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TRIKKIs 03 VY V6 UTE BUILD JOURNAL THREAD

VYFORI

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TRIKKIs 03 VY V6 TURBO UTE BUILD JOURNAL THREAD

Gday Everyone...

I have been on this website site for a while and thought ill do a maintance / journal and mods log of my ute.
Its stock standard really but its got King Springs super lows on 18" wheels
Tinted Windows 5% rear + quater windows and 25% driver passenger windows.
Still drives like new..



I have done all the maintaine checks with minor ones every 5000km and majors every 10,000 without fail have not missed a maintance check. LogBook

MAKE: & MODEL: 2003 Holden VY V6 Ute
COLOUR: Heron White
KILOMETERS: 170,000
ENGINE TYPE: V6 ECOTEC 3.8Lt
ENGINE MODS: Standard
FORCED INDUCTION: None
EXHAUST: Standard
GEARBOX: T5 Getrag
CLUTCH: Excedy HD Clutch and Lighter Ridged Flywheel
DIFF: Standard
SUSPENSION: Pedders XA Coilovers Front and Back
FRONT: 30mm Swaybar / Strut Bar To Control Arm / Control Arm Lower Inner / Steering Rack & Pinion Mount / Swaybar Upper Link Nothlane Bushes
REAR: 18mm Swaybar / IRS Camber Kit / SwayBar Link / Rear Crossmember mount / Control Arm Outer Nothlane Bushes
POWER: 152kw Standard
BRAKES: Standard
WHEELS: Jaagruti Black 18 x 8 Wheels on Sumitomo HTR Z3 Tyres all Round
INTERIOR: Standard
EXTERIOR: Standard
STEREO: Standard

TRIKKIs VY COSMETIC THREAD HERE:

RIK....
 
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DUK13Y

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Sounds good but probably is better suited for the 'My Ride' section.

Look forward to hearing updates.
 

VYFORI

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Forum / Threads / Websites

Gday i thought i would update you with other threads about Turbo and performance.
that might just help you out when wanting to upgrade your ECOTEC engine and Ute...

Some Turbo Threads
NZ turbo VS
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/another-nz-single-turbo-conversion.114286
Single turbo vs ecotec build
Twin Turbo VS Ecotec Build
V6 ECOTEC SINGLE TURBO KIT

Sponsor Thrreads
Mace Engineering

V6 Related Threads
V6 VY Related Issues



Rik...................................
 
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VYFORI

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Pictures of Excedy and OEM holden clutch / flywheels

Gday Everyone....

Thx mate yeah I could of used my ride thread for this but Since I have no flashy paint jobs no interior just stock
I thought to start this thread with my mechanical upgrades And pictures aswell..

Like I was saying above the only thing under warranty was
The mode button and belt tensioner. I had a new radiator installed around the 130,000km mark
Due to me getting a stone fly up and me tapping peoples Behinds LOL ...

The cost of new radiator was $225 new the Hose $22 and thermostate and gasket was $24 you are
Looking about $145 for labour the radiator is OEM Holden.

The only other thing was a window tensioner and so since I don't have electric windows and
I keep winding up and down After 5 years it gave up the ghost cost $70 for regulator.

Now getting onto the clutch, when I started to feel it start to slip I knew it was time for a upgrade I shop around
and found Exedy does a aftermarket HD clutch
Replacement.. Holdens OEM has a dual mass flywheel and cannot Be machined. $1400+labour too much .....

The excedy HD clutch product code EAP-GMK-7353FHD $1200 new
And probably will cost you about $400 in labour ..
Me my mate and my mechanic mate 3 of us got it done
In 3hrs I payed him $150 labour and my mate a case !

I'm at work at the moment night shift but when I get home
I'll post the new excedy HD clutch with case and flywheel.
Plus I'll show you the OEM clutch and mass flywheel aswell.
The ridged flywheel looks much lighter....

I now have those pictures for you.. i hope you enjoy them....
He is the New Excedy clutch and old OEM holden clutch, can YOU see the difference??

THE OLD HOLDEN OEM CLUTCH AFTER 152,000km


THE NEW EXCEDY HD CLUTCH


What a difference that makes..... when i first got the ute on the road i stalled 3 times getting home because the engage point was heaps high, i would only have to engage it say 3/4 of a foot.
Dont know if all jap cars are like this but when i drove my mates new Suzuki swift sports modle it was the same.... engaging wise... takes alittle bit of time to get use to it,
love it so strong and solid pulls hard all the way up to redline NO SLIPPING NOW...

THE OLD HOLDEN OEM DAUL MASS FLYWHEEL Cannot machine


THE NEW EXCEDY RIDGED FLYWHEEL


The Excedy flywheel is meant to be lighter than the OEM unit.

RIK

ps. You comments would be helpfull thx....
 
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VYFORI

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Gday everyone,

Here is my final photo regarding the cluitch the famous Excedy Pink cover..
EXCEDY PINK COVER what it looks like all together, diddnt take off plastic wrap on clutch yet



Sorry about the above picture my dam flash !!!!!

I have had the car for 2 weeks now since i installed the clutch... No problems...
Feels really good.. Strong, i think its just me but my ute feels abit faster too. lol ???

Took it for a spin on the highway dropping it and goin pulled really good and hard all the way to redine.
Dropped the clutch at a set of lights on my way home and it just lunged forward little
spin of the rear wheels as you do gripped and boom off i went 2nd, 3rd, awersome...

Im really impressed with this clutch worth every cent i have spent !! and now no mass flywheel clutch changes will be less $$ and more easier....

What do other people have as there replacement Aftermarket clutch ???
I think Excedy would be right up there.

One of my front headlight globes went so ill probably be upgrading to Atlantic White 4000k aswell.
Next upgrade is going to be sway bars, strut bar and F/R Nolathane Enhancement Kit $752 plus a rear crossmember mount $190 and a front steering rack / pinion $22

RIK....
 

VYFORI

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i wouldn't bother with the front sway bar, its too much of a bitch to put in really. Rear is easy to replace though - took me about 30mins.
Cool thx mate but why you say that.?
Is that because it's a really labour intensive? Or
Just that it does nothing performance wise ??
Or you just diddnt want to spend time under it !!

Rik
 

danja

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You want to know what you're trying to achieve with swaybars, don't change the front/rear ratio just for the sake of it. Generally you increase front stiffness relative to rear to increase understeer (can actually be desirable in a some cases) and increase rear stiffness relative to front to increase oversteer. If you are happy with the handling balance, you can increase overall stiffness to reduce body roll, but there is such a thing as too stiff.

The front is a pain, you have to remove the front crossmember to get it out.
 

one_and_only2004

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You want to know what you're trying to achieve with swaybars, don't change the front/rear ratio just for the sake of it. Generally you increase front stiffness relative to rear to increase understeer (can actually be desirable in a some cases) and increase rear stiffness relative to front to increase oversteer. If you are happy with the handling balance, you can increase overall stiffness to reduce body roll, but there is such a thing as too stiff.

The front is a pain, you have to remove the front crossmember to get it out.
hence why i never bothered with the front one much - i enjoy the added oversteer.
 
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