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Tune & OTR

Theprojectcar

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Around 260rwkw with those mods on your L77. Don't forget to get the trans tuned too. Personally I'd ask the tuner to maximise the benefit of AFM and also tune it on E85 (if compatable). Others will likely suggest deleting AFM. The main thing is to think about what you want from the car and ask your tuner to factor that into the tune. Are you chasing the peak kw figure, or is tourque and drivablity in the low to midrange and better fuel economy more the goal? Not all tunes are equal...
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Car went in today for it’s tune and OTR and made 360hp. It drives and sounds way better, and feels less compressed. AFM is disabled, didn’t even notice the change in fuel.
 

panhead

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Hey, sorry for the late reply. Car went in today for it’s tune and OTR and made 360hp. It drives and sounds way better, and feels less compressed. AFM is disabled, didn’t even notice the change in fuel.

If it's a good tune it should be more efficient now and therefore use less fuel unless you're getting stuck into her.




.
 

shane_3800

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A mate made 270kw on his l98 with.the same mods.
 

shane_3800

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Different dyno no doubt

Don't know what dyno it was but it was at Gentech Performance here in Canberra. They're a Holden specialist and the local HSV approved workshop.
So what actually is the difference between dynos? roller size? roller grip? friction in the bearings? Because the load cell should be calibrated so all should read the same at the load cell.
 

vr304

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Don't know what dyno it was but it was at Gentech Performance here in Canberra. They're a Holden specialist and the local HSV approved workshop.
So what actually is the difference between dynos? roller size? roller grip? friction in the bearings? Because the load cell should be calibrated so all should read the same at the load cell.
Yea I hear ya, not trying to have a dig but I guarantee if u took the same car on the same day and run it on 3 different Dynos all 3 results would be different probably similar ball park figures but not the same
 

panhead

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Don't know what dyno it was but it was at Gentech Performance here in Canberra. They're a Holden specialist and the local HSV approved workshop.
So what actually is the difference between dynos? roller size? roller grip? friction in the bearings? Because the load cell should be calibrated so all should read the same at the load cell.


The operator can be a big factor in the difference, just the way the car is strapped down will give a different reading and that can be the case when using the same Chassis Dyno.

Difference brands also give different results.

Then throw in factors like barometric and temperature differences at different locations and on different days.

Basically what you want from the dyno is to get a baseline reading before the tune and/or mods then another reading afterwards to show the difference and the change in the power curve.

Different shops are known for 'happy dynos' where they pull bigger numbers than other shops but the reading between the baseline and final isn't necessarily very different or the difference is much wider as the operator has tied down the car to make the tune look better.

Read up on dynos and you'll find just how inaccurate and unreliable they can be and how easy it is to manipulate the readings.



.
 
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Milo 6.0

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Run it at the drags when they open up and let us know how it goes.
What was your economy before the tune,just curious because you mentioned it had bad fuel economy.
I give it a month or two and youll be looking into diff gears:)
 
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