Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

soft/low brake pedal

pete30nz

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Messages
526
Reaction score
96
Points
28
Age
43
Location
Christchurch, NewZealand
Members Ride
1994 Vr berlina 3.8 v6 , 1996 VS executive 3.8 v6
Is that the vt master cylinder, with the vt reservoir?
I thought l have read somewhere that the reservoir had to be changed to a ford one?
Yes it is the vt/VX master and res.
What pipes do you mean?
I'll have to do this tomorrow :)
 

Lex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
5,877
Reaction score
5,235
Points
113
Location
Geelong Victoria
Members Ride
VT Executive S1 V6 6 speed Auto Wagon
Check this thread out. stick 3 pointed it out to you back in april.
Check out what marfovr says in post 1.
 

pete30nz

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Messages
526
Reaction score
96
Points
28
Age
43
Location
Christchurch, NewZealand
Members Ride
1994 Vr berlina 3.8 v6 , 1996 VS executive 3.8 v6

Lex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
5,877
Reaction score
5,235
Points
113
Location
Geelong Victoria
Members Ride
VT Executive S1 V6 6 speed Auto Wagon
This is what markovr said. I've underlined what l think is relative. You probably have already done it?

vt/x booster and master cylinder modified to fit to a vb through to a vs for sale...210 + post for everything .It will bolt up with no extra parts needed on a s2 vp / vr /vs but you will need line adapters for the previous models since the flares on the brake pipes are different.
Heres a picture of the setup on my vp http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=20661&d=1150621024
and on my vr http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=1062&d=1104659672
The vr has had this setup (with vt front discs and calipers as well)for 2 years with no problems
 

vc commodore

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2014
Messages
10,720
Reaction score
12,610
Points
113
Location
Like the Leyland Brothers
Members Ride
VC, VH and VY
I did find a weep of fluid coming from one end of the master resivoir. After my test drive tonight
Video:


As Lex mentioned, you will have to fix the fluid leak.....The fluid leak will be allowing air to enter the system, causing the low brake pedal you are experiencing..

The pipes that are being mentioned are the brake lines....The flare on the end of the brake lines, where it goes into the master cylinder are different between commodore models.....I can't find your model commodore compared to the model commodore master cylinder you are using, but having the incorrect flare on the end of your brake line won't allow the brake line to seal properly and create a leak and a low brake pedal
 

Immortality

Can't live without smoky bacon!
Staff member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
22,620
Reaction score
20,504
Points
113
Location
Sth Auck, NZ
Members Ride
HSV VS Senator, VX Calais II L67
This is what the guys are talking about. The earlier models use a double flare brake line fitting, the later models use the bubble flare.
zb0ePawgB74jmB3uRlH-tr5bKrv3OW95Ds76ZCAVKAFzqYOVBW7oQWGH9MtFX4M1Nex08xK_uiblyhquxnN9V4nhA3rBGDAnpnDQDugN6KqaPoVBeYTYKock3DBLPtIHt2T1hA4xiXWcXudaR5uJoqTdv19n4LUXwsp9

You either need an adaptor or cut and re-flare the brake lines.
 
Last edited:

Vin999

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2019
Messages
827
Reaction score
205
Points
43
Location
SA
Members Ride
VSedanS
They made quite an improvement on my ute pulling up compared to the original rubber lines. I have fitted them on my old Jeep so already knew they were going to help on the ute. It was a no brainer for me. Especially with the ease of fitment and cost compared to a big brake kit. Obviously they don't compare to twin pistons but still worthwhile.
Your original rubber lines would have been 26 years old, expanded internally, replacing with new factory rubber lines would do the same thing as using steel and a no brainer, cost effective and just as safe.

Bear in mind you would’ve bled your brakes when installing braided lines, so that’s where your brakes actually worked properly to their potential, from the bleed and any possible new pad change rather than saying just steel lines as ....new rubber lines would have felt the same as steel when new.

After all you just have a simple production vehicle with adequate brakes, not a race car with huge big brakes dealing with large brake forces/heat and high speeds on a regular basis where even new rubber wouldn’t cut the mustard let alone save your life.

There is no way your brakes pulled up/worked better (without even talking about abs or water moisture in brake fluid) just because of saying of using steel lines instead of new rubber ones. It’s an ASSumption on feel when you press the pedal like a booster rather than mechanical workings.

Flexible steel Braided lines are used to prevent air bubbles forming with expansion/heat. Old rubber lines soften expand and contract under pressure/heat coupled with the old brake fluid breaking down and create tiny air bubbles and in turn relate to a soft pedal hence why people think using braided lines gives you better brakes. It’s just a feeling on your sole of foot... not that your brakes got better than they can be even if you replace every component brand new.

If you bought a new factory car and then you replace the rubber lines with steel the same day you got it from the dealer, the brakes are not going to magically work better after.
Do a simple brake pedal movement measurement or any brake skid test and the true answer is obvious.
 

Vin999

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2019
Messages
827
Reaction score
205
Points
43
Location
SA
Members Ride
VSedanS
The pipes that go into the master cylinder that have fluid on them,
Lex, pete is getting confused, he is talking about the seal leak at the back of plastic reservoir container Not the 2 lines.
He got new lines made up due to breaking old ones. In the video the 2 lines are not leaking.
 
Top