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The Super Duper Timing Chain Thread!

VFSV6FORME

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Just when dead cold first start of the day, any warmth in engine it's fine. Like tappets on the old Holden six
One full 24 hour period and no Noise at first start up, lets see if it rattles at start up in 48 hours.
 

blackve76

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OK your car does it for the first start of the day. My VE 2008 seems to be ok if i let the car still for up to 2 days other wise on the third day it rattles for the first 2 or 2 1/2 seconds (not even 3 seconds). What do you think? Are your tensioneres retracting when the engine is off for a day or so so when you start the engine OIL pressure forces the tensioner out to stop the rattle. What I was tolds the Tensioners are not to retrace but only go forward when the chain wears but if this is true my car your car might have retracting tensioners because as soon as I get OIL PRESSURE the noise is gone after 2 to 2 1/2 seconds (That quick)
Someone with more experience that know these V6 engines in and out would give more input on this as looking a Youtube video one Engine Expert showed a NEW V6 (he was dress with a White gown) how to replace the timing chain and did deliberately actuated the tensioner out and he had to take it off the engine and manually with a trick wind it back in. No doubt our one's with ware they are going in by itself and when you start the car they the tensioners and the device that slides on the chain are force back to the chain.

I would like a expert on this to knowledge this or tell me I'm wrong.
My rattle is like 1 second, goes away with oil pressure
 

VFSV6FORME

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My rattle is like 1 second, goes away with oil pressure
But why does it stop after 1 second? ( Yes Oil Pressure)or i my case 2 to 2 1/2 second mainly I say 2 seconds but could be less. So Considering the Tensioner stays close to the chain why does it rattle in the first place if not the tensioner releases itself when it should not.
Now this is the Big question on why does it do this.
 

NTJosh

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Had the dreaded P0008, P00009, P00017 and P00018 fault codes show their ugly heads. Pulled the car apart a couple of days ago and happy to see that everything is nice and clean inside,
cars a 2009 SV6 SIDI LLT with 180,000k’s.
Waiting for a kit to come from Revhigh, complete kit with gears and also oil pump. Worried I may have to drop the sump but it’s clean so not going to do.
Replaced the thermostat yesterday, bit awkward but not to bad..couple of hrs and it was done.
 

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alanrock

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Hi I have a ve 2010 3.0l Sidi and I’m getting POO17 CKP TO EXHAUST CMP CORRELATION B1 should I try replacing the camshaft sensor first before anything else
 

Elandu

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Hey guys. I just bought an 09/MY10 Ute (3.6 LLT SIDI) that came with a P0008 code (no rattles as of yet). Been doing a ton of research and gathering quotes to get it done, but decided to try changing the chain myself - worst case I'll try to find a LFX engine to replace it.

Seen a lot of kits, decided on the revhigh kit and doing the oil pump while I'm at it. Had a few questions before I proceed:

1) Anyone have feedback on these cheapo ebay kits?
2) Revhigh don't include the rocker/plenum/inlet gaskets, are people replacing these or using RTV gasker maker?
3) Bolts aren't included either. Genuine kits include a boltset. Are people re-using the old bolts or getting them elsewhere?
4) Is it worth replacing the idler/crank gears?
 
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Revhigh

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Hey Elandu, if you need any of these parts we can get them for you. You can re-use the stock Tensioner/Guide bolts (but we included these), you can also re-use all the timing cover bolts and intake bolts.
We do include the rocker gaskets as an extra, the same with the inlet gaskets. If you'd like a package price give us a call today 0415 546 361 and we can sort out a very good price. Just tell the receptionists you are from the JC forums!!

Also be careful with cheapo kits, we are biased, but the grey/silver chinese made chains in these kits are known for jumping teeth due to the poor tensioner quality, when this happens you'll likely bend 1 or both sides of your cyl head valves. We only recommend the Genuine revised chains (silver with purple and yellow links that have been stamped)
 

Revhigh

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Also while I'm here, if anyone wants a Genuine kit installed with 3 years parts warranty/1 year labour warranty we have been doing them for $999!! If you call us and book in this month or next month we can take off an extra $50 for JC customers, just mention you are from the JC community and would like to book it in for $950 ;)
 

Elandu

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I think I fucked up.

Step 1: So I've set the crank pulley timing mark to the 8 o clock mark on the oil pump, removed the RH (drivers side) chain and tensioners. Locked the cams with the alignment tool and set the crank pulley mark to the 5 o clock position by hand cranking clockwise.

Step 2: Removed the primary chain, tensioner and RH idler gear. Replaced the oil pump. Removed the LH side chain, tensioners, and idler gear. Realised the LH side timing marks aren't at the top, so I decided to put every everything back for Step 2 except putting new guides, new gears and reusing the old tensioners.

Now the crank is locked up within probably 60-70 degrees. Clockwise or anticlockwise. At this point I was lost and thought maybe the alignment tool might be locking everything up so I decided to retrace everything to step 1. Now everything is back on, crank still locked.

I'm thinking either something fell in the intake, or it's completely out of time and locked up.

Do I try and pull the heads?

Edit: I have an SIDI engine, not alloytec.

Edit 2: from memory RH and LH side looked like it was like 3 to 4 teeth in front of the marks before but tight. And primary chain was loose.
 
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greenacc

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Don't know why you would want to pull the heads. If it was locked up I think is be lifting the cams off first of all to release the valve springs so you can rotate the crank back to where you want it and start again.
 
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