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The big 3.. Using jumper cables.

torch

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The quality of jumper cables is typically no where near the leads that are supplied with the car or what you can buy as replacement battery leads. One factor is the insulation, for underbonnet use it will be more heat/acid/oil resistant and go the distance without perishing. Also buying the right length leads with the terminations already on them will save a lot of hassle and you can be sure the terminations will be done well.

Alternator, is the pulley from the v6 ecotec and 202 pulley just a straight swap, they are setup for different drive belts, what about the mounting holes for each?
The voltage fluctuation at idle sounds like your regulator/brushes(replacement is about $20-30) is worn, though loose connections are possible.
Depending on your sub, if its high power like 600W, then you are going to be drawing 50A+ on big bass notes. If this is consistently how you use the car(thumping music at idle), then yes you will need more alternator.
 

acarmody

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Depending on your sub, if its high power like 600W, then you are going to be drawing 50A+ on big bass notes. If this is consistently how you use the car(thumping music at idle), then yes you will need more alternator.

Not sure where you got this info from. I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.
 

torch

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Not sure where you got this info from. I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.

If you do the maths 600W at 12-14V = ~50A, that would be with the sub cranking. At idle the standard vk alternator isnt going to putting out anywhere near that and there is the rest of the electrical load of the vehicle to count for as well, which means eventually/quickly the battery would drain down, hence my reccommendation to get a higher output alternator if that is how the system is predominatly used. Most people dont use their system like this and dont need to upgrade the alternator.

I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.

likewise if you do the maths on your systems, then your sub would have been drawing ~150A at full output, well beyond what your alternator is rated at, and a truck load more than what it would put out at idle ~40A. You obviously werent using the system on full power for hours at a time(thank goodness for that) otherwise you would have experienced flat batteries often.
 

acarmody

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Well generally when I got my sound system going I am driving, usually down the highway, so full 100 amps being produced. I'm not one of those car-park warriors.

What you have to remember is that the subs which are generally the majority of the power draws are only about 'on' about 20% of the time. Unless you have a song that is just massive amounts of rolling bass, it will only be playing a lot of short bursts. So in reality a 2000wrms system might only be pulling ~50 amps continuous.
 

torch

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What you have to remember is that the subs which are generally the majority of the power draws are only about 'on' about 20% of the time. Unless you have a song that is just massive amounts of rolling bass, it will only be playing a lot of short bursts. .

I have to remember?, did I forget? Im well aware of the power demands of all types of music, and there are some types that put a high constant drain through the subby.

As for your sound system drawing a constant 100A for hours at a time, how do you manage that without flattening the battery if all your alternator output is only matching what the sound system is using, what's powering the rest of the electrics?
 

Cameron P

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sorry to invade this thread but i just bought twin OA 12inch subs and they have something like 2400rms... is it bad that my dash headlights and tail lights dim a little when the subs kick??

its noticeable on a dark quiet road at night?!?!?!?!
 
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