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The big 3.. Using jumper cables.

torch

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sorry to invade this thread but i just bought twin OA 12inch subs and they have something like 2400rms... is it bad that my dash headlights and tail lights dim a little when the subs kick??

its noticeable on a dark quiet road at night?!?!?!?!

If they are the only effects then Id leave it alone, its just indicating that the voltage is dropping from the normal 14V you have when the engine is running, possibly down to 12-13V level, which the rest of the electrics will still work fine at.
 

Cameron P

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yeah my car doesnt die or anything.. but i still might get a better battery if not a capacitor but until then i wanted to make sure it is ok

it only dims a little bit.. its quiet funny actually.

cheers mate :)
 

torch

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I dont think a bigger battery would solve the prob, however, one check you can do to establish the truth of the matter is to monitor the voltage at the battery with a multimeter when the music is thumping and the engine running at your normal highway rpm.

If the voltage drops below 12.7V, then a bigger battery would help but not totally eliminate the effect, if it stays above that then its really the alternator that isnt capable of maintaining its output on the peaks and/or the alternator regulator is a little slow to respond.
You are most likely still going to notice dimming when the voltage varies by a volt or so.

It may be also a case of where you sound system is getting its power, do you have a lead going direct to the battery(desired) to power your amps, or is it getting its power from near where the headlight relays get theirs which could also create the dimming?
 

l1ck3r

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sorry to jump in.. can u upgrade an altenator to a higher amp jus by changing the brushes/regulator?? or is it an internal mod?
 

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can you bump up the amps from an altenator jus by changing the brushes/reg?? or is it internal mod??
is the vr altenator the same as vs in power rating?, i ask because i had the birdcage ecotec vs altenator in my vr and when it was in the car would miss, idle speed would drop when i turned the headlights on etc.. i replaced the vs ecotec alt for a series2 vp alt (same as vr) and all is well...
 

seq4x4

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Bit of an update. The VS alt has different mounts to the VK/202. Which sucks.
Also i think it might also be a wiring problem with the sound system itself. Since fixing the little attachment on the back of my alt i have a steady 13v. But as before this fix, when brakeing and turrning right the sub gets louder, and upon accelerating the sub quietens down.

Behide the headunit is a bloody mess too, didnt end up rewiring it yet. Might have to do it tomorrow.
 

torch

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can you bump up the amps from an altenator jus by changing the brushes/reg?? or is it internal mod??
is the vr altenator the same as vs in power rating?, i ask because i had the birdcage ecotec vs altenator in my vr and when it was in the car would miss, idle speed would drop when i turned the headlights on etc.. i replaced the vs ecotec alt for a series2 vp alt (same as vr) and all is well...

Yes and no, if the brushes are worn yes, but otherwise its going to require more windings etc.
dont know about vr/vs comparison.
Idle speed dropping when headlights are on is more a problem with the idle solenoid, turning the headlights on will create extra load on the alternator(even if its a 200A unit) and in a computer controlled car the idle speed is controlled by the computer/solenoid to keep the idle speed at the same level regardless of loads from the ancillaries such as power steering, aircon and alternator.

The
 

l1ck3r

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ok then thanks for your feedback.. the thing about the revs dropping when alt under load stopped when i replaced the vs alt with the vp one, maybe the vs alt was on its way out lol...
 

torch

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Unless the idle solenoid circuit fixed itself, Id say the vp unit is not providing enough current at idle, hence why it isnt slowing the motor down, have you measured what happens to the voltage at idle with the vp one?
 
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