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... pointless thread, content deleted by OP.

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holdendude

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Your best bet would to put in a piece of sheet metal in, for the time it would take to pound/bog/hi-fill it would be quicker.
 

ari666

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ugh.

ok to start with they use 0.8mm steel, but you wont be able to get that. 1mm will be fine. the wheel arches are 1.2mm but you shouldnt need to replace any of that, just oxy and hammer out that RHS wheelarch dent. itll take time, but it can be done.

your best bet is to start drawing circles around the holes you wanna keep and crossing the holes you wanna weld up. smoothing properley will take AGGGES, so no need to rush. if you rush, youll be sorry later down the line. things to consider are:
1. the wiring. where is it gonna run, how are you gonna run it, how are you gonna secure it (VSB4 states all wiring needs to be secured at 600mm and protected against rubbing) zip ties are great, but they will require holes to feed through, so youll need to drill them before you paint so they are sealed. you gonna add any relays for horns, lights, thermo fans etc? where are they gonna be, how are they gonna run?
2. throttle cable, kickdown (if it needs it) fuel hose, carbon can, vapour hose, etc
3. wipers
4. overflow and wiper/washer bottles. if you are gonna change these, best source the new ones first, then fit/mount them properley, mark their location, then remove again ready for paint.
5. headlight wiring SO IMPORTANT. the uuuugliest bit of VK/H bays is the fact that fkn wiring is totally visible. re run all that ****.

thats all i can think of of the top of my head. good to remember also, on the base of the strut towers is seam sealer. DO NOT give in to temptation and remove this and replace with bog, unless you never wanna take a fast corner. bog will crack and lift. best bet is to take your time with a razor blade and smooth the glue as best as you can, or cover over it with sikaflex. you can get sikaflex nice and smooth using a sponge soaked in dishwashing liquid.

prepping for paint means running over the whole bay with a wire wheel, cover with deoxidine, sand it back with 120 grit, weld up the AC holes in the firewall, knock out any little dents, bog over most of the seams, bog over spotwelds. hi-fill, then more hi-fill, then more hi fill, wet sand with 400, pin hole filler any spots you missed (there WILL be places that need fixing) hi fill again, wet sand with 800 then paint.

the whole process should take around 40 hours. if you do it properley. but that doesnt include the drying time of the hi-fill. you really need to give it heaps of time to go-off, otherwise the heat of the engine bay may cause it to craze later on.

heres one we started earlier:
VH0192.jpg


please note, sabbath rushed this one. there are spots we shouldve spent a lot more time on.
 

Kiddo

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Sounds like a fun job....
 

ari666

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the chassis towers flex from cornering, it has nothing to do with the engine. dunno what that guy was on about. the reason i say dont bog it is cos' bog doesnt have any flex. when that tower moves around a hard corner the bog will just lift. and it you think they dont flex, then why the fk would people buy strut tower braces? sikaflex, even tho its rock hard, still has some flex in it. so it wont crack and lift. but whatevs man, there is another thread on here about seam sealer, have a read of that.

i think 1.8 is too thick personally. its a bitch to bend, but it depends on what you want it for i guess. if youre just cutting circles to fill flat gaps, then its fine. but if you wanna bend it, look for some 1mm.
 

Reaper

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Ok so turns out my employer can only get somewhere as thin as 1.8mm. Is this too much or will it be acceptable?

Any sheetmetal company should be able to supply 1mm easily.

Reaper
 
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