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Should a Varajet choke close automatically without pushing gas pedal?

sundaydriver

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Varajet 2 on an '83VH.

Basically, when the engine/choke cools down, it can't close because the teeth on that plate stops it from lowering. Of course it can open OK, because the plate moves up and the screw just slides down the teeth.
Only way for it to close is if I pump the gas, which take the pressure of that screw and lets the lever drop (to where it is in the picture, with the screw resting on the top tooth)

My questions is - is this normal? You just have to pump the gas before starting carb cars, so the choke closes?
Or is something not working right here and it should be able to close on it's own?

carbLever.jpeg
 

gtrboyy

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Choke has bi-metal spring it's either not working or choke needs to be reset in correct position.
 

whats up

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Varajet 2 on an '83VH.

Basically, when the engine/choke cools down, it can't close because the teeth on that plate stops it from lowering. Of course it can open OK, because the plate moves up and the screw just slides down the teeth.
Only way for it to close is if I pump the gas, which take the pressure of that screw and lets the lever drop (to where it is in the picture, with the screw resting on the top tooth)

My questions is - is this normal? You just have to pump the gas before starting carb cars, so the choke closes?
Or is something not working right here and it should be able to close on it's own?

View attachment 189470
Yes you need to pump the accellerator pedal at least once to allow the lever to close choke.
Also need to make sure the bi metal spring is engaged and the correct setting is made by loosening the 3 screws on the side and lining up the marks.
 
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Rob Hawkins 1991

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I have that same problem, where I have to pump the throttle to close off the choke, on my 82 vh sl
 

Silverbird

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From memory of the set up on my VK 3.3 Varajet II, the position of the choke coil is marked lean to rich. The adjustment can be made by loosening the three screws around the coil and turning the coil body to the right position (as stated above). From memory it was VERY touchy. The coil is heat sensitive - fed from the ignition to begin heating and stopping the butterfly from choking a warm engine. If it wasn't set properly, you would have no choking from cold and starting difficulties. With your engine stone cold, the butterfly should snap closed when you depress the accellerator once, FULLY to the floor before starting the engine. Does the engine start - GOOD!

Now the hard part is - does it return back to the correct position when the car is warm. Pull off the air cleaner and have a look - if you press the accellerator gently, the butterfly will release but should NOT close fully. Mark the current position of the coil BEFORE you move it - you may have to put it back!

Trial and error is the trick. Test the coil is actually working by turning on your ignition (cold engine) without starting the car. The coil should heat up in a minute or two and coil should be retracting so to prevent the butterfly from closing. If you want to start the car, pull the cam back and close the butterfly manually so it stays there before turning the key. When the car starts, revs will be high - so give it a minute or two and tap the accelerator to release the cam.

Try different coil positions but remember to mark the original position first!
 
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