Trackcar

[Timbaker96]

So I have a vx v6 auto, I want to get it on the track but don't know where to start.. Any suggestions? It'll be a project car and won't be on the roads just the track, so I don't mind what goes in as long as I can get some speed behind the wheel. Cheers

 

[Decicrate]

Being a VX, weight is one of your enemies to begin with. Seeing that you said that it is dedicated for track the first thing I would be doing is gutting the whole car.
Remove every thing that is not required, seats, carpet, sound deadening (use dry ice pellets for this) door cards, air con, heater, seat belts, you get the idea....
With every thing out there is about 100kg+ saving.

If it were me, a nice seat and a four point harness, if you value your safety.

Brakes, to begin with start with some RDA or DBA rotors, this depends on budget, and a nice set of pads. I use REMSA in mine, they work well, don't cost the earth and they don't destroy rotors. Hit up GSL Rally Sport, a site sponsor here. Also use a good synthetic high boiling point brake fluid.

Get rid of the auto and put a manual in it.......

Suspension, this can cost a small fortune, so you really need to have a good think about how far you want to go, but something nice would be a set of Bilsteins some King springs, adjustable front sway bar and new bushes all round.

Tyres, get some nice slicks or semi slicks as street tyres just don't cut it on the track.

Diff, either a factory style LSD or a KAAZ, don't use a trutrac for the track and run a 3.45 or 3.7 ratio.

Engine, leave it stock to start with, once you have got to the limits of the rest of the car, then look towards more power.
The cheapest way with a V6 is to go forced induction, many turbo kits out there at good prices.

Also find other guys that have track cars, preferably a Commodore as they will have experience with that style of car and will be able to help you out with setups and so forth. These guys know whats what and can be a fountain of knowledge.

Last of all, have fun, that's what it is all about!!!

 

[Commo Baba]

Exactly what you do will depend on what you mean by 'track'.

 

[chargedvx6]

If you mean circuit racing then brakes and suspension is all you need to start. You can chase power once you're braking at the last brake warning marker on the track later.

HSV PBR 330mm brakes are great and cheap. Cheaper pads and rotors than any of the AP/ Harrop options. I'd say go braided brake lines inc the flex lines between the body and rear cradle. These will be able to be used regardless of what brake set up you go to later if you upgrade.

Wilwood FNSL GT big brake set is quite affordable and also the lightest on the market afaik. Big wheels and more expensive tyres required though

Bond roll cages offer a good cams approved cage at fair prices but being in Melbs there is endless places to choose from to have a custom one fabbed up

Front lower control arm rear castor rod bushes should be fitted with steel shelled variants to allow minimum steering deflection under heavy braking too imo Whiteline W52906 Radius/strut rod - to control arm bushing

Also steel shelled inner lca are important. Whiteline W51233 Control arm - lower inner bushing

I'd suggest fitting good sway bars before messing round with shocks and springs if you're on a budget as ultimately sways are going to be more effective with a VX boat tbh. Of course a whole package is better but I've found the sway bars to give better performance over all per stage if you had to choose one or the other

 

[Darren_L]

hey Barry,

why wouldn't you recommend a truetrac for track use ?

 

[_R_J_K_]

Your other biggest impediment is that it's auto. You need it to rev and you need to be able to compression brake if you want it to do well.

It might be worth your while looking into a cheap manual VS, or even something light and FWD if you're on a budget. They often have a lot more support to choose from (Civic springs to mind). Maybe have a look at some of the cheaper single make racing classes and see what they do.

 

[Decicrate]

hey Barry,

why wouldn't you recommend a truetrac for track use ?

They way it works can make for some interesting moments through corners. If you come through a corner hard and the inside starts to get light, with the truetrac, if the inside wheel gets light it will start to spin and it will spin at a far faster rate than what the non spinning side will.

Seeing you have done some track days, could you imagine what the result could be coming over the top of the eastern loop and that happening......

For street duties and for drag duties they work fine, if you have a street car that you track now and then you will probably get away with it.
But for a dedicated car I would go a true LSD.

Oh and stay clear of a spool as well....

 

[Darren_L]

They way it works can make for some interesting moments through corners. If you come through a corner hard and the inside starts to get light, with the truetrac, if the inside wheel gets light it will start to spin and it will spin at a far faster rate than what the non spinning side will.

Seeing you have done some track days, could you imagine what the result could be coming over the top of the eastern loop and that happening......

For street duties and for drag duties they work fine, if you have a street car that you track now and then you will probably get away with it.
But for a dedicated car I would go a true LSD.

Oh and stay clear of a spool as well....

ok, so basically what you are saying is they act more like an open centre if both wheels aren't loaded equally ?

I was lead to believe they were good at keeping the unloaded and loaded wheel speeds constant
But I've never used one myself, but have been seriously considering upgrading the VH with one.

I've found the Salisbury or Borg Warner 'cone' style LSD virtually goes open centre after about 2 laps. After that it gets real loose/taily exiting hungry heading towards the eastern loop. But I suspect when you say a 'true LSD' you'd be referring to a clutch style LSD like a 9inch uses ?

mine is only an occasional track car, but certainly don't want to go backwards.... Your feedback about the truetrac has prompted me to do a little more research
cheers

ps - sorry about the thread hi-jack Timbaker, although you might find this discussion related and useful to your own application

 

[NPreston]

I wouldn't fit a harness until you have fitted a roll cage. Can't move with a harness if you put it on it's roof and the roof caves in.

 

[Kiddo]

I wouldn't fit a harness until you have fitted a roll cage. Can't move with a harness if you put it on it's roof and the roof caves in.

100000000000000000000000% (you beat me to it)

Harness's without cages are MORE dangerous. Without a cage + harness + roll over = smooshed head.