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Trouble changing Tensioner pulley

bnevy

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When i changed the tensioner pulley on my VS commodore I managed to stuff the thread and now I cannot tighten the bolt up :mad:
Would I be able to put a bigger bolt thru it to hold it or would this cause trouble because it wont be a reverse thread bolt?
Or how do you take off the part that you connect the pulley too and how hard is it to take off?

Thanks for any help I can get on this.
 

TheForgotten

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hmm putting in a RH thread bolt will just stuff things up. putting in a bigger bolt will mean there's less meat on the tensioner arm, so it could crack easily, same for bearing. shouldn't be too hard to remove the tensioner arm to replace it, but last I heard, holden wanted over $250 for a newbie, so ring a wrecker
 

bnevy

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Thanks for the advice TheForgotten I didn't think that would work.
I am going to get another tensioner arm and try to put it on.
 

ozyrob

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i did the same thing last week ,
i got a new unit from repco for $140 which already has a pully on it so keep the one your brought as a spare

took about 30mins to change , shows you how in the manual , my o-rings on the heater pipes were pretty old so i put new ones on at the same time .
 

Clacker

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ozyrob said:
i did the same thing last week ,
i got a new unit from repco for $140 which already has a pully on it so keep the one your brought as a spare

took about 30mins to change , shows you how in the manual , my o-rings on the heater pipes were pretty old so i put new ones on at the same time .
How much coolant do you need to drain and is it easy to get a tight seal when you reattach the pipe?

Clacks
 

ozyrob

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i just followed what the manual said and disconected the bottom hose from the radiator,
there is nothing complicated about the tensioner , its a complete unit that is held on with 2 studs .
To get a tight seal and not have any leaks you really need to change the 2 orings , before you put the pipes back in you just run a little soap over the orings to lube them up and they slide straight in .
its really straight forward if you have the manual , getting the belt back on the right way is the trickyest bit

shop around there were a few places selling them a bit cheaper but they didnt have them on the shelf , repco was the only ones with 1 on the shelf so i grabed it .
 

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ozyrob said:
To get a tight seal and not have any leaks you really need to change the 2 orings , before you put the pipes back in you just run a little soap over the orings to lube them up and they slide straight in .
its really straight forward if you have the manual , getting the belt back on the right way is the trickyest bit
Thanks for that.

I always struggled with the belt until I saw in my book that its best to put the belt over the tensioner pully and lower it to allow slack to get it over the water pump wheel. I always tried to get it over the tensioner pulley and then remove the spanner which was a bitch.

Clacks
 

bnevy

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VRAddiction said:
i would be VERY cautious changing your tensioner as they are more complicated then they look and im not being mean here but if you stuffed the bolt on the pully go to a mechanics to do the tensioner
Very true VRAddiction. I didn't trust myself either so I ended up getting a mechanic to do it.
 
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