Stock eco rods and pistons for l67?

[Scullboy19]

So with my vs, Rodney has come a knocking and I’m planning on rebuilding it but it’s got an l67 top swap and no tune, just a work around with an aftermarket fuel regulator, but I’m planning on getting an actual tune and obviously change the timing and get the right pushrods and also upgrade the bearings to tri-metal bearings. So in saying that would I need the l67 rods and pistons or could I use the stock eco ones and just get the right compression rings or should I definitely get the l67 pistons and rods anyways. I’m also not gonna be making much power, at most like 250-270hp or even just the stock l67 240hp. I’m really just unsure if the stock eco pistons will even hold up or work properly. Also the reason for the tune is cause it’s manual swapped as well

 

[losh1971]

Why not just pay $400 and buy a complete L36 and top swap it? Parts alone will make rebuilding an Eco an expensive exercise.

 

[Scullboy19]

Why not just pay $400 and buy a complete L36 and top swap it? Parts alone will make rebuilding an Eco an expensive exercise.

Not looking to just rip swap it, looking to make it an actual l67 with the right tune and the advanced timing and right compression and all that, it already is top swapped just got rod nock is all which is an easy enough fix, but I’m just unsure whether or not I should be using l67 pistons or could I just leave it and get the right compression rings and advance the timing by 2 degrees and get the right pushrods and then just a tune?

 

[krusing]

Internals of a L67 are all different to a L36,
So it will never be a L67.

 

[vr304]

Piston rings don’t have any influence on compression ratio mate that‘s the pistons themselves and the cylinder head combustion chamber, bore, stroke, deck height (height of the piston at tdc to the top of the block) head gasket thickness, as kruising said your not going to make it an actual L67 doing what your planning to do but you’ll still have a decent engine so long as it’s done properly

 

[losh1971]

Not looking to just rip swap it, looking to make it an actual l67 with the right tune and the advanced timing and right compression and all that, it already is top swapped just got rod nock is all which is an easy enough fix, but I’m just unsure whether or not I should be using l67 pistons or could I just leave it and get the right compression rings and advance the timing by 2 degrees and get the right pushrods and then just a tune?

OK, you're money.

 

[Deuce]

OK, you're money.

Should that read your or you're?

 

[Scullboy19]

Piston rings don’t have any influence on compression ratio mate that‘s the pistons themselves and the cylinder head combustion chamber, bore, stroke, deck height (height of the piston at tdc to the top of the block) head gasket thickness, as kruising said your not going to make it an actual L67 doing what your planning to do but you’ll still have a decent engine so long as it’s done properly

Piston rings don’t have any influence on compression ratio mate that‘s the pistons themselves and the cylinder head combustion chamber, bore, stroke, deck height (height of the piston at tdc to the top of the block) head gasket thickness, as kruising said your not going to make it an actual L67 doing what your planning to do but you’ll still have a decent engine so long as it’s done properly

Yeah, just realised that rings don't but aside from that, should I change the timing and all the other components needed besides pistons and rods and get the right tune and all that or can I get away with just a tune to fix the air to fuel ratio, unsure at this point, because ik if I buy a complete l67 that's like 1500 spent on just the motor while also being unsure about the health of the motor besides the info from whoever I buy it from which is not very trustworthy most of the time in my experience and then I would also have to get a tune anyways just to make it work for manual and then also get the flywheel balanced for the l67 which by then I probably would've spent about 2k and on top of that I would also be changing the internals at some point to tri metal bearings and arp main studs to help with some common failure points of rod knock

 

[vc commodore]

Yeah, just realised that rings don't but aside from that, should I change the timing and all the other components needed besides pistons and rods and get the right tune and all that or can I get away with just a tune to fix the air to fuel ratio, unsure at this point, because ik if I buy a complete l67 that's like 1500 spent on just the motor while also being unsure about the health of the motor besides the info from whoever I buy it from which is not very trustworthy most of the time in my experience and then I would also have to get a tune anyways just to make it work for manual and then also get the flywheel balanced for the l67 which by then I probably would've spent about 2k and on top of that I would also be changing the internals at some point to tri metal bearings and arp main studs to help with some common failure points of rod knock

Want to pause with all this...It's one big breathe without a pause.

Or in other words....Make sentences out of it, with punctuation marks to make it easy to read

 

[vr304]

Yeah, just realised that rings don't but aside from that, should I change the timing and all the other components needed besides pistons and rods and get the right tune and all that or can I get away with just a tune to fix the air to fuel ratio, unsure at this point, because ik if I buy a complete l67 that's like 1500 spent on just the motor while also being unsure about the health of the motor besides the info from whoever I buy it from which is not very trustworthy most of the time in my experience and then I would also have to get a tune anyways just to make it work for manual and then also get the flywheel balanced for the l67 which by then I probably would've spent about 2k and on top of that I would also be changing the internals at some point to tri metal bearings and arp main studs to help with some common failure points of rod knock

When you say change the timing are you meaning advance the cam timing? If that’s what you‘re referring to then no don’t bother just get the tune you‘ll be sweet, as per my comment above your plan of doing the engine build will be fine so long as it’s done properly and when you say the correct pushrods if your not changing anything in the valve train or machining the block or heads down then there‘s no need to go changing them