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The OFFICIAL VE ALLOYTEC V6 SUPER MASSIVE FUN HAPPY TIME exhaust thread!!!!!!!11!!!!

rtmpgt

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Got my Bimodals working on my V6. Anyone here know how to stop the actuator rattling?
 

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Ve v6 omega 2008 3.6l
so ive done a lil looking around and a bit of research and as always (fellow omega drivers will understand) there not to much to go on, i couldnt even find a sv6 thread for it but ive had some header and hi flow cats in my shed for the better part of the year that my mate sold me for like 50 bucks when he wrote his sv6 off and im sick off looking at them want them on there.

any tips secrets or the trade or advice? im no mechanic by any means but have a but of experience servicing cars and bikes and doing general mods/maintenance, i probably fall into a backyard tinkerer category.

tools are limited to general hands tools, spanners and sockets a do have a set of jack stands a a decent-ish jack.

read up on a few v8 header installs and i know itll be different but surely not too much different?

anything i need to grab first? i seen on the v8s need a 02 sensor extention and id rather get all my ducks in a row before getting halfway through and having to stop cause ones missing.

also ive seen this can cause a check engine light with the 8s is it same for the 6's if so is it a once off or reoccurring thing, (can i just pull the battery for 30 secs and hard reset comp)
 

rtmpgt

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so ive done a lil looking around and a bit of research and as always (fellow omega drivers will understand) there not to much to go on, i couldnt even find a sv6 thread for it but ive had some header and hi flow cats in my shed for the better part of the year that my mate sold me for like 50 bucks when he wrote his sv6 off and im sick off looking at them want them on there.

any tips secrets or the trade or advice? im no mechanic by any means but have a but of experience servicing cars and bikes and doing general mods/maintenance, i probably fall into a backyard tinkerer category.

tools are limited to general hands tools, spanners and sockets a do have a set of jack stands a a decent-ish jack.

read up on a few v8 header installs and i know itll be different but surely not too much different?

anything i need to grab first? i seen on the v8s need a 02 sensor extention and id rather get all my ducks in a row before getting halfway through and having to stop cause ones missing.

also ive seen this can cause a check engine light with the 8s is it same for the 6's if so is it a once off or reoccurring thing, (can i just pull the battery for 30 secs and hard reset comp)

This will cause a CEL in your six, and it's highly recommended to get a tune. You can get sensor extensions to combat the potential for a CEL but ideally you'd want to get a tune to take advantage of the higher flow that headers provide. While you're at it, get an OTR or CAI and chuck it on. Makes no sense to improve exhaust flow without improving intake flow to begin with.

I would also recommend extending the O2 harnesses out. BBK makes a set of extenders (Part No. 1115) for the 2010 camaro that should work, although if that's not the case someone can jump in and correct me here. Alternatively you can take it to an Auto sparky to get the leads extended. You're less likely to break O2 leads if you do that as I'm not sure how your headers and cats are designed. I plan on going BBK Long Tubes for my ute at some point, so that's definitely going to need extenders due to the design, but your mileage may vary/

Your best bet is to fit them first. Fitting them is a simple, if somewhat cumbersome job. Ideally you'd want a hoist to get under the car. I could see that you'd ideally want to drop the exhaust (obviously), then the cats, and then finally the headers themselves once you gain access to the nuts underneath the tubes.
 

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This will cause a CEL in your six, and it's highly recommended to get a tune. You can get sensor extensions to combat the potential for a CEL but ideally you'd want to get a tune to take advantage of the higher flow that headers provide. While you're at it, get an OTR or CAI and chuck it on. Makes no sense to improve exhaust flow without improving intake flow to begin with.

Not necessarily. For example the Pacemakers PH5080 have the O2 sensors in the same position as the factory headers so you don't need an extension nor get a CEL. You still get a decent power increase even without a tune, and less drone.

But that's true for long tube headers.

I think the hardest part is to access some bolts, especially on the driver side. Also would need some flanges mods at the headers/cats and/or cats/catback junctions. But in the OP's case, it seems like the headers and cats were already together so, if the catback is the same as on the donor car, that might be a bolt on scenario.

Because I needed the cat flanges to be redone, I had them installed at a local shop and paid $250 (5 years ago if I remember well), definitely worth it.
 

rtmpgt

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Not necessarily. For example the Pacemakers PH5080 have the O2 sensors in the same position as the factory headers so you don't need an extension nor get a CEL. You still get a decent power increase even without a tune, and less drone.

See i'm going by the design that XForce used for their equal length shorties... I think there's some Hurricane headers available as well which come with a set of cats that bolt up that are in a different position. Paceys look like they're the easiest bolt-on solution though. If OP's got pacey's he should be golden then!
 

rtmpgt

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One thing i'd also like to add too is that the LLT exhausts vary quite a bit from the LY7 exhaust. The LY7s have a pair of hotdogs after the centre muffler, whereas the LLT exhausts have this weird crossover box looking thing behind the centre muffler. I did a centre muffler delete on my LLT exhaust and it sounds nice when you're cruising, (when vacuum sits at about -10InHg to -5InHg) but when you absolutely step on it it sounds like total AIDS.

The bimodals (when working with my TB spacer) thankfully cut out a heap of drone and make it bearable to drive when cruising. Keeps the missus and the coppers happy anyways.

Would adding say, a pair of 18" glasspacks where the crossover box is, and say, adding a cross pipe close to where the pipes merge in smooth out the note a little at the top end?
 

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Ve v6 omega 2008 3.6l
hey lads,

cheers for the info.

for reference theyre HM headers and the cats HM get from another company to suit, theyre not long tube so hopefully should be right with extensions but ill do it on the weekend i get paid as a just incase.

when i got the car it had a cat back on it, ive done a 20% under driver and a 3.5" cai with a huge pod filter, also running mace engineering's 25mm manifold insulators.

since i dont have a casual 1000-1200 for a "proper" tune i shall be going the way of a mace mail order tune, which i figure wouldnt be the worst as its all mace parts on the car (minus exhuast) i do plan on eventually getting around to rebuilding the internals with all the mace parts possible as i would like strap a charger to it. (unsure on super or turbo) i would love to super and have it push 30-40 psi through it but after coiming across some Aussie made turbo kits now im undecided.
link for turbo kits. https://www.facebook.com/VE-VF-V6-TURBO-Commodores-469265356557813
 

rtmpgt

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hey lads,

cheers for the info.

for reference theyre HM headers and the cats HM get from another company to suit, theyre not long tube so hopefully should be right with extensions but ill do it on the weekend i get paid as a just incase.

when i got the car it had a cat back on it, ive done a 20% under driver and a 3.5" cai with a huge pod filter, also running mace engineering's 25mm manifold insulators.

since i dont have a casual 1000-1200 for a "proper" tune i shall be going the way of a mace mail order tune, which i figure wouldnt be the worst as its all mace parts on the car (minus exhuast) i do plan on eventually getting around to rebuilding the internals with all the mace parts possible as i would like strap a charger to it. (unsure on super or turbo) i would love to super and have it push 30-40 psi through it but after coiming across some Aussie made turbo kits now im undecided.
link for turbo kits. https://www.facebook.com/VE-VF-V6-TURBO-Commodores-469265356557813

Well, SC is definitely going to be nicer to your engine, cheaper to do and require a lot less fab work. Revhigh is a sponsor of the site and they offer an intercooled SC package for about $7k. They also do a twin turbo kit as well, but that's only for LFX powered commodores. You'd need to also factor in extra cash for exhaust upgrades and a tune.

If you've got an Omega then actually the very first thing i'd do is an LLT, LFX orLY7 swap. You get an extra cam phaser, an extra 0.6L of displacement and most of all, more control over your tune. If you're going to get a second engine you may as well throw forgies at it too. You'd need to tear the engine down to get the specs for Revhigh or MACE to get your pistons made, then take it to an engine builder to get it sorted (or alternatively, DIY if you know your way around a torque wrench.)

30-40psi is going to require a serious amount of work on a sixer (it may very well be impossible), you'll need to decomp your pistons for starters, since your LE0/LY7s have a 10.2:1 comp ratio, and LLTs have a comp ratio of 11.2:1, which is way, way high for that level of boost. With factory compression you might get away with about 6-9psi on SC, but that's only on 98RON. But in saying that you'd make about 285-295rwkw at 9psi with that, which is plenty for getting into trouble.

If you're gonna fab your own turbo kit, a Garret GTX2860RS pair in 0.6AR would be perfect (you've theoretically got two 1.8L engines in a V config and that turbo is what's seen on upgraded SR20 and CA18DET powered Silvias). You'd have to get oil to the turbos (V8 Roadsters does a remote oil block for that but you'll need a scavenge pump to return oil to the sump) as well as extensive fab work done.

I'd budget about 10-15k including tune for twins, and about $10k including tune for a SC setup on any LLT or LFX. Expect about the same power gains either way. That also assumes you've made the switch to an LLT, LY7 or LFX. Factor another $5k for that swap to happen too.
 

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hey mate From my understanding the first gen le0's were 3.6's? please correct me if im wrong.

when i was trying to get correct wiperblades through supercheap the website informed me about my engine code being the le0 180kw @flywheel and being pre SIDI i hadnt heard of 3L non sidi. but please im here to learn correct me if i am wrong

i added it all up and from everything from conrods to lifter and cams,timing chains and gears, rollers, piston heads intake and exhaust vavles. will set me back 3700 from mace. i might contact them an ask about ways to lower compression with all there forged parts, im sure steve and the lads will be able to come up with somthing for me.

i really am wanting to go with a S/C over turbs because instant power. for the street light drags, (to the speed limit ;) )

the sc i looked into may have been from rev high but was going to cost 8k with the bigger intake and fuel pump, tho the pump was rated from i think up to 20 psi so thatll be another task to do i suppose fabbing a fuel system that can push enough fuel and suit model of car.
 

rtmpgt

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hey mate From my understanding the first gen le0's were 3.6's? please correct me if im wrong.

when i was trying to get correct wiperblades through supercheap the website informed me about my engine code being the le0 180kw @flywheel and being pre SIDI i hadnt heard of 3L non sidi. but please im here to learn correct me if i am wrong

i added it all up and from everything from conrods to lifter and cams,timing chains and gears, rollers, piston heads intake and exhaust vavles. will set me back 3700 from mace. i might contact them an ask about ways to lower compression with all there forged parts, im sure steve and the lads will be able to come up with somthing for me.

i really am wanting to go with a S/C over turbs because instant power. for the street light drags, (to the speed limit ;) )

the sc i looked into may have been from rev high but was going to cost 8k with the bigger intake and fuel pump, tho the pump was rated from i think up to 20 psi so thatll be another task to do i suppose fabbing a fuel system that can push enough fuel and suit model of car.

Well, I didn't know what Omega you had. haha. Holden changed the damn engines so many times.

In that case, yeah, you do have a 3.6 but only with a single variable intake cam. Your swap would be an LY7 in that case (which'd give you a variable exhaust cam too). Not sure if LY7 heads bolt on but you'd need to swap out the entire harness anyways for the additional sensors the LY7s have.

You wouldn't need to decomp if you're say, hitting lower boost levels. Only when you start pushing above 9psi is when you'd need to decomp since you'll start knocking even on 98RON. That fuel system would more than likely be a bigger pump and modded/bigger injectors that can handle the higher flow rates needed for say, E85 etc.
 
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