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Transmission flush or not

deserthead

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Bottom is outlet and top is inlet.
 

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Thank you for that info.

I'll now make up a pipe to fit into the inlet rubber hose that will be able to be placed into the 4 litre trans fluid bottle so as to suck straight from there while a piece of garden hose can be slipped over the outlet rubber hose.

Apparently this method is called shampooing of the transmission.
 

Immortality

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Never heard of that term and doing a google search doesn't bring up anything relevant either....

I just drop the cooler hose, pump out 4 litres and then put 4 litres into the filler tube, simple enough. I'm not sure if the return line will suck fluid back into the transmission as the cooler line works on the pressure from the inlet side and not the return.
 

BlackVXGTS

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Well, I'm sure the top hose is the outlet, that's what I used anyway:

1. Serviced the trans as normal, vacuumed out as much fluid as possible, removed the sump, cleaned everything up, new filter, new sump gasket, replaced sump and filled trans with 5l of new fluid.
2. Removed and plugged the top trans hose at the radiator.
3. Attached one end of a clear hose to the top trans radiator outlet and the other end to a one litre container.
4. Started the engine and ran until the one litre container was full with old fluid.
5. Filled the trans with one litre of new fluid through the filler pipe.
6. Continued 4->5 until the fluid ran clear - about 8-12 litres.
6. Replaced hoses, checked trans level when hot, done.
 

vs-lover

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Hi BVXGTS,

If you say the top hose is the outlet then shouldn't you be attaching a clear hose to that and running it into a bucket etc. and plugging the top radiator fitting so as nothing leaks from that point ? as you suggest to fit the draining hose at the top radiator point and that then makes the lower hose the actual draining pressure directional fluid flow ?

Sorry but it sounds a tad confusing.

Cheers.
 

deserthead

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I just drop the cooler hose, pump out 4 litres and then put 4 litres into the filler tube, simple enough. I'm not sure if the return line will suck fluid back into the transmission as the cooler line works on the pressure from the inlet side and not the return.

Thats exactly how I do mine. Once the colour of the fluid changes, job done!

It wont suck on the return line, it only runs off the box pump.

Defs on my box, bottom is outlet and top is inlet.
 

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Apparently this method is called shampooing of the transmission.[/QUOTE]

A few years ago some transmission service centres were advertising this terminology on their menu boards.

Can someone clear identify which line is the feed to the trans cooler and which is the actual return line back to the transmission as if you read all the above posts they do contradict each other a bit, thus creating some confusion.
 

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Drop one line and have someone start the car momentarily and you'll know for sure...
 

BlackVXGTS

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Hmmm. It's been some years since I did this. I must have plugged the top radiator outlet, and used that hose with a clear plastic extension to the measuring container. As others have stated, the top trans radiator hose is the inlet from the trans, not the output from the radiator. However, it's the one that gets the dirty fluid directly from the trans, and the best one to use to determine if the fluid in the trans is clean (as well as the easiest point to access).
 

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Just to confirm the direction of flow is as follows as I've done the job today with the guidance of BVXGTS' above post,

1, From the Transmission to the lower radiator fitting

2, Fluid is then pushed out from the top radiator fitting and to the external trans cooler fitted behind the front bar cover

3, then from the trans cooler to the return line flowing back to the transmission.

The following procedure is for vehicles with rubber terminated trans cooler lines and not the later VS Series II threaded fittings

So to do the job without any mess all one has to do is undo the rubber hose off the top radiator fluid line fitting and then attach a suitable hose snuggly attached to that fitting and feed to a bucket or similar. No need to do anything with the hose you've removed as there's no pressure supplied to that line when it's not fitted. Ensure the transmission has a good 4 litres of new trans fluid in the pan after replacing the filter and using a new pan gasket. Don't over tighten the pan attaching bolts (just nip them up nicely with a bit of feeling) or you'll split the new cork and you'll be back to square one.

With a second operator get them to start the engine while you watch the flow from the attached hose. Make sure you don't run it dry and thus once you've run about 3 litres of old dirty fluid out stop the engine and top up the trans with another 3 and a half litres of new fluid to be safe. Repeat the above mention steps until you see nice clean fluid coming out of the hose and then turn the engine off. Do not rev the engine in any way while pumping fluid out.

Once satisfied with the state of the fluid coming out, replace the disconnected trans cooler hose to the top fitting and then check the fluid level via the red handled dipstick.
Make sure you have enough fluid in the trans so that it's showing the level being up to the "COLD" mark. From there start the engine and let it run and allow it to get up to full operating temperature and have the handbrake firmly on so that the vehicle can't move, also ckock the wheels with large bricks etc just incase. Then put the trans into DRIVE and let the cooling fan cycle in and out, under no circumstances leave the vehicle. This will get the trans hot as it's in drive simulating the vehicle being driven. You can move the selector through the full range of gears while it is being firmly held with both foot brake and hand brake applied. After about 10 minutes of this place the trans selector into PARK and check the fluid level.

This will now be the part of the whole procedure where you raise the level of fluid in the transmission to it's final level. Make small amounts of additions in topping up the fluid (about 500mls at a time) and check after each addition with the trans in PARK. Once you have the fluid showing between the two dots on the stick you will be pretty much right.

One final thought......................Ensure the vehicle is sitting on a flat level surface.


Also, thanks to all the members who've added their comments to this thread. They are all greatly appreciated.


*Edit
PS. Just to clarify the reason why I have heated the transmission up to operating temperature in the driveway is because the vehicle is currently disabled and not registered, basically it's a project between my son and myself with his first car and it's one thing at a time until it's ready to go out on the road.

Hope this clarify's any confusion caused.
 
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