So i'm building another box

[acarmody]

I got a bit bored so I Tried to design a sub box for you. Keep in mind I'm not an expert by any means.
Using 3/4" MDF. With dimensions from specs I posted. Nothing in this diagram is to scale, all hand drawn in Paint, bloody text writing wasn't working for me so writing is dodgy. I worked with sides being 16.5" x 13.5", top/bottom being 16.5" x 16.5", and front/back being 16.5" x 12" obviously front being 1.5" shorter for port. Port runs top to bottom and does a 90 degree bend at the back. Start with bottom lying on bench, stand sides on either side so that sides are on bench (not sitting on bottom), nail/screw/glue together, then do same for top. Front and back go into the gap. I only did that way so that the front and back can be heavily screwed together from all sides.

Sorry about small picture.

EDIT: Actually on second thought, assemble all pieces except the top, then assemble the port walls in the box , THEN add the top. How could I forget the port walls, tired I guess.

 

[Fun_Bucket]

Hey thanks for the trouble you went you. I'm a little confused though about the port, you said it does a 90 degree bend? is that design as i look at it now rear firing? looking at the picture theres a slot port?or is that just a rough marking of where to put the port? And is there any advantage to using a slot port, compared to a tubular port? If i know what type of port, and what size to use, i can have all the sides, top ect cut to size at bunnings, then just assemble them at home..With the dimesnsions you've posted, does that allow for any overhang on the edges, because that's the mistake i made the first time, and it took me forever to figure it out/

 

[acarmody]

The port is up against the side of the box as this creates the least work. Uses the side of the box as one of the ports side walls. Yes its a slot port, easiest to make IMO, you could make a round port but then you will need a whole new set of dimensions and a proper round port cone, a lot of work if you ask me. A port is a port IMO. As for the 90 degree bend, the port is longer than the box, so it goes from the front of the box to the back and then along the back wall some more.

Yeah the pictures are had to understand, I made them during the ad breaks of some cop show on TV, I love watching people get caught for stupid stuff.

 

[Fun_Bucket]

Ok so with a slot port, sorry once i get it it wil all make sense and i will feel like a dick, always thought a slot port, was just a slot out of the box, but what your saying is, the slot runs from the front of the box(where the sub is positioned, and then to the back of the box, then right angles along the back wall? So to make a slot port, do i have to insert another wall inside the box, against the inside wall, thus making a rectangular port. I think i've confused myself even more now lol

 

[acarmody]

Yep I think we are on the same page here, yes the port requires a wall, running along that line I put on the top view in my drawing, the one that has the 1.5" marking, that is the width of the port. The 'wall' of the port is always 1.5" away from the side of the box in this case.

A slot port is bassically a corridor of sorts, it allows the sound to resonate at certain frequencies (above the tuning frequencies, in this case 33hz), at least I think this is right. If you just put a hole in the box you would basically have a free-air sub.

 

[acarmody]

It will be easier with this photo I found. This is a well constructured ported box. These guys have gon for a double layer of MDF on the front of the box, as well as shaping the bend on the port so its less restrictive to air-flow.

 

[acarmody]

Check out this dude, building a MASSIVE box for a 15" Kicker L7 (thats why the sub cutout is square), yours won't be anywhere as big as this, but the basics are the same. Strictly European Autosport - View topic - 15" L7, ported box tuned to 30hz build yo!

 

[Fun_Bucket]

It will be easier with this photo I found. This is a well constructured ported box. These guys have gon for a double layer of MDF on the front of the box, as well as shaping the bend on the port so its less restrictive to air-flow.

Wow that looks really good, and really complicated!! I would have though it would just be easier to use a tubular port.How do they secure those extra sections of MDF in place that form the port wall? I'm guessing they're just glued into place in that first picture, but what about when the box is all together.

 

[VZ-Rob]

........Also, does anyone know somwhere i can buy a port from?.....with a flange, i'd like one that just screw in and mounts flush to the box.

JayCar has about a dozen different sizes with flanges $5 - $10

 

[Tasmaniak]

here is a big one for you....from yours truly...Dual 18s. So, you can't see the bracing that went inside the box...there was a lot of it and you also can't see the vents that are underneath... But to give you a general overall impression of sixe, thats me on top of the box. I'm 6'2" and weigh over 110kg. I'm a man mountain and I can fit inside this box comfortably. It ended up in the rear end of a GMC Yukon.