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UPGRADING TO VF HSV 4 SPOT BRAKES

Frosty005

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Hi , just question from people that have upgraded their SS or SSV standard brakes to HSV brakes ….have you noticed improved performance in regards to less distance required to stop the vehicle?
I have assumed that they would but doing more research I’m finding conflicting info stating that the benefits are more for better performance in the way of continued braking and having less brake fade equaling better performance but not in the way of better stopping power or stopping the car quicker under normal street driving ? They go on to say the physics don’t allow bigger brakes to stop the car sooner which I feel sounds odd ?
Also people that are in the know with rims and offsets, would rims that clear the VE HSV brakes also clear the VF HSV 4 SPOT red callipers or do they need an different offset ?
Thanks in advance .
 

Immortality

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Please beware when posting new threads that they are in the correct section, technical threads don't belong in the Showcase area.
 

Forg

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In response to the question about one-off stops, yeah I reckon that with the ABS system etc you'd get similar braking distances once for an SV6 and a GTS. Just not again & again.

I don't know the Adelaide hills at all well, but there are certainly long-ish downhill passes south of Sydney where in normal road use you'd feel the extra braking performance of an HSV over an SS. It's not like you're about to plough off the mountain or anything like that, people make it safely down those roads all the time in unsafe under-braked vehicles such as brand new dual-cab utes; but you'd feel the fade in the SS sooner than the HSV.
 

hjtrbo

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Random, but I've always wanted to upgrade my R8 4 pots to the GTS 6 pots just for looks. I feel there is a possibility we could make a deal here. Is red ok with brand new still in box genuine HSV pads and rotors?
 

mpower

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Random, but I've always wanted to upgrade my R8 4 pots to the GTS 6 pots just for looks. I feel there is a possibility we could make a deal here. Is red ok with brand new still in box genuine HSV pads and rotors?

The W1's brakes are pretty too.
 

Skylarking

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Hi , just question from people that have upgraded their SS or SSV standard brakes to HSV brakes ….have you noticed improved performance in regards to less distance required to stop the vehicle?
If it’s the shortest one-off stopping distance that floats your boat, something which keeps your family safe of the roads, the best bang for buck is to spend your money on real good tyres. That’s because no matter how great the brakes are at stopping the car, the limiting factor will always be the rubber contact patches on the road (which is where getting yje best tyres comes into its own).

If it’s multiple repeated stops on a race track that floats your boat, then big thick vented rotors and multi-piston callipers would provide a benefit due to the heat rejection capabilities of those big rotors.

If it’s aesthetics, and money isn’t an issue, go for both :p

PS: not all brake pads are the same so getting quality high friction coefficient pads for your standard brakes would complement the new sticky tyres. Such new pads and tyres may be more than enough to get the road behaviour you may be looking for.
 

RevNev

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Bigger brakes will often pull up with less pedal pressure giving the impression they'll stop the car in a shorter distance but Skylarking's post (above) say's it all. On a race track the braking barrier is brake fade and boiling brake fluid with continuous hard stops and as the race progresses with small (inefficient) brakes, you need to brake earlier to counter the fade and your increasing lap times and slowing down. Bigger brakes and better cooling will allow you to brake at minimum distances from the corner for the entire race or they'll reduce the fade and the car will be faster over race distance.

Optimum brake size, fade and boiling fluid can depend on a driver's style were some drivers in the same car will have brake issues and other's don't. Trail brakers who learn that racing karts and open wheelers are the hardest on brakes when switching to production based cars I've found.
 

Skylarking

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Yeah, racing is interesting cause most classes have rather capable brakes that don’t fade and the limit becomes driver skill and tyre adhesion which is how it should be… makes for better viewing…

On public roads, in another context, the limiting factor is actually the driver. Many tests have shown that drivers simply don’t press hard enough on the brakes to achieve the shortest stopping distance in an emergency. Heck some panic and don't even brake or steer away from danger. You really need to have your wit’s about you especially in the morning rush as it’s the road equivalent of the zombi apocalypse (slow moving, half dead and wanting to kill you)…

So maybe another performance enhancing spend is a good strong coffee before the drive to work :p It’s just not as cool or as visible as 6 pot callipers and big dark carbon ceramic disks and pads :cool:
 

Skylarking

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Also people that are in the know with rims and offsets, would rims that clear the VE HSV brakes also clear the VF HSV 4 SPOT red callipers or do they need an different offset ?
Not sure about rims but changing brakes will require engineering approval if the brakes were not an option on your model variant (the variants being evoke, ss, redline, etc). Using Brembos on a VF could/may be easier just cause it’s used in other model variants from that year. But whatever the case, best talk to a certifying engineer before you start to spend dollars…

There is already 2 long threads from @Ron Burgundy on the subject of VF brake upgrades which IIRC discusses engineering, brake parts, wheels and all such factors. Worth a read if you want to go down that path… They shouldn’t be hard to find those threads…
 
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