Uniacidz Ride VX SS Monaro Themed

Did you need to be on flat surface or ramps etc?

Bumper have to come off cos on ramps, you have easy access

 

Hey thanks aye.
Usually when a thread has ambitions of turbos and dreamers, theres alot of feedback etc but im just plugging along quietly repairing and just informing others as to what I do and hopefully can help.
Eventually i might OTR and maffless, but the way my insurance is right now and whatnot, I aint risking anything.

As for the oil, yeh Penrite has become a good brand nowadays. See how she goes and of course check levels.
With my oil/addiditve and oil changes etc, usually takes a couple hundred kms for it to settle down and purr like a kitten. Cold starts are nice and quiet.
That moly stuff is good. There is a ProMA MBL8 additive i used to use, but costs a fortune. $30 for 250mls.
But the Moly is very similar.

As for the oil amount, maybe my sump is different as mine take about 5L (there was a change in that period between a larger/smaller sized sump)
4.3L oil, rest additives eg, rear main seal stop leak additive or Lucas Oil Treatment or Moly etc.
Some people argue they do nothing, im of the belief they can assist.

EG, power steering rack leaking about 40mls a day. Not good.
Chucked in Lucas Power Steering treatment and it is not leaking as much. Maybe a drop every 2 days and prob residual anyway.

 

My pump changed April last year to a genuine pump

Also checked it and isn't that

But alas seems to have stopped. Woohoo

Sent from my HTC Aria using Tapatalk II.IV.X

 

Wheels
Beauty is such a hard thing to maintain these days

Got the wheel sorted. $350 sighhh

Ideally was supposed to be 19x8 5x120 +45
New wheel was 19x8 5x120 +35
These wheels hard to get now apparently.

So the inner was shaved down to about 39-40 offset which is now within tolerance.
And have to use the provided nuts and key, as the but holes a fraction too small for my socket.

So have to look at new set of wheel nuts and socket either for just the wheel or whole car.

BUT, its sorted for now anyway, legal and happy and no fricken cracks

EDIT
I may add a 3mm-5mm spacer on the other wheel to compensate for the difference.
Been thinking of it.

 

UPDATE AGAIN

Autoglym Glass Polish
Week 2 of glass polish on inside of windscreen and not one smidge of a hint of fogging up or anything being attracted to impurties or streaks.
I highly recommend this stuff. Also beads water pretty well on external glass.

Wheels
I think the wheel place in arncliffe (Taleb Tyres)got the offset wrong initially. Think its a +40 offset and not +45 for the original wheels. (new wheel offset shaved from +35 to +40)

Took a measuring tape downstairs, and measured from the hub, measured from the guard to tyre, and measured everything i could against the originals.
They are now virtually identical. So no need for a spacer or freaking out.

Only difference i noticed, my original wheel was made in 2006, this new one is recent and the central hub of the wheel is a fraction smaller and holes for the nuts fraction smaller.
Thats the only difference. Like many things over time, they can change slightly.

All in all, happy its done and now no offset issues.

Red Light Camera
Mentioned a while back, went through a red light camera when i saw a green arrow. doh
Happened a week and a half ago, still havent recieved anything in the mail. Think im in the clear.

 

Yeh mine did actually creak. Its the mating materials (where the plastics meet)

Gear selector
Can use some lube, i used Nulon Ezi-Glide and did the trick for me. I did this whilst the gear selector was out, when i was changing the Tractions/Power bulbs.
Also using a sound deadening acoustic insulation inside the gear selector area in the console, behind certain areas and has worked to reduce alot.

Added some adhesive backed foam to certain areas of the gear selector surround as well.

Windows closed, no noises.
Windows slightly rattle when halfway down, left one cos i remember i left the arm of the door handle rod not clipped in. (when i get new speakers, will do it then)
Right one havent opened up the trim, but halfway down possibly same thing, slight rattle. or needs a set of regulator guides (as below linkage)

Window Regulator Glide Slider Clip SET OF 3 Commodore VN VS VR VT VU V VY Slide | eBay

Rear creak passenger door
Rear passenger door used to creak, but was a seal creak against the door.
Since cant get flock tape, from the states but expensive so used the soft side if velcro adhesive, preppd and applied adhesive side to the rubber (like the one on the fronts) and it worked.

Parts/Materials
Also now have some adhesive felt i was gonna use, but havent had the need.
Also left over computer sound deadening.

Basically, adhesive foam (clarke rubber or alike), adhesive soft side of velcro (Spotlight)

Acoustic Insulation Foam is what they use in walls of buildings etc. I got my hands on some and used it in two cars.
No way near sound deadening properties of Dynamat, i didnt want that, but i used it between mating parts/plastics on the car.
Its in the centre console, behind the fascia, behind stereo, behind cluster, under parcel shelf, under carpet in boot, under side moulds in boot.

Get it from hardware stores.

Easy stuff to work with.
Thats what it looks like below, im sure different brancds out there.
QuietStuf | Retroflex Building Supplies for Perth & WA



This may help
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...e-1997-2002/99903-front-window-squeaking.html

And this

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/ve-holden-commodore-2006-2013/149273-door-seal-window-seal.html

And

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...102588-vt-door-shakes-rattles-over-bumps.html

 

Its cos i had a very creaky ford. was shocking.
So tried many things

 

Project Cool Change
Completion Time - 6hrs (rather do it right first time)
Why took so long? never changed a radiator before and had some hiccups and forgot a couple things.

Even though i had a heater tap ready to go, i didnt install as current one working fine. Looks like was changed not long ago anyway and heater hoses look ok.
Also, havent been able to find a VX LS1 hose pack. They only have em for VYLS1 and there is a slight difference.
Like WTF dont they have em for my car.
So hoses on hold for now.

What was done;
1. Flushed cooling system

• ---Chucked running water hose in every crevice, hole, hoses etc
• ---Car running for 30mins, garden hose in top radiator intake and also in reservior which i found to be the best and also had heater running whilst doing this.

2. Changed thermostat to Tridon 86C thermostat. - Check out the old one in the pics

• ---Opens up earlier.
• ---Check out the old one in the pics below.
• ---Took my time with the new one as on old car managed to over tighten and crack thermostat housing and water pump housing and threaded the bolts.

3. Changed radiator - 60,000kms and 3 year warranty $115

• ---Had some fitment issues, whilst radiator fit, screw hole for the fans was slightly off but a large washer fixed that and also seem to foul the fan shroud on the top so removed the a bit of the fan shroud
• ---Had to remove some of the shroud to get the damn intake to fit.
• ---Contacting manufacturer but in the end, got there.
• ---Forgot to put the bottom bump stops on the radtiator, managed to fit them on whilst was still in the car my undoing the radtator clips and lifting it up.

4. Added Nulons RED Long Life Coolant 5Litres then Demineralised water 5litres (my baby aint having no tap water in it, or at least 97% Demineralised and the rest of the system with left over tap water)

• ---Best method i found, again via the reservoir.
• ---Read up they these engine are great as have a vapour line to remopve air from the system
• ---Basically, fill reservoir, start car and watch the levels

4. Reset BCM

• ---Freaked out cos car wouldnt idle and make a screeching noise and thought i seized the water pump but silly me, forgot to place the intake tube onto the throttle body

5. Cleaned up

• ---Absolute mess. Glad its done.

6. Added some Nulon Auto Transmission treatment as a top up for the fluid I lost when taking out the radiator and disconnecting the auto transmission lines.

7. Took for a drive and took some pics of dash and temperature readings.
Very happy with the outcome. Saw it flcutuate form 96C-98C sitting in traffic to cooler air running through car down to 84C
Temp gauge sits a fraction lower then before but now is finally relief that car cooling system is finally fixed.

Took 6 hrs but worth it. Glad i didnt rush it and took my time.
Fun fun fun, never done before and luckily prob wont have to do again for a long time.

Pictures.

Before the storm


Old and the New, bit of a difference there


Old Thermostat. Shocking state


Flush flush and more flush whilst radiator removed


Old repaired radiator. You can see the pepper built up.
Didnt leak though but also had to loosen the reservior cap so system had no pressure.


In car after a quick drive and set to diag mode to read temps

 

Cheers man

 

Radiator install Follow Up
Discovered a small seeping leak from the thermostat to bottom radiator hose at the thermostat side.
Only has a spring clip, so was freaking out about hose replacements etc then remembered that the thermostat has a long connection.

Found a used hose clamp, unscrewed it and wrapped it round the hose and tightened and stopped the leak.
Easy

Car Wash & Polish
Contrary to what people may think, I dont wash it too much. Maybe once every 3 weeks and thats because i park in a dirty carpark at work and everyones cars gets covered in dust. Usually rinse it once a week.
This morning 3am, Wash N Wax, Shammy, Polish and Buff.

Time breakdown for MattaY[s2]
Two Bucket Wash - 7mins
Shammy - 13mins
Polish Application - 10mins
Buffing - 13mins
Running around - 5mins
Total - 48mins

Whilst polish is drying to a haze, tyre shine the wheels and clean up and or do odds and ends.
Pics taken at 630am with a camera phone in poor light. Inside after wash and outside pics were taken at Post Office

Headlights
Phillips xtreme Vision +100 turned up from the UK, $33 including the postage, not bad at all.
H4 Globes for the driving lights
Few weeks back, right Phillips Xtreme bulb blew so replaced with a spare globe
Left bulb is a Phillips still.

Gonna leave it how it is for now and the new Phillips will be used if and when the current left globe dies.

Power Steering Rack + Tablesppon Brake fluid into Power Steering Reservoir trick
Mentioned once before the power steering rack leaking.
Lucas Power Steering treatment worked 80% better

So read up, a trick to use is a tablespoon of brake fluid into the power steering reservoir, drive it a bit to circulate and then leave it overnight
Brake fluid contains additives to expand seals and its in a concentrated form.
Its also a hydralic fluid like power steering fluid.

Gotta say, been about 5 days now, and its worked. Not one drop of power steering fluid.
Its a fresh genuine pump installed a year ago with new hoses so yeh. Working to a treat.

BTW, also read up on its a trick used by mechanics to stop leaks and charge people a small fortune.

Anyway, pics