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Sheared off bleed bolt... :(

voney

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Hey Guys,

I just replaced my front shockers in my vp and decided to do the brake pads at the same time.

After spending 2 1/2 evenings trying to get the bastard ball joints to come loose and another 1 1/2 putting everything back together I was on my last bolt, specifically the bleed bolt on the drivers side, when the bastard decided to shear off on the last turn.

Now I'm left with half the bolt in the caliper and the other half in my hand, and silly me, i now need to bleed the goddamned brakes properly because I forgot to do it before (the bleed screw was out so i could push the piston back in) and they're virtually nonexistant now.

Anyway I was hoping some kind soul has a spare bleed bolt they are willing to give me, and maybe an even kinder soul has one of those drill bits you use to pull out sheared bolts with that they'll lend me?

If you live in Sydney I'm happy to share a 6 pack with you while i fix it...

Cheers,

Voney
 

vp_commo

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when you do the shocks take the whole arm out, take the arm t a shop and get old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in, a lot better job, can do it in a morning.

Just go to the wreckers and buy a caliper for $20.00 if you dont have any luck.

Dan
 

v6lux

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A similar thing happened to me trying to bleed the brakes on my father,s VN. Some highly skilled Licensed Mechanic he used to take the car to, did the bleed nut too tight (probably with a rattle gun).

I did happen to get the whole bleed nut out, but as it came out, the distorted and bulged end inside destroyed every bit of thread in the caliper!

When you do these things up after bleeding, you don't need to be Superman or Create future expensive work for yourself or your mechanic mates!

If you do have to replace the caliper with a used one from a wrecker, take a ring spaner with you to undo the bleed nut to be sure your not stuck with the same thing again!
 

v6lux

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how come you undid the bleed screw to push the piston back? just get a g-clamp and compress the piston, then you don't need to bleed afterwards
If you are asking me, it was after a rebuuild of the Master Cylinder!

Besides, brake fluid should be flushed every couple of years, probably earlier if you go by the book.
 

voney

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how come you undid the bleed screw to push the piston back? just get a g-clamp and compress the piston, then you don't need to bleed afterwards
I don't know about your brakes, but mine simply will not move back in more than a mil or two without the bleed screw out, and that is using a G-Clamp.


So if i replace the caliper... is it hard? Should i do the lines at the same time?

I have NFi how I should do it.
 

vp_commo

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when peep on here recommend a g clamp I think they should mention a g clamp with a flat plate of steel
so your pushing the cylinder in at an even angle/pressure.

Have a look at a brake cylinder tool at supercheap or even buy one and you will get the idea.
Your cylinder should move back as the fluid will float back into the resovior (if you replace the whole caliper the fluid will all run out anyway).
First replaced the caliper, push the cylinder back ..properly (if uneven a truck wont push it back, attached to the lines or not).
fit together, then bleed each line, you might need to buy a manual.

from memory it is bleed back left, back right, front left , front right, in that order, I could be wrong.
Remember stuffing round with brakes is serious stuff and if you don't do it 100% correct you will have to redo it again.


replacing a caliper is just a matter of undoing the bolts and the fluid line- bolt on bolt off, once you put the caliper on there will be air in the lines and you will have to refill the lines systematically by the manual (in the right order, you have to bleed every caliper on the car).
You can bleed the calipers when fully assembled, so assemble first.

Its a pity your not local I would offer you a hand, somone who has done it before can really help.

you need a manual.

also by plate of steel I mean lay a plate of steel on the top of the cylinder then clamp the g clamp over that, that way the clamp applies even pressure.get it?

Dan
 
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wortus

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you'd probably have to buy a major service kit for the caliper to get a new bleed screw or try repco they may have the right one seperately or just get a whole caliper from a wrecker but I'd be rebuilding that as you don't know how long it has been off the car and any brake fluid exposed to air will suck in heaps moisture and maybe corrode the internals. There pretty easy to rebuild.
The tool you need to remove the broken bleed screw is called an easy out and you can get them from Blackwoods or some auto shops may have a kit, you also need the T handle though a shifter can do the job.
The brake piston tool from super cheap is better than a G clamp on a VN/VP as you need to push the piston in squarely and a G clamp would need to clamp down on the hose connection to do that so you'd need a big clamp and a bit of metal to protect that as well. Check the master cylinder fluid level if it's full take some out first.
 

neet_wagon

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Grow some muscles and you don't even need a g-clamp. And yes my brakes work 100% fine.
 

sik_dose

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I did this bleeding brakes last year, so instead of fixing i upgraded, i baught two 290mm discs and two 290mm calipers off a VP and new QFM pads. chucked em all in and its been really good to this day. I still cant get my hands on a 1" master cylinder and booster. their next on the list.
 
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