Suddenly it's Hammer Time !!

[losh1971]

From what i can glean from VS -lovers comments is that the engine had previously a poor service history. Good quality clean oil cleans the engine and can break off built up sludge. VS said the lifter had jammed from what appears to be contaminants not seizing from low oil flow.

 

[woteva]

Haven't done nothing wrong just pointing out your problem

 

[vs-lover]

Hi VC,

Firstly thanks for your kind words, really appreciate it.

I've decided that I will no longer use Penrite products on Ecotecs as if you look at Lifter problems throughout this esteemed forum the common denominator is .................Penrite.

I've used their product in Alloytecs without issue for many years now but Eco's seem to be a bit of a wild card for their product. I've even had the same confirmation from a long term Sprint Store representative and Sprint are the major retailer of Penrite products here in SA, so that speaks volumes to me and remembering that they make their best GP on Penrite products.

Anyway, I've decided to give Nulon a go in this vehicle and am using their Full Synthetic 15W 50 which should be a good compromise in a 250,000k push rod engine. I'm blown away how both Castrol and Mobil specify such thin oils in these engines.

I've spent most of the day cleaning each internal component and even digging out the crud in all the recesses within the head and block along with going over all the rocker and push rod assemblies thoroughly again so that they are super clean. I'd love to be able to clean out the sump but that's just not viable at this stage.

So in the end, I am of the same opinion as VC, that this issue has mainly come about by previous owner neglect and age. I also feel that this engine probably never had an oil change in the last 5 years with him selling me the car with a supposed blown diff which was in fact the right hand rear brake calliper being ceased and the backing plate of the pad only having about a millimetre of steel left in it before it would've been calliper piston against rotor.

Now think of this next time you're sitting at a red light and see a heap of crap bearing down on you in your mirror..............what are their brakes like ?.......... mmmmmm

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Ok sorry never meant to come across that way! So it sounds like it could be a little of both neglect from the last person and wrong oil, Penrite OK if you keep to what they recommend. Most new oils like Castrol have different entry levels of oil like more lab test done and additives added to grade their oil line which also puts the cost up, You can spend 60-70 for their latest new oil or pay 30 for something that's been around for awhile.
By names -
Castrol - edge 5w 30 - magnetic 10w 40 - ultraclean 10w 30 all from Castrol and are ok to use in vs v6.
Then you have shell - HX7 10w 40 - HX5 15w 40 - Helix ultra 5w 40.
Valvoline - XLD 20w 50 - Armour 10w 40.
Nulon says may not suit on repco site.
Penrite- HPR 15w 60 - vantage 15w 40 -
Gulf and western - euro energy 5w 30 - premium energy 10w 30 - X 3000 15w 40 -

These all suit vs v6 just different lab ingredients . All the best with it.

 

[Immortality]

Evaporating oils.... now I've heard it all...

Interesting you say Penrite and noisy lifters. I dont know if I'd blame the oil completely but certainly a factor? Worse maybe on engines with poor service history?

Hydraulic lifters have the smallest internal orifice of any component in the engine so if a bit of oil contamination is going to lodge somewhere this is where it will most likely be.

Now, for years I've been running semi and full synthetic Fusch 10/15w-40 oils in our ecotec and now L67. On my last oil change I went to a Penrite 15w-40 and after a period of time I got a noisy lifter on cold start but it only happened a few times and hasn't come back, in fact it's been purring like a kitten since and that was probably 8000km ago (yes it's getting an oil change this weekend). I suspect Penrite use more cleaning additives in their oils and possibly the cause of lifter trouble as it loosens old crap in the engine. Interestingly, our L67 has a good service history and has had oil flushes used so I'm confident that it's in reasonable condition internally.

It'll be interesting to see what it does after the next oil change.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

You have know, lol his a link on evaporating oil.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...to-burn-oil/&usg=AOvVaw1FWQvIkQGN4VZ7zvrv6xnE

 

[Immortality]

I'd suggest you go to that link and read it very carefully but first I'd suggest a dictionary and look up the definition of evaporation and consumption as I'm fairly certain they are 2 very different things.

Engine oils are formulated to ensure a good film of oil remains after shut down to prevent metal to metal contact and wear and tear after a cold start. Hell, some manufacturers of oil products ( and oil additive manufacturers too) have advertised their products on this.

 

[vs-lover]

Just as a bit of a follow up.

I've had the offending lifter soaking in petrol for most of the day and I still can't shift the plunger, only the retainer ring, push rod seat and metering valve have come out, the plunger is rock solid and just won't move. That certainly explains the clacking that it provides.

I'm starting to believe the theory from member "Immortality" about Penrite using more cleaning additives as that would explain how the lifter plunger has become totally jammed up from foreign matter. Honestly though after 24 years as a daily driver there's bound to be x amount of crud that builds up in any engine, this one probably has a bit more but no where near what I've seen in Alloytecs at UPI.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Quoted from the link, It also gives you confidence that your motor oil isn't evaporating in the face of extreme heat and instead is doing what it's designed to do – protect your engine.

A motor oil’s volatility describes how readily it will evaporate when exposed to high heat. The higher the volatility, the higher its tendency to evaporate. The more the oil evaporates, the less oil is left to protect equipment and the faster you must replace the lost oil. You may have experienced the phenomenon if you’ve owned a vehicle that “uses” oil.

If the villosity of the oil isn't lubricating because its to thin then I say as no more oil is circulating the oil that's left behind would dry out faster as its still extremely hot, try putting a thin layer of oil in a pan on the stove and let it sit for 15min on 90 degrease, it will dry up ( burn away ) same as oil sitting at the top of the engine which is no longer getting oil on those hot parts, thin oil runs off faster than thicker oil which hangs on its called physics. Anyway glad his getting to the bottom of it and is now rectifying the problem.

 

[Immortality]

Can you please demonstrate this fact. Put 4 litres of oil in a sauce pan and heat to 90 degrees C and see what happens.

Btw, do you know the boiling or vapour point of your average motor oil?