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Temp. issues

prometheus25

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VT commodore 3.8L ecotec
Ok so. I have a 99 VT commodore 3.8L V6. Since the start of last year I have had problem after problem with its engine temp. Last time I was driving from Rockhampton back to Townsville & the temp gauge kept creeping up to H (yes the whole way up), since this was only happening when I was in traffic & was fine on the highway I thought I'd be able to limp home & get it fixed. Bad idea! Pulled over just outside of Ilbilbie & had to have it towed back to another backwater town to have a new radiator put in. Went back to get it about a week later, was running perfectly for about 2 weeks. Then the temp gauge started screwing around again, so I took it straight to a mechanic. They then proceeded to tell me that the incompetent jerkoff who put the new radiator in, had not bled the remaining air out of the system, had this done cost about $100. Now! I have moved to Perth, W.A., and its happeneing all over again, I have been driving it in the hope that it would just die and I would have an excuse to buy a new car, but its proven to be resiliant, this has been happening for 3 weeks now... The difference this time is that the temp doesnt always go down when I am on the highway, it seems to be very sporadic, during really hot days temp will go down, cold days temp stays high, air con on or off doesnt make a difference. I am not losing any fluid, that I can see... Could this be a faulty thermostat? Or could it be that the gauge itself is faulty? Does that even really happen?
Any help would be awesome. Thanks
 

codeunknown

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VT S1 Commodore EXE 1999 with vx 3.8/auto
ok....well from a vt to vt man....i tell you....:)

its bound to be a faulty water pump and /or a faulty themostate.....
or even a shitty old fan belt.....

so do yourself a favour now..treat it to a new themo $30 a new water pump $80 and a new fan belt $49
and make sure the rad place replaced the right coolant
and the mix is right 50/50 coolant and water

also dont ever again be sucked in to this bleed air out for $100 joke....

you can bleed them yourself....

here is the method....... and can i say clean the units i saying here ..as well and check parts i saying pointless if you dont...

1) open the heater inside and run for 5 mins
then stop...
disconnect and using the hose flush out heater core................switch on the heater 1 time in every few days
to push rusty water out and take on clean coolant and water...

now take out the hose running the overflow tank...and flush the tank and hose till its perfectly clean...
now drop the engine hoses and flsuh out with the hose until the engine is cool
and check every hose and clamp.....

make sure you have an original holden rad cap not a **** clone...

drop out all the rad watrer..you wont need to flsuh it too hard its new!

now remove the thermo and replace it and flsuh that area out..
now remove the water pump and flush that out....

now make up a bucket with 50 /50 coolant and water
put everything back together
and keep putting the mix till it shows its full...
now fill the overflow with the mix
leave the rad cap off
start the car...
run it and evertime the level disappears in the rad....hit with the hoseand fill it fast..so it will push air out..
in cycle..it will spit and take on water....for 5 mins till that themo cracks open...
then once open...it take it on and stable out...
place the rad cap on....
leave the hose off and ready
go for 10km drive
if everything is fine....
it wont get above the mark where the water sign isand basically be 1/2 in the 2nd section...
now take it home
leave it stand over nmight and check level in the morning..if it takes 100mls to 200mls ..the system is fine!
keep the coolant in the overflow in between high and low ..and you wont ever have a issue...

if this car is an auto get it checked for slipping..and if a manual check your clutch..
and check your brakes are not dragging or hand brake..

the end.....:)
 
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