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Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by ducker85, Jan 22, 2015.
or a sludged up engine when the oil takes longer to get where it should be ???
I have the dreaded P0008 error on my VE S2 SV6 2010.
I am in Perth, does anyone know of a cheap place to get the timing chains replaced? I am considering moving the cam sensors first to see if there is a faulty one. I am not getting any other DTC codes other than P0008, and no noise, just engine light that comes back a few hours after I turn it off.
Any other advice would be appreciated too.
Just purchased a 2008 VE ute with 150K km. I am starting to think I bought the wrong ute with all of this talk about timing chain issues. No problems on this ute yet, but I'd like to be prepared in case the issue crops up. Anyone know someone in Sydney who is experienced with doing chain replacements?
Thanks for any advice.
Hey guys, first post but following for some time. My sister had her 2011 3.6 replaced due to timing timing issues and metal on crank sensors. I now have this engine 1- should I strip down and rebuild possibly requiring bearings and timing gear. One of the guides was also broken. Could I sell parts off it. I have 3.0 would love to put the 3.6 in but heard not easy. Any input. Oil in 3.0 I change every 7500 klms. I know rev high have some great kits and upgrades for 3.0.
Even a sludged up engine like this can be saved! The chains were stretched beyond belief, valves were smashed and some of the rockers had come off the pedestals. The engine is off a Colorado, LCA type, incredibly hard to find second hand so the only option was to rebuild it! With a chain kit fitted it's going to be under $2500 which is still pretty damn good!
So I’ve pulled timing gear off without setting marks, I next want to remove cams as had metal on cam sensors so just searching for issue. Without knowing timing marks is this a major issue or can timing still be set later?
EDIT: I was half asleep and a bit stressed when I wrote the original, so I've made some amendments in hope it makes more sense. I'm also infinitely aware this is my own fault, and has nothing to do with where I bought the chain kit or got the instructions from.
So, I need some help.
I'm not a complete muppet on the tools, but this miiiight have been a fraction above my skill level.
Engine in question: VE 3.0 LFW
I had watched a number of instructional vids on chain replacement process on VE (Cloyes and another back-yarder) and was confident I could do the job, slowly but somewhat of a 'colour by numbers' scenario is how I saw it. I also got a written/pictorial instructions on how to do it from the same website I bought the chains (MACE). Strangely, I cant find anything specific to the 3.0, but they all state that the process is the same for the 3.0 as the 3.6. Maybe this was my first mistake.
As per the videos, I positioned the crank timing mark to the 8oclock, locked the cam, removed the chain. Turned the crank ccw to the 5oclock timing mark.
At this point I cross referenced against the written material for accuracy, and it was different...(sinking feeling). The written material states that I should have removed the first chain at the 5oclock.
I panicked at this point and my rational brain turned to **** and I should have just taken a walk or something. I Turned the crank cw back to the 8oclock position, replaced the old chain and proceeded to watch and read everything through again a hundred times over, completely doing my head in.
For reasons unbeknownst, I decided to remove the chain again at the 8oclock position, and follow the video instructions. But.... Instead of turning the crank ccw back to the 5oclock to continue, I turned it cw (because the crank bolt was undoing), but the second cam lock tool didn't fit in that position. (this is where any remaining brain cells left me) So I went one full revolution cw back to the 5oclock, and the locking tool now fit. Effectivley, 1 & 3/4 turns cw from the 8oclock position.
With **** not really synapsing at this point, I figured this must be the right position, and I removed the rest of the chains... I have since come to the realisation that the chains were not in the right position when removed, and I'm pretty **** at problem solving when I'm tired.
1. Can I just put the old chains back on, turn everything back the same amount of revolutions in ccw, and start again and salvage a monster **** up?(not likely)?
2. Can I retime it from scratch, and where would I get those instructions?
3. What other options are at my disposal?
Thank you embarrassingly in advance for any help.
I did the same and asked Cloys timing if it’s an issue. My cas. It so bad as only an engine playing with. Got this reply. Hope it helps
Their explanation is a little vague, but it makes sense to some degree. did their solution work for you?
Haven’t done yet, I’m just playing around, had metal in the engine, it was my sisters.
I've rolled with that Cloyes advice you sent and just got the chains back together. I've turned it over by hand a few revolotions without incident, so that's a good sign!
Thanks a tonne mate!
Just wondering when setting timing marks and chain what piston should be tdc?
just saw an ad for a 2012 VE series2 and the chain has been replaced? I thought these were fixed in later/SIDI models?
Nope, just replaced the chains on 2011 LFW, 120k on it. Engine was mildly sludged, particularly right bank. Tensioner was maxed out on that side also, left bank not as bad.
IMPORTANT SIDE NOTE...
Be aware that when Reassembling, the idler sprockets marking can be confusing (more so if you're not real bright like me).
Both sprockets will be marked LB FRONT and RB FRONT, on both sides. Just be certain you have them the right way round, aka the recessed face facing fwd. They will 'fit' both ways, but if they are fitted the wrong way... You will ventilate the timing cover when you start to torque them down!!
It's a simple oversight given that the markings on the sprockets are interchangeable, so just be aware.
Would a presale inspection pick up these chain problems? Thanks
Edit: is the sludge problem related to the timing chain?
I have an MY10 sv6 sportwagon I bought in 2015 through a Holden dealership that had done 129k and almost straight away i was having intermittent loss of power issues and engine lights so after a lot of stuffing around through Holden they realized the timing chain needed replacing at 136k. I was told it was replaced with a stronger chain and I wouldn't have any dramas again.
Fast forward to now (211k) and I've been having the same power losses and engine lights so I purchased a code scanner and I'm getting P0008 which is apparently my timing chain again. My car has regularly been serviced and never thrashed yet it seems to have happened again.
Has anyone else had multiple issues with timing chains before or am I just **** outta luck? Any help or information would be great as I can't afford to replace the things again. Would that software fix sort out the problem? How much does that cost? Even if just long enough so I can trade it in somewhere
Thanks in advance
From what I've read here and other forums, the software fix just makes the tolerances wider/more lenient so the computer won't complain as much.
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
I did my wife's 09 ve at about 380 000 it started to throw codes for cam timing so you might have a few km up your sleeve yet
So is there any way of checking the camshaft timing without removing the timing chain? Ill take the front off for the fifth time of course to see it all again- joy...
Is there a link count or will it all match up after x amount of revolutions?
I reckon the idlers or the crank gear is dodgy. No matter what I do its either advanced bank A or or out of parameters Bank B?
2012 sv6 LFX, Cars done 108,000 kms so far and two days ago upon cold starting the car it made a mechanical rattle which it never did before. Vid link below is exactly what it sounds like.
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