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bangers

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For everyone to add tips on upgrading. don't put CAI, zorst etc. for people who have genuine GOOD tips. I'll keep this thread updated as i research for upgrading my engine. Feel free to disagree.

1. N/A runners have better flow than turbo ones but are longer.

2. The N/A flywheel is better than a turbo one as you can get greater clamping clutch kits than turbo ones. N/A flywheels are 240 O/D while turbo are 250 O/D. RB26dett are 240 O/D as well which is why greater clamping kits are available.

3. Lightened flywheels are available in 2 weights... 5.5kg and 4.5kg. they will lower your bottom end torque though but allow your engine to rev easier. they will NOT INCREASE rev range.

all i can think of for now.

PS. Can get new kick panel carpets Retail about $30 a pair plus freight.
 

bangers

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also don't run an LSD diff if you are pushing 500hp upwards as you'll kill it. Which is what i'm hoping to get. 500hp that is.
 

ucwepn

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Port matching the manifolds to the head will improve flow. Shaving the head will give a higher compression ratio. Balancing all the pistons to make them weigh the same will help the engine gain some balance and harmony (porsche and bmw balance their engines).
 

bangers

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i'm told not to port match the inlet if you turbo the vehicle. you need to create pressure. its forced induction so not necessary to port match inlet. unless you keep it n/a of course.
 

VL Berlina 5speed

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advance the cam one tooth, holden retared it one tooth when they got the motor off nissin (apparently) causing the valves to be open for less time. therfore lossing power

i was told this by a mate but not sure if its totaly true

ive also read on a thread somewherer that its better to get your cam regrinded then getting a aftermarket 1 as its easyer to tune and the aftermarket 1s for vls are not worth the money
 

bangers

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i've heard that about the cam tooth as well. anyone know for sure?
 

SMOKN_LJ

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yeah i was told buy a guy who has worked as a holden mechanic for 20 years that nissan set the cam gear 1 tooth out from factory so when changing a timing belt they got inreased one tooth.
 

bangers

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Another tip..... when increasing power with a manual box you should get a steel flywheel as the standard ones can shatter. Moly flywheels are shatter proof to 18,000 rpm.

Also heard you should use flywheel with pressed on ring gear as when the ring gear wears its easier to replace. i wouldn't have thought ring gears would wear often as there's so many teeth but supposedly they only wear in 3 places. The other side of the coin being that the pressed type are made of different metal to the flywheel so expand and contract differently to the actual flywheel and probably wear more.
 

bangers

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just spoke with PBR and they said that the VT conversions aren't very good as the 1" master cylinder can't handle it and makes the pedal spongy. they do a VN Grp A with corvette calipers for about $3500. Too expensive in my opinion.

VN Grp A calipers with 4 spot calipers fit straight on as they have the same struts and don't change your wheel offset. Considering they use the same pads as a VL n/a theres not much point except the rotors are bigger for show.
 

bangers

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well i just got a second motor to start building so i can do a straight swap. once my rego is out of the way i'm sending the crank to get heat treated. plus the block to get acid dipped and crack tested, tunnel (line) bored and cylinders bored and honed. the pistons (which will be teflon coated *hypertech's* i think) will be weighed and balanced. The cam will be ground to my specs and head work done. I'm thinking of not going intercooled as it increases turbo lag and not as streetable but that idea might change. I may be going a nine inch LSD with 28 spline disc rear end for $800 when the bloke gets out of jail. I'll be starting to strip the block tomorrow and will be throwing out what i don't need. Fingers crossed for me over the next few months boys.
 
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