Torque settings for wheel nuts?

[Sean880]

Anyone know what to torque the wheel nuts too?

Cheers :beer chug:

I guess if people don't know they will have a guess or they can consult the owner's manual.

As another mentioned above, GMH states in the manual the nuts should be torqued to "170 Newton Metres plus or minus 20 NM."
So on that basis 150 NM will be fine.

Your torque wrench at work should do 150 nm Andy.

 

[lmoengnr]

By over tightening the wheel nuts you can run the risk of not only stripping the thread but also stretching the bolt perhaps resulting in premature failure.

110 Nm is a safe level of torque for on-road use.

Remember, the threads should be clean and dry - NO grease or oil. If your vehicle is subjected to high levels of salt then a small amount of anti-seize grease can be applied to the end of the thread.

VE/VF have bigger diameter wheel studs, 170NM is standard torque for a 14mm fastener.

110NM is fine for previous Commodores.

 

[ChRiDDa]

Yep, as has been confirmed 170nm according to the owners handbook

 

[Smitty]

65 ft/lb

 

[MYVESSV8]

FT for the VE, then if you get a flat on the side of the road its FT to get off, yep 170nm

 

[greenacc]

170Nm isn't tight enough to cause any issues getting the wheel off with the supplied tyre lever. Possibly a different story if your using a 3/8 ratchet?
Leaving your wheel nuts loose to make it easy to change a flat does not sound very clever at all! Unless you like chasing your wheels through the bush when they come loose and fall off...
God knows how tight my mechanic does them, I need the old jack handle on my breaker bar to get those suckers off!!

 

[vc commodore]

I must remember to carry a torque wrench in my car for future tyre changes.....For me I do them up until I hear the creak of the wheel nut against the rim and in the decades I've been doing that I've never a wheel part company with the car

 

[greenacc]

I must remember to carry a torque wrench in my car for future tyre changes.....

I wouldn't go that far, but certainly keep a torque wrench at home and fix it when I get back.

 

[Zeke Topanaga]

I think the book on my car says to check the nuts again after driving it and it has 18in alloys, I find that when doing them up that the amount that the nut turns is bugger all, till she dead solid stops turning.
All the other alloy wheels I have had do not lock up as directly as this one does, I like the old bull nosed type bolt ends that come with steel wheels the best for the feel they give, so then you know they will not come off as you nip them up because the nut has turned about 360 deg under pressure so it's less likely to come off for sure I believe, not like the ones I have now that just go solid directly and maybe turn 5 deg at most I think.

I have been in a LH Torana with alloys when the rear wheel was about to come off driving on the highway, we were both pissed as, it was about 3 in the morning coming home to milk the cows and we thought what the is going on and pulled up and old mate did not have a jack or nothing, but a dude we know happened to just come along and fixed it all up for us before we knew it and off we went.
So the wheel does not just come off without warning before hand I believe.

On trucks you have to tighten all the nuts up and then go over them again in about 50 or 100 km after that's mandatory, one mate learnt that the hard way after seeing the wheel overtake him and head into the bush and he could not find it.

 

[vc commodore]

On trucks you have to tighten all the nuts up and then go over them again in about 50 or 100 km after that's mandatory, one mate learnt that the hard way after seeing the wheel overtake him and head into the bush and he could not find it.

Whilst it isn't mandatory, tyre shops I have worked in and currently work in, we recommend checking the wheel nuts after this sort of distance. We also place a sticker on each wheel or set that has been removed as well as one of the wind screen stipulating this....
That way, the onus on re-checking the wheels is on the operator/owner....In mentioning this, it has only been in the last 10 years (max), that these stickers have been applied to truck wheels

Personally, if the wheel nuts are done up correctly once removed, even with a car, there it is not necessary to be anal and torque them up. I have only noticed this sort of discussion in the past 5 to 10 years....Prior to that, it was always done by the "creak of the wheel nut" method....But maybe I am set in my ways because this method has never failed me in the decades I have been fitting wheels to peoples cars and haven't had a complaint that they lost a wheel, or couldn't undo their wheel nuts on the side of the road when they got a flat