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Update on Vs v6 statesman heater not working (posting new thread as i can't add to old one?)

Brokencommo

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(My heater isn't working on the old stato all lines get hot, heater tap is working as normal just flushed cooling system and heater core doesn't appear to be blocked. Was thinking it could be something to do with the vacuum as when car is under load the vents change from straight on to aiming at my feet by themselves? Was hoping someone could give me some more insight as to what i need to fix.) - original post

I have since replaced the vacuume solenoid valve, heater is still not working am thinking about maybe shotgunning a heater tap at it cause I am out of ideas was hoping someone might be able to guide my shotguns a bit
 

vs-lover

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One thing that needs to be asked and that is have you tried disconnecting both heater hoses and placing a garden hose hose in one end to see if you actually have water flow ability ?

Also an apology on behalf of myself on how your last thread ended up. It should've never gone to those depths.
 

losh1971

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You need to figure out the vacuum issues or whatever is causing the vents to switch by themselves. Try feeling the heater core pipes at the wall, both should be fairly hot. You can reverse flush the core but on these old buses it does't always unblock them. Seeing the water flow out of the pipes is not always an indication it's not partially blocked either, as the water will take the path of least resistance. These old cores have problems with dry blocking, especially if they haven't been working for some time. Unfortunately most of the population don't think it's worth spending much on maintaining old Commodores.
 

vs-lover

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Hang on there old Loshy...............it's a Statesman !




But in all fairness I feel that seeing if the core has the ability to flow correctly would be a good starting point. I have issues with our acclaim which suddenly one day just didn't get as hot at the air outlets than it used to. The pipes get stinkin hot but the air doesn't until the car is absolutely fully hot. This suggests to me something inside the heater box is allowing cold air to mix in with the hot and thus give out warm air opposed to hot air. So yes I believe your point is valid but checking flow rate out of the core is one of those boxes that needs to be ticked off first.
 

losh1971

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Yes and for the first 10-12 years it would have been cared for. Unfortunately most Statos are cheap now and don't get the treatment they deserve. Not saying the OP is not looking after it, on the contrary most JC members take pride in their cars. Trouble is if its been through a few hands those before the OP more than likely DGAS....
 

Brokencommo

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One thing that needs to be asked and that is have you tried disconnecting both heater hoses and placing a garden hose hose in one end to see if you actually have water flow ability ?

Also an apology on behalf of myself on how your last thread ended up. It should've never gone to those depths.
Yea mate first thing I did was flush whole cooling system and checked flow. No blockages in heater core or galleries as far as I could tell. Can recheck tomorrow arvo if u think is related? And no stress about the last thread man
One thing that needs to be asked and that is have you tried disconnecting both heater hoses and placing a garden hose hose in one end to see if you actually have water flow ability ?

Also an apology on behalf of myself on how your last thread ended up. It should've never gone to those depths.
 

losh1971

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Brokencommo

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So next logical step if heater core is blocked and cannot be unblocked is to replace that? And would all coolant pipes still be getting hot if that is the case?
 

losh1971

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But in all fairness I feel that seeing if the core has the ability to flow correctly would be a good starting point. I have issues with our acclaim which suddenly one day just didn't get as hot at the air outlets than it used to. The pipes get stinkin hot but the air doesn't until the car is absolutely fully hot. This suggests to me something inside the heater box is allowing cold air to mix in with the hot and thus give out warm air opposed to hot air. So yes I believe your point is valid but checking flow rate out of the core is one of those boxes that needs to be ticked off first.

And this is another issue they seem to have. You have probably seen my thread on heater problems. I turn on AC and the heater goes from fairly hot to lukewarm. Plus it needs to be coolant to be pretty hot and on recycle in the Tas winter to keep me warm. This is another reason i am going full overhaul, heater box checked for function, resealed, new core and evap. I see no other way to get it back working as it would from factory. All up i could be looking at another $1000 but it will be worth it with sub zero temps approaching fast.
 
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