[SOLVED] EFE (early fuel exaporation) Thermal vacuum switch/valve broken

[sundaydriver]

Happy 'Staya Day!

So was replacing some vacuum hoses and managed to snap both barbs and the thread off the Early Fuel Evap (EVE) Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) - or TVV (Valve). Yay!
Come to find, they are not an easy part to source.

Found a few similar looking parts online, from the US, but don't know enough about them to know if they'd do the job - plus they don't give you the thread measurements, so not sure they'd fit! Here's a few: One - Two - Three - Four - Five (I figure I could just blank one port on the triple trees... Number one looks most like the original - it's the only one with that little square port under the barbs - not sure what it's for/does?)

Barring that. Would it run just as well in I blanked off the EVE and/or EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ports completely - like this bloke did - with a couple brass plus?

I imagine getting rid of EGR is unnecessary if unavoidable - save the planet - but will it work better if both EVE/EGR are on, or have no effect if EFE is off and EGR is on?... or both are off?
Whats the effect on fuel efficiency and emissions?

From what I can tell, based on the attached vacuum diagram from @vkberlina web page (I can't seem to link directly to it), It would just be a case of blanking the port on the block and capping the exhaust heat valve actuator (no idea how it works?), and just cap it's sport on the manifold triple tree (looking at the yellow hoses on the diagram.)
And for the EGR (blue hoses), it's be similar process - blank the block port, the carby port/barb, and the EGR valve on the right of the carby (no idea how this works either...)

Thanks for any help team!

 

[the_boozer]

if you don't have to go for a rwc block off the vacuum supply to the efe switch and forget about it I haven't seen the efe stuff working on any commodore this century.
The green efe vac switch allows vacuum to pass thru it until the motor makes temp the vac switches you linked to all seam to allow vac after the motor has made temp.

 

[sundaydriver]

The green efe vac switch allows vacuum to pass thru it until the motor makes temp the vac switches you linked to all seam to allow vac after the motor has made temp.

Cheers mate - good to know re: those after market switches.

 

[sundaydriver]

So here's the result!
Managed to get the other half of the EFE switch out of the block and blanked it off with a $10 (1/2 inch) brass bold from supercheap auto.
Then just got a back of those rubber end caps and capped off the articulate and the empty bard on the inlet manifold vacuum tree.

 

[the_boozer]

why did you bother to bung the hole the remainder of the old switch was doing that. Whats the cap on the end of the efe actuator doing? Piss off the standard exhaust manifold and put some extractors on it. You could of painted the rocker cover If you were worried about neatness.
Enjoy driving it.

 

[sundaydriver]

why did you bother to bung the hole the remainder of the old switch was doing that. Whats the cap on the end of the efe actuator doing? Piss off the standard exhaust manifold and put some extractors on it. You could of painted the rocker cover If you were worried about neatness.
Enjoy driving it.

When the switch tree snapped off, it left a hole where the rod was. As I didn't know how it was built/work really, I assumed that hole went all the way through and would be a vacuum leak/spew out coolant when running. After taking it out, realised that was not the case, but wasn't going to put it back in - hence the plug. Learning as I go here.
Trying to keep it close to original, so extractors, webber etc. are out... for now.
Rocker will probably get a paint when/if I replace the head gasket (it's OK now though - so that's a project for another time).
It's still not running quite right - getting a lurch/hesitation/power waver (it hard to explain) when going below 20Kms - just with a steady low revs. It's not a vacuum leak, so I am guessing its the card (which still needs a tune).