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The Super Duper Timing Chain Thread!

Elandu

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Don't know why you would want to pull the heads. If it was locked up I think is be lifting the cams off first of all to release the valve springs so you can rotate the crank back to where you want it and start again.

So remove cam gears, caps, lift and reseat the camshaft in the same alignment for intake/exhaust on both sides?

Found the part in the manual that refers to installing the camshaft. 10Nm torque for the caps, can't find torque for the cam gears.
 

clutch1967

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What about code p0020 this is what mine is putting
 

gungazza

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remove chains, put crank to 5 0clock, if need be turn cams so the flats line up if so use a spanner to turn them ,install passenger chain ,and botom chain ,turn engine to 8 oclock same thing turn cams with spanner , install drivers chain check timing marks 10 times should be all good mace have a install sheet very good make sure you understand it
 

VS_Pete

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lout

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not going to read 14 pages so apologies if this has been posted
vacc timing chain articles
well unfortunately vacc have now made them members only
 
Last edited:

Pablito

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Hey guys,
Just a question..........
I have first dibs to buy a relos 2013 VE2 Calais V6 with 40,000 kms on it. The car is immaculate inside and out BUT the service history is not unfortunately.
For the first 3 years/10,000kms the servicing was done as per the correct schedule (9 months regardless of ks driven) but since the warranty was up they have only done 2 services in the last 6 years. Each one being after 15,000 kms and approx 3 years instead of 9 months.
Is this enough neglect to put this car in danger of sludging up and having timing chain issues?
There were no rattles or sounds when I cold started it and it drove really nice and smooth tbh. A real nice car.
I just want it as a highway commuter so the SS goes back to being a weekender.

Cheers
 

J_D 2.0

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I would say it depends on the driving pattern of the car. Seeing as it’s very low kilometres for a car of its age I would be concerned if the low kilometres was because it was only being driven 5kms per day every day as fuel vapours and moisture in the oil wouldn’t have had sufficient driving to have been burnt off which can sludge the oil.

If it was just low kilometres because it was only driven occasionally (weekend driver) but did decent length trips (over 30 minutes driving per trip) I would be less concerned about the lack of servicing to the time schedule as any volatile fuel vapour and water vapour mixed in with the oil would have been burned off which should keep the oil in decent condition (provided a decent quality oil was used).
 

UNLEASHED

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Personally owning both the 5l 5.7, 6l AND a 3.6 LLT, Id stick to the 6l....Fuel economy is on par with the LLT...
 

stick3

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you can unscrew the oil filter housing on top of engine and see how the filter looks if its gummed up with sludge thats be the best way to tell how the oil is in the engine
 
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