True Trac into M80

[Jolls]

It is definitely a couple of steps forward and one back.

I turned down an old pinion bearing cup as I have been given a correct pinion shim (under the bearing cup) that a diff builder reckons suits the Dana setup. It will be guess work but at least I can now easily R&R the bearing. We will see what happens going forward.

Next was to get the bearing cups out of the adjustable bearing carrier.

I made up a small insert to pull the carrier bearing cups (did take a photo but it was too blurry) and took to it with my trusty two jaw puller.

The insert is sitting inside the adjustable bearing carrier and the puller is centred in a locating indentation.

The first bearing cup came out relatively easy. The second; not so much....

I reground the puller arm and tried again; same result. So I have culminated for the night.

I will have to buy a better quality puller. It has served me well over the years but the arms are definitely some sort of cast chinesium.

Anyone got an alternate removal method?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

 

[Immortality]

Got a welder? Run a couple of beads around the inside of the bearing cup, then turn it over and tap it on a piece of wood.

Out of curiosity, what shim thickness did they recommend? I have a new spicer/dana gear set here so it'll be interesting to see what that requires.

 

[Jolls]

Got a welder? Run a couple of beads around the inside of the bearing cup, then turn it over and tap it on a piece of wood.

Out of curiosity, what shim thickness did they recommend? I have a new spicer/dana gear set here so it'll be interesting to see what that requires.

Yes got a welder - will give that a crack. Thanks - heard of the method before but never used/seen it done.

Shim thickness is 21 thou - 0.54mm. It was his best guess - he told me it should be close but could well be slightly over or under. I will give it a crack and see what I come up with. You just never know - may be spot on too.

Cheers Beers
Jolls

 

[Jolls]

So no joy today. Welded up the inner cup with the MIG, as per videos on YouTube and no movement at all. Welded the broken puller arms to the bearing cup and could not move it initially. Put it in the vice and got a cheater bar on the end of the spanner and then with a big bang it came loose and I was able to pull it out from there.

The inside of the adjustable bearing housing had been scored and it looked as though it had chewed up some metal in there previously. I also think that oxy was used to cut out a bearing cup at some stage based on the marks under the bearing cup. I'm not keen to reuse it.

So now I am chasing a an adjustable bearing housing and the VT flange (which I may have located in Victoria).

 

[Jolls]

I have called a miliion wreckers today and placed an add in find a part and have not had one positive response in relation to purchasing a bearing adjuster. It seems that if the M80s are damaged the toss the lot and if they are OK they are not willing to sell them for parts. I did receive news today that my VZ is a writeoff after hitting two roos (totally expected) and that I can purchase it for salvage value.

As a result I now have a complete M80 to plunder if required (and I may just do so and take my time finding a replacement bearing adjuster down the track). I have found these billet adjustors with an adjustment tool for sale though. Anyone had experience (good or bad) with these?

 

[Jolls]

Build Note:
The Speedmaster® Pontiac GTO 04-06 / Holden VT-VZ M80 / M75 Billet Diff Side Adjusters require oversized bearings - Timken LM603049/LM603011 45.24mm I.D Taper Roller Bearing, 77.78mm O.D.

How do I know? Went to put them in today and the bearings flopped around like fish - didn't read all the specs!

Cheers n Beers
Jolls