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Sv6 ve 2006 5L40 Tranmission slipping 5 SPEED

Pandacrash

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Here's what happened noticed after car boiled on an hour trip that when I opened the bonnet the radiator hose blew off that's a 1st for me btw..anyhow noticed white milky
water managed to limp car home anyhow next day dumped water again I thought it was coming from motor but smelt like transmission oil.
Separated transmission lines and saw it was a blown radiator water leaked into tranny.
So I've drained out all oil 20 liters went through it for the flush.
Changed transmission oil dex6 and filter
Topped tranny oil up from left hand side of car refil while cars level and 50 degrees in temp put plug back on while engine running so I don't get blow back from torque converter.
Took it for a 30 minute drive found going up hills its slipping changes gears smoothly..

Thoughts suggested torque converter stuffed or EPC Pressure Control Solenoid
 

Pandacrash

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No dipstick on this car btw
 

Pandacrash

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At the time it had no coolant in it as I'd just changed the water pump just a week ago and hadn't put coolant in yet
 

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... Separated transmission lines and saw it was a blown radiator water leaked into tranny.
So I've drained out all oil 20 liters went through it for the flush.
Changed transmission oil dex6 and filter...
The only way any trans oil can get into engine coolant is via the radiator. That’s because the radiator incorporates a trans oil cooler line that runs through one side tank of the engine radiator itself.

If that trans cooler pipe within the radiator is cracked... oil will get out and into the coolant and visa versa... How much oil gets out and how much water gets in is anyone’s guess but some water will get in. Even a small amounts will cause some damage... damage that a full trans flush can’t fix...

Also, doing a trans flush without fixing the cause of the coolant getting into the transmission will allow the same to occur, causing further damage... How much damage has been caused is anyone’s guess but I’d not be driving it until you repair the cause of the damage and any damage caused (which will likely entail a in car trans line pressure test and if it fails a strip down just to check things)...

Limping it home, though it seems you are being careful, isn’t being careful. And though limping home seems convenient, the cost in repairing what may have been further avoidable damage won’t be convenient. Doing such simply does more damage. Instead, it’s always prudent to trailer it to a place that can repair it (your home, your mechanic or nearest Holden dealer). It’s the best and safest option...

Moral of the story should be when something that can be catastrophic occurs, like an engine overheating or especially finding a capachino mix within the coolant after a radiator hose burst, STOP DRIVING IT...
 

Pandacrash

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I already knew that transmission oil goes through the radiator although thats crap design flaw which ill rectify with a transmission cooler seperate from radiator.
Cooling problem was fixed before I attempted transmission.
New radiator is already replaced before I did oil flush I already knew the tank had split.
My question is now is it a solenoid or torque converter or otherwise I'll just put in a second hand tranny that's going and start again..
As for going to Holden haha I would no way get them to do the job unless I enjoy being broke and homeless lol
 

J_D 2.0

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I already knew that transmission oil goes through the radiator although thats crap design flaw which ill rectify with a transmission cooler seperate from radiator.
Cooling problem was fixed before I attempted transmission.
New radiator is already replaced before I did oil flush I already knew the tank had split.
My question is now is it a solenoid or torque converter or otherwise I'll just put in a second hand tranny that's going and start again..
As for going to Holden haha I would no way get them to do the job unless I enjoy being broke and homeless lol

You’ll be broke and homeless anyway. I just got quoted 4 grand for a rebuilt 5 speed transmission (transmission shop not stealership) as they are rare as hens teeth. Second hand ones are difficult to find for the same reason.

I’m currently looking at what can be done to retrofit the later model 6 speed into it as it would seem to actually be a more economical option than replacing the 5 speed. Second hand 6L50E can be had for about 350 bucks.
 

Pandacrash

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You’ll be broke and homeless anyway. I just got quoted 4 grand for a rebuilt 5 speed transmission (transmission shop not stealership) as they are rare as hens teeth. Second hand ones are difficult to find for the same reason.

I’m currently looking at what can be done to retrofit the later model 6 speed into it as it would seem to actually be a more economical option than replacing the 5 speed. Second hand 6L50E can be had for about 350 bucks.
You'll need all the computers changed with new key remote on top of it suited to that auto or get someone to reprogram yours I assume
 

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You'll need all the computers changed with new key remote on top of it suited to that auto or get someone to reprogram yours I assume

My thread is below. The TCM for the 6L50 is inside the transmission (the TCM for the 5L40 is outside of the trans) so it just needs throttle and rpm reference signals. Just need to reprogram the ECU to ignore the missing 5L40 transmission. At least that’s the theory. Haven’t done it yet.

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/ve-5-speed-auto-to-6-speed-auto-conversion.285636/
 

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@Pandacrash, coolant got into the transmission so it will have been damaged in the process. How damaged depends on how long contaminated trans fluid was circulating your transmission and how contaminated it was...

If the contamination occurred just prior to the radiator hose blow out, then by fixing the radiator hose on the side of the road and filing with water/coolant, only to drive it for another hour to get home, probably added more water/coolant into the trans fluid causing more damage. Again, how much damage is an open question but you already know it’s now slipping... and doubt it’s just a solenoid issue... which is why you shouldn’t drive it if you suspect oil may have gotten into the trans AND why not having a dipstick is such a shitty design as it makes it much more difficult to do a quick check (must add auto dipstick to my VF)...

Really the only way to know how much damage was done is to strip it down and inspect all clean and inspect all components and replace the contaminated bands, alternatively known as a trans rebuild :rolleyes:

Simply doing a full flush may not fully clean out the transmission and it probably won’t clean the contaminated band material... If it would, trans shops would offer this as a service in such instances ;)

But I’m curious how you flushed the trans fluid (did you disconnect trans fluid line and run engine so trans could pump out oil until it just starts to splutter, then quickly turned off the engine before damage occurs from running trans dry... then dropped pan and cleaned pan and changed the filter - what did the inside of trans look,like)?

I‘m also curious what state the trans oil looks like now, post your flush? You could try dumping the current fluid into a large clean +10ltr bucket (by disconnecting the trans cooler line and starting Tne engine to allowing it to pump into the container until the fluid just starts to splutter where you turn off the engine).. If that oil is visibly contaminated the flush didn’t do its job... if it looks clean, you can always return it to back to the damaged and slipping auto... Just note an overhauled auto needs 8.9 ltrs while a normal pan fluid change uses 4.7 ltrs with the torque converter holding 2.9 ltrs and the remainder within the transmission lines and passages... doing multiple 4.7 ltr flushes is not the same as doing a 9 ltr flush. And with coolant contamination, one 9 litre flush may still not clean out all the contamination from within...

But as I said, if it was as simple as a couple of full trans flushEs, trans shop would offer it as an option :rolleyes:
 
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