So I picked up a 304 engine to re-build last week , have previously got a starr manifold. I do love that standard look = but only if I can meet my aim/ goals/ targets. Target 450/500 crank hp = more obviously better = but yeah . Predominantly street / weekend car and therefore torque . Aim going in a vs series i maloo ( probably stay auto ) , happy to go 3.7 diff gears if see revs / power to 6k or 6.3k = and eventually *true trac. Auto already re- built to take 600hp. Obviously a stall Defent aim is for the cost per performance for me = roller cam = decent head work or manage to pick up alloy heads . All the normal oil mods exctra . Thermo fans , davis craig electric water pump = hopefully!! So !!!! My big question = mods to a starr manifold = opening runners / port matching , any other mods to help performance/ meet my target. IS IT POSSIBLE OR AM I FLOGGING A DEAD HORSE. EG sell starr and go torque power. Which leads to another 2 questions Do they do an elbow = so can run a standardish airbox Or can a hi rise dual plane with everything fit under a 2" reverse cowl?
Mixed thoughts tbh. Never had a starr but always wanted one as would be cool for a 'sleeper' type look,as far as I know starr airbox are long gone NLA...not even sure if whoever has rights to do starr manifolds cbf'd doing them just like trickshift manifolds...mace airbox or make your own larger version,stock airbox restrictive + 90'ish mm inlet pipe. If lower expectations of the starr manifold to 400hp honestly think you can build street monster fun enough to scare you & passengers. Don't really need to go crazy on heads etc as long as choose the right set of matching parts.
It's a stock intake with a better throttle neck. With that in mind you could look at extrude honing, some people do this in conjunction with putting a rod in front of the no. 5 runner. That said I think you'll struggle to get 600hp out of most N/A 5L and stroked builds, especially with that kind of setup. Only other thing is do your research on tuners, seems to be a large contributing factor to 5L builds moreso than other engines for some reason. Probably just for the lack of Delco support.
Didn't even know starr did an airbox. Always figured I'd be making my own airbox especially as figured try and include a vs hsv / ss otr intake as well as feeding from behind the headlight. Happy to experiment with starr if I can come close to my target = but then again if big low down toque = streetcar = but just wanted this to rev abit.
I have starr Airbox too. Very hard to come across. I’ll use it someday lol Biggest issue with bananas is heat imo. But stock look is best unless it’s twin throttles for me.
the starr 90mm TB will gain slight high power range but loose in the low mid torque, 70mm TB mild hydraulic roller cam, small port job/matching is better suited for low mid range torque but probably has a limit around 400hp. As RJK mentioned a good tuner and engine/head builder does help combo with the 5L, speak to both.
Pretty sure I read awhile ago owners of the starr were stopping manufacturing. Didn't even know there was a starr airbox so always figured if I use it would be making my own airbox . Really like the trickshift one but I think owner has health issues and not making anymore. Rod in front of #5 runner ? Yeah not aiming for 600 , while 500-530 would be nice, yeah 450 - 480 is aim but as gtrboyy said 400 with a heap of toque in vs ute will be pretty entertaining. Tuners= there's a good one I believe near me but doesn't do delco = so would be more expensive = haltec and because auto another computer for it. I believe Joe at ace performance tuning is pretty good. Nice to know = already have the 70mm TB on it. But really would love to crack mid to high 400s. Will definitely be going 355 over 304 ( it is now ) = so low down toque = ( for what I'm used to in this will already be stepping up). For info =help me with decisions= can anyone tell me = torque power hi- rise dual plane and throttle body and Air cleaner fit under a 2" reverse cowl ?
I think it was already mentioned, the banana's manifold is an oven, it's a huge alloy heat sink with the plenum in the worst possible spot and you can extrude hone it but you can't change the runner length. It's a good manifold if you want the stock look but I think there are better options if you want to make power. I don't think you'll have an issue getting that combo under a 2" cowl. I believe one of the guys on the Commodore Plus forum has that combo under a stock hood with a drop base filter.
Yeah, I believe I have read where you say it is. And hence my dealimer = ( spelling shxt) = stock = less or modified = more. Nice to know = don't mind the look of either the vn cowl or a 2" reverse cowl . Just not a fan of going too big eg 4" cowl.
Can keep it all under bonnet if you want...many ways to do it like come single,redline single,t/p dual or ever edelbrock elbow adaptor with ls1 throttle body. Banana tragics like Eyy & myself don't mind making less power to keep the stock looking engine bay except I'm envious he has starr grrr ps Starr should have 90mm throttle body & you'll see the larger elbow casting cut & welded to manifold also 4 bolt flange....can do things like coatings for heat or add heatsheat in valley,powerporting if want more flow...comes down to wallet & look you want to achieve. If don't use starr then you can go wilder with engine obviously.
Nice to know about keeping under bonnet. Am leaning towards doing with the starr ( since I have and stockish look). Yeah got it just over a year ago with fairly new 90ml throttle body and blue top injectors. Was thinking if use it spend the coin on it and make it the best it can be eg hone/ port , ceramic coat and was thinking some sort of heat / valley shield just hadn't seen anywhere where someone had. I'm sure if combo gells I will be more than happy and if not because it's only money and I'm stupid spend even more = if I have it. I have some idea what I'll be spending = this , diff , eventually paint job , brakes to suite more performance and don't want to think about it but it will be staying with nme for along time.
I know you have probably read my build thread, but 380-400 engine HP with 3.45 gearing and it's a blast (yes more is always better) so if you build the best possible combo to suit the Starr, I guarantee you will love having so much power with your stock look. Keep in mind everything is a compromise, a bigger cam may hold power longer and hit your power goal, but also make it less enjoyable at gentle cruise and light throttle 'commute' times (if you every use it for that again. I say 355", good headwork, roughly 9.8 or 10 comp, and cam to suit. Spend extra on a strong bottom end for revs, get intake anti-heat coated and oil shedding coating on the underside (that's what my bananas have). Good heads will help at both ends of the equation.
Yes I have. Thanks Definitely leaning towards spending time &money on starr. eg honing, port matching ceramic coating and also thinking of attaching some sort of heat protection on underside. Thinking / hopeing to make a custom carbon airbox ( hopefully including a hsv style otr intake Already leaning towards over spending on decent bottom end( probably more than's required) = if it's done right and either not happy with overall results or eventually want more it's already there. I take quite a while to decide on things = sometimes over think = as much as I love using as much as possible I'm adiment it's never going to be a daily again = only when I want to use. Would love some AL heads ,although that's overkill ( probably) for what I'm after= but for the right price!! Already regretting not upgrading brakes when I re- built them= with this direction I'm heading in. I might add most of this could still be a few years off= hopefully gradually pick up parts = money ( ha ha isn't it always) and employment = although had some good news in that department = next 3 to 6 months should hopefully have a clearer picture on that!!!
I have seen 6240rpm on my bananas with 70mm t/b, thermal coatings and hand ported runners. Not the best for it, but it happened.
