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Discussion in 'The Pub' started by losh1971, Oct 30, 2019.
I like the big pin that gets slotted through as an extra safety feature.
Another big cost in sheds I found was electrical work. Bigger the shed the more lights and power points needed.
A lot of wiring i can run myself and mounting power points and lights same, then have the electrician connect things up.
Slight problem is i no longer have an account with the electrical wholesalers.
Considering the option of going a pit again. If I go with pit the savings are about $7 - $8k. Having a pit means i can go a smaller shed, with less wall height and a lower pitch roof.
A pit would mean i could go 10.5m x 9m x 3m, with a standard 11deg roof. Definitely something I need to consider.
A hoist would mean 12m x 9m x 3.6m with a minimum 17deg roof.
If given the option I would have gone for a pit not only for the money saved but I would have felt safer. Perhaps hoists are bullet prove but it would always been on my mind that it could fail. I think you have made a good choice.
Pits are definately the best and cheapest options.....Hoists are in constant need of maintenance to ensure they don't fail....A pit, you dig the hole, concrete it, place a plate over it and forget about it, until you need to use it
I've been using hoists for years and good hoists need bugger all maitence. A pit is more of a saftey concern due to carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide build up in the pit.
Have you thought about doing a shed with an outdoor extension to house the hoist? So all your tools stay locked up and just the hoist is outdoors. This is how alot of workshops are set up. One I used to work at has 4 hoists inside then one out the back under cover.
The carbon monoxide is only really an issue if you have the car running while you're in the pit. I have only done it once in my current shed and never again. I knew I needed to get out when I started feeling faint or I wouldn't be here now writing this.
I have been doing some more sums and working out ways I can save. I am thinking I'd still like a pit, possibly but I still want to have the option of a hoist. Therefore I am still thinking to build the shed wall and roof pitch to accommodate one down the track, rather than wish I'd allowed for it and then have the hassle of making the shed taller.
I've actually just got back from time up the country house and had a quote in my inbox $1600 off the internet price, which I wasn't expecting. He gave me some elevations too which means I can go a 9 x 12 and still be able to install a hoist at some point. Probably look at just doing piers and pour a slab later. I can pour the slab in three sections if I need too and if do it in three sections I could probably do it myself with some help. I won't mix my own again though too much mucking around.
Every 10 years, if the hoist has cables, they MUST be replaced...A snapped cable can have wonderful consequences
I have seen hoists, where the locking latch, constantly catches, once released, causing the ramp to lean to one side or corner when lowering.
Seen cable hoists that fail to lock on the upper most locking point...
I have seen hydraulic hoists, where the they fail to lift, or lower...(Got one at work that is 2 years old and has been out of action for 3 months, due to these sorts of failures).
Been using hoists for a couple of decades and seen these sorts of issues
A pit.....No maintenance and more suited to a home application situation
Yes hoists need maitence obviously! but good hoists will work for 20 years and need one set of cables. Plus pits are restrictive.
Just for reference, jump on the Tufflift site, all their models have a breakdown of height width etc. With most 3.6-3.8 Will do most clean floor hoists so you should be pretty sweet even with eve height as you can't go higher than that top bar anyway. With sizing wise bigger is always better, but if you can't go bigger at least think about how you're going to use it, make the most of the space you can afford, as layout with the same/similar space can change workability so much. Mate is doing a big 18x24 shed early next year, I think he's budgeted about 100k for it and it's not overly fancy for that, but he spent a lot of time working on layout to make the most of the space he had to play with. Throw some pics up when you do, love some shed porn haha
Not my shed
I've watched that build through facebook haha.
He has a number of builds going on.
I have used a heap of hoists over the years and I have mentioned the issues I have struck with them.....It's upto LOSH 1971 to decide whether he wishes to accept my advise or ignore it. I've just put it out there for his consideration
What would you class as a good hoist? The one at work, is a 2 year old $10,000 hydraulic hoist, that is operated remotely....In those 2 years the thing has been out of action for 3 months due to various component failures....1 even caused the hoist to stay up in the air, with a customers car on it
And I did post, hoists require maintence, where as pits don't.....Perhaps have a re-read of my posting before replying. Just to help (Pits are definately the best and cheapest options .....Hoists are in constant need of maintenance to ensure they don't fail.)
Yes pits maybe restrictive, but it depends on what you are doing.....Doing motor/transmission work, ideal.....Depending on the front or rear end work needing doing, it can be restrictive, but it can be managed.
I have a pit now and it's pretty good. The advantages are engine and trans removal is really easy, no lying on your back. They also take up less space. I am seriously considering just building another pit. I find it's so quick to drive over and jump underneath for a quick look.
Disadvantages would be using the ladder and not taking down enough tools. Also pits are not allowed, in home sheds anyway. Just means that you need to have the shed signed off before you concrete that part of the shed, as you need to dig the hole afterwards but before concrete is poured.
I also need to consider how much i will use a hoist. As it is i check the underneath of the ute once a fortnight.
I'm still undecided but I found out i have wall height restrictions, which means i need to drop back to 3.3m and not the planned 3.6m. It should still fit a hoist if i go 22deg roof as the cavity will give me enough clearance, I'm pretty sure. I am thinking I will build the shed with the aim of keeping my options open. If I do that and i feel i want one then it's just a matter of installing one.
I did make a few mistakes with my current pit. I sat it too close to the roller door. Which means I have to have the ute 500mm past the roller door or i can't climb in. I also need to work out things to stand on for different height vehicles. The ute is not bad but my old Jeep required a milk crate or two if i was removing the trans or transfer case.
If I was going to go hoist I would lay the footing for the hoist when doing the slab so you don't need outrigger braces which are required for 100mm slabs.
Good hoist brands that I have experience with are Molnar, Bendpak, Bishammon and Powerex. The Powerex hoists used to be made in Korea by Bishammon but are now made in China. I'm not sure what my work has the Korean ones or Chinese but all 7 of the Powerex hoists still work fine after 15 years I think half have had cables done and they all need carrige bushes now. Our hoist guy has got us on to Bishammon and they seem to be very good. We have through out the whole company four 4 post hoists 3 scissor wheel alignment hoists 6 scissor service hoists 21 two post hoists and we had even more but sold off some shops. So I've seen my fair share of hoists over the years I also owned two hoists for a while.
Plan is to pour some extra thick strips probably 500mm wide and an extra 200-300mm deep and drop a couple of reo bars in the thicker part. Bit like they do in a strip footing but not as deep.
When I had to tie into a 1960s 100mm slab we checked the outrigger length so we went 1200x1000 350mm deep. We used two sheets of mesh and tied into the top sheet scabbled the cuts. This was overkill but matched imo the outriggers the 350 deep was for extra weight and leverage plus we could use 250 anchors which are beter imo again, most manufacturers recomend 180 or 200mm anchors if you have the slab to use. Obviously if you are on a 150mm slab you will be restricted to 140mm anchors which I personaly would avoid a situation where you have 10mm of concrete before dirt on a hole. I worked in metal fab for 1 year at a family freinds workshop and I drilled thousands of holes intsalling metal to concrete and you want a good buffer.
If i do buy a hoist i will be looking at a Tuflift one. They are Chinese but have a good rep these days and for occasional use are very well up to the task. What i would like is both pit and hoist. I like the the idea of being able to sit on a wheely stool to work on my brakes instead of sitting on a mat or a wheel, with the floor jack rasing the vehicle. Like I said though keeping my options open but pit will probably be first.
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