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Solution to Sticky fuel/temp guages

gtrboyy

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Weird dash worked the 2 times took it out to re-solder then overnight not work again.

Then other week out of nowhere temp gauge starts working untill today after having car up jack stands.

Thought I'd seen it all but now working on one these as an old car is different experience o_O
 

gtrboyy

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Man are these things weird.

Tried to suss out for certain if temp sender or temp gauge fubar'd on vp.

Thought try to earth out green temp wire properly after taking alternator off...long wire from strut top bolt other end jammed into temp sender plug.

Turn on reds as expected stayed on cold...figured temp guage or cluster issue.

10 secs later needle on gauge flickered then crashed itself up against speedo :mad:
 

gtrboyy

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Update on temp gauge....it works properly now!!!

Turns out needle probably not worked in years untill I bought it...earthing sender wire & leavingh it earthed did the trick BUT was not expecting needle to fling itself to other side getting stuck near speedo & another cluster out just to free it grr.

Soldering job on 3 pins worked as fuel gauge work properly so it had me stumped for a while.
 

07GTS

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earthing out the sender wires on the VN-VS (temp or fuel) is a good way of killing the gauge
 

gtrboyy

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It's ok to briefly test gauge..figured it was stuffed anyway so wasn't bothered.

I'd still like rev tacho dash but cbf'd now poxy dash is working well.
 

XC-Buzzard

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Hi all - given the number of people with the same problem, I had a go at fixing this today, and it worked, so here is a quick rundown:

The problem as pointed out in a previous thread is the 3-pin 5-volt voltage regulator on the circuit board inside the cluster - dry joints on the 3 pins. This is why it sometimes works when you bash the dash - I am so fully sick of bashing :b: so checked with a local instrument repairer, he confirmed that in most cases the voltage regulator itself is OK, its just the dry solder joints...

This explanation ( without turning into a mini-Haynes manual) assumes a couple of things:

A - you are able to use a fine-point soldering iron ( NOT a chisel-point monster..), and

B. - You are able to get the instrument cluster out yourself.

OK, if you have the cluster on the workbench, here goes:

1. Remove the front clear panel -you need a #10 'torx' head driver to undo the 4 x 'torx' screws along the bottom rear of the cluster - then unclip the top 2 clips and remove the clear front plastic cover;

2. Undo all the small screws near the needles, and remove the black guage 'screens' from the cluster - 1 each for fuel, speed, temp. You will also need to pull each needle from its pin - this is fine, just be careful.

3. Once these are off, you will see the innner workings of your cluster (WOW) it looks pretty simple heh ?. On the LH side, directly above the 'fuel' gauge, there is a small circuit board. You first need to remove the 2 x small screws that hold the clear plastic cover over the guage;

4. Once this plastic cover is removed, you can access the circuit board. Remove the bits of sticky gluey crap that holds the board in place ( I just used a small screwdriver), remove the large connector plug at the top of the cluster, and then gently lever the circuit board from its mounting points.

5. So far so good - once the board is removed, you can re-solder the 3 pins on the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator itself is the small black rectangular fitting, that is fitted inside a heat-sink, and sits on the left-hand side of the circuit board. It has 3 pins on the bottom. When you turn the circuit board over, you can see where these 3 pins are soldered to the board from the factory. Mine were obviously dry - yours may not be, but solder them CAREFULLY with a fine-point iron and some good-quality FINE solder (NOT plumbers solder - I think that is pretty clear :thumbsup: )

When you have done this, then assembly is reverse order of disassembly. Take your time to do it properly, I knocked this whole job over this afternoon in less than 1 hour.

Sorry for the long-winded thread, but this problem has shat me off for years, so I guess a few others may be able to fix up there own guages ( I was quoted $150 if dash in car, $80 if dash delivered ) for what is about 5 minutes worth of soldering.

My guages now work FINE - YAY !!!! :D :D :D

If anyone needs some further explanation, just post a reply and I will check for further questions whatever over the next few days/weeks. This procedure should also be fully applicable to VP dashes, and I would assume any dash cluster for VN-VP. Not sure on later models.

regards all, and good luck with it :thumbsup:
Dave
Talking about sticky Temp n Fuel gauges , which I have , but I also have a quirky Tachometer, it seems to have a current problem , when I start the car up in the day time , not requiring head lights (specifically high beam ) or AC IT works fine , most , of the time , but turn on the AC it drops dead to the bottom, also at night when using high beam.. when switching high beam off , it will resume play.. Sometimes in the day when it's not working , I'll give the High beam a quick flick on and off , and it will kick it back into action.. also when indicators are flashing , the Tachometer needle will jump up and down in unison, like a well corriographed ballet.. what is going on do you think guys ?
 

MikeC

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I'd start by looking at the electrical earths.
 

MikeC

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I my 5 liter VQ manual there are 13 earths. For starters I'd check and clean the following earths:
-the main battery earth
-the earth on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head
-the generator mount
-the earth on the windscreen wiper motor
-the steering column earth
-the ABS mount
-the radio earth on the passenger side bonnet hinge
-the earth in the boot on the drivers side

Good luck, I know from my VQ and other vehicles that corroded earths cause a lot of problems with old cars. Do any of the above that you can find and see if things improve.
 

MikeC

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Might be a good idea to start a new thread on your problem, I don't know how many current forum members read the stickys.
 
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