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Discussion in 'Miscellaneous' started by stockies, Apr 1, 2013.
There is absolutely no joy in owning a E series Falcon.
True I'm finding out first hand, fix the head gasket and now looking for a mystery water leak from behind the block :beer chug:
But seriously really nice car man,
After saying a few times that I wouldn't upgrade the audio in this - because I'd get carried away, This has now become the case.
The following has now taken place:
A "custom" sub box was purchased, because I lack the time and patience required to build one properly.
Two Kicker Sub woofers were purchased.
A Audio Control LCQ-1 convertor was also purchased to try to eliminate as much "white noise" from the shitty signals in the factory ICC unit.
A heap of wiring and crimps were "borrowed" from work
Trial Fitting of the sub box, after the insides were "re-glued" as the stuff the original people used was quite sparse and frankly, crap:
Boot emptied and Subs installed to box, running at 2 ohm, using 6mm cable:
Another photo to show fitment, the upper boot carpet trim has been removed, because of the factory sub cover, thought it would not allow the box to fit:
Priced up a non premium sound boot carpet piece from Ford, $380. Bugger that I thought, the Premium one is only $190, I'd rather hack my original one up to make it fit.
Turns out the box does fit, with the original boot trim - so a win for me, just had to jam the box in tight
Mocked up where I wanted my amps to go, these were left over from the install in my old VN. I wanted them here as I hate being able to see them in the boot and prefer to hide them as best as I can, and tuning the sound is much easier.
The stupid speaker outputs were in the way of my grand idea, so they were blocked off with a extra piece of MDF and glued and screwed shut, and the outputs were relocated to the side of the box. And replaced with something better and smaller, as the connectors kept bending the flimsy tabs they were meant to stay attached to.
Photo of the Audio Control LCQ -1 vs a standard Arepro Line Out Convertor:
(Its like the LCQ2/6/7 but with the added ability to tune the signal better.)
Photo of LCQ-1 install, the speaker inputs are straight from the loom from the ICC, whereas the sub inputs are from the "outputs" from the factory amp
Engine bay cable run and fuse:
Colour coded wiring to the door speakers so I can't stuff it up, and because it looks good (for all 2 inches) of cable visible in vehicle:
Rear speakers getting new cable from amp, was previously using the factory wiring from the ICC:
(Door has already been sound deadened when aftermarket speakers where installed)
Same treatment for front doors:
View of finished product of amp install:
And finished LCQ-1 install, hidden in glovebox for now, so I can finish tuning it:
So, that's whats been happening, have only done a "basic" tune of the audio so far, but the white noise is noticeably reduced, particularly at higher volumes. It still lacks some punch in the mid range, but that's probably because I haven't attempted to tune that off the LCQ-1 yet. Once I'm happy with the sound, there is enough room to mount the LCQ-1 Behind the glovebox, out of the way. But to change things on it again, the glovebox has to be dropped down. So once I'm happy, it'll be hidden away.
So, for a basic stereo build, it turned out ok so far. I'm happy that there are no amps or convertors visible at first glance so unless you open the boot, you can't tell the audio is no longer factory. And there is still HEAPS of room in the boot, and no need for a false floor.
So, I'd like to thank eBay and my parcel delivery man for all the cheap, heavy and awkward sized audio stuff.
And my work, for having a heap of heatshink, cables and crimps for me to "borrow".
So once you have it down pat you can do mine :thumbsup:
Any more updates stockies?
How are you finding that sony amp holding up?
P Plater: Only update is that I broke something over the long weekend and its leaking coolant again....
Oh, and the passenger headlight blew as I was parking in the garage Monday arvo, haven't been bothered to fix it yet - cbf pulling the airbox apart to change it.
Tas: The amp is holding up ok (aka barely - I'm waiting for it to get too hot where it is and cook) It is a 5 -6 year old amp though. I was going to replace it, as it used to be in VN, and has sat on the shelf for 2 of those years. It is the source of the high pitched whine in the front tweeters, but turning all the Hi pass **** off fixed that. Will be looking for a replacement shortly, just needed it to get it all up and running so it was "recycled".
I've also managed to tune it (The LCQ-1) so the whine from the ICC is barely audible. Can't stand the whine/hiss in the ute now, seems so loud....
Ah well, first world problems.
Also, Tas the amp seems to work well with my 4 gauge power lead and 0 gauge ground.....
Filed the crap out of some TCL connectors to make em fit, Cut enough diameter off the wire to fit it in the connector and then crimped and soldered the cables to them, they look so getto. I love it.
For those playing at home, this amp only fits 8 gauge connections...
Welcome to the falcons owners club where our club plates are hazard triangles and we have preferred road service status especially if you own a e-series falcon . :beer chug:
Sweet as. Don't know what connections you have through work but if you're chasing anything I can probably help you out. I get pretty good discounts on pioneer, kenwood, clarion and hertz... actually just decked out the Benz in some Hertz gear and was pretty happy.
Don't tempt me. The Hertz stuff is pretty nice.
I'm currently running a Hertz HDP4 (upper class model) in my wagon, damn good quality and such a small footprint too!
Nice G6ET too, if I ever had the money I'd take one of these over a newer model Calais any day.
Update: (as of tonight) the Sony 4 channel amp is dead....
The rear channel(s) are no more...
Now taking hints/orders on a replacement amp
What I last posted
I think its alpine, check haks thread and the amps he has in the mock3
Just a small update, mainly to document what's been going on/write my ideas down.
Sony amp was fixed for a grand total of $6.70 - thanks to a new MOSFET or two
Viper two way remote is broken - have ordered a few eBay parts to try and fix it (Broke the battery door - and you cannot buy it separate)
Going to try the new remote case for the 7856V and in case that don't work, I've bought 3 new shells for the case off eBay! Pricey prices of plastic they are too....
Still fighting a small ground loop hiss? - at low volumes.
So, going to create a new ground harness for the amps/LOC and wire it all together and connect it to the bloody battery. If that doesn't fix it - I've got an alternator suppressor capacitor thats gonna get fitted (already put one on the main ICC power wire)
And if that don't work, it's getting an aftermarket head unit and I officially give up.
But I'll have to wire up the aftermarket unit for: Bluetooth, on until drivers door opened and steering wheel controls - which is only Alpine apparently.
So, decisions, decisions - and a whole bunch of procrastination.
Headunit can be anything you want mate. Retained accessories power for the headunit is fairly simple using a couple of relays
Yeah, but I CBF, house renovations are in full swing. It hasn't left the garage in weeks, been making use of the work vans and utes to pick up all my new house ****.
The update that nobody needed or wanted:
Its still alive, still hides in the garage most of the time, still has a little ground loop noise and beeps at me whenever I lock it because one of the 100,000 diodes Tasmaniak put in died about 4 months ago.
Cannot be bothered pulling it all apart for a diode, whats the harm of a extra beep? Had a massive life change/shakeup/breakup late last year, and had to put things like this on the back burner.
Its also too cold to work on it at night, and I'm sick of cars. Very much enjoying putting unwanted crackpot holes/ideas into my house renovations instead.
Only posting, because I need some motivation to even clean it at this stage.
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