Upgrading VE Stock Speakers - How To

[Matty.kerr]

Hi, great post thanks very much this will come handy very soon. Just checking i am about to install the caprice speakers in my sv6. I know that the sv6 does not have any subs in it as stock. Considering this will, i be able to put two in the parcel shelf, is there the room? Cheers

 

[Fun_Bucket]

Isn't the shelf the same metal in the whole range regardless of spec? If it is you'll probably find some covers tack welded in like previous models.

 

[racka]

Any idea if these would be worthwhile replacements for the subs in the parcel shelf?

Polk Audio MM840DVC 8 Mobile Monitor Subwoofer - $179.00

or these ones

http://www.elite-electronics.com.au...roduct_info&cPath=79_123_124&products_id=1413

 

[kidchameleon]

Any idea if these would be worthwhile replacements for the subs in the parcel shelf?

Polk Audio MM840DVC 8 Mobile Monitor Subwoofer - $179.00

or these ones

JL Audio ZR800CW 8 Subwoofer - $255.00

Hi Racka,

I reckon to get the best out of the system is to just sound deaden your boot first, with something like dynamat, cover every hole except the air vent and the holes for the retainer clips ;p and stick the deadening on tinny metal only (2 or 3 large sheets) if you don't want to go all out and save weight, around the current subs, rear parcel shelf, basically make your boot to act like a subwoofer box.

I don't think you will get the most out of it by changing the sub only and no sound deadening, it may even rattle. When you have more budget, buy a proper 10 or 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box and remove the stock one.

 

[marxve]

I have a 2006 ve r8. Will the removal of the door be pretty much the same? I am lost at the moment on how to get the rear door panels off. Any info much appreciated.Pics would be better if you have any

Thanks

 

[Matt_27]

I have a 2006 ve r8. Will the removal of the door be pretty much the same? I am lost at the moment on how to get the rear door panels off. Any info much appreciated.Pics would be better if you have any

Thanks

Yes ur doors will be the same and the back doors have two screws at the bottom 2 under the armrest i think and then clips the whole way round. Pretty much its the same as doing the front door. Then ya just gotta undo the window switch clip that is easy enough and ya done.

 

[racka]

Hi Racka,

I reckon to get the best out of the system is to just sound deaden your boot first, with something like dynamat, cover every hole except the air vent and the holes for the retainer clips ;p and stick the deadening on tinny metal only (2 or 3 large sheets) if you don't want to go all out and save weight, around the current subs, rear parcel shelf, basically make your boot to act like a subwoofer box.

I don't think you will get the most out of it by changing the sub only and no sound deadening, it may even rattle. When you have more budget, buy a proper 10 or 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box and remove the stock one.

Thanks for that. I'm planning on dynamatting the doors and the boot as I change the speakers over. I know SFA about car audio though - my experience is limited to swapping out the speakers in my VS and doing the odd head unit install. If I was to do the dynamat, would the replacement woofers I linked to be any good? Pretty sure I'm going to use Polk db series speakers for the doors, so I'm sorted there, just not sure what to do about the subs. I'd prefer not to stick a 12" cone in a box in the boot as I want to keep the ski hatch available and I've got a toddler so with prams and stuff I don't want to lose boot space.

Also, do I NEED to run an amp for the door speakers if I upgrade, or will the headunit be OK?

 

[kidchameleon]

Thanks for that. I'm planning on dynamatting the doors and the boot as I change the speakers over. I know SFA about car audio though - my experience is limited to swapping out the speakers in my VS and doing the odd head unit install. If I was to do the dynamat, would the replacement woofers I linked to be any good? Pretty sure I'm going to use Polk db series speakers for the doors, so I'm sorted there, just not sure what to do about the subs. I'd prefer not to stick a 12" cone in a box in the boot as I want to keep the ski hatch available and I've got a toddler so with prams and stuff I don't want to lose boot space.

Also, do I NEED to run an amp for the door speakers if I upgrade, or will the headunit be OK?

about whether the replacement woofer will be good or not, TBH i am not quite sure, haven't heard one myself, better ask some people in mobileelectronics forum for some reviews, but basically any decent priced speaker/woofer if installed properly (seal the holes in the boot, mounted properly, deadened the panels, gain on the amp is set correctly if you're using aftermarket one) will outperform any expensive speaker/woofer that's not installed properly (on tinny panel, with air leaks, etc)

as for the amp, it depends on the volume you play your music and a set of splits that you're getting, technically under-powering the speakers are not good, but if you don't play it out loud, then your factory headunit will be good enough. if you do want to get the best out of it, yes you do need to run an amp, just run the amp for the front speakers and the sub, don't worry about rear doors unless the rear seats passengers want to enjoy it too

 

[omegaman21]

Well I've just started replacing my speakers today... only taken 2 years to get to it!

Imagine my surprise... after all this talk about 30W 2ohm speakers... I've removed my rears to discover I have 20W 4ohm! Component number 92158088. Mine is a 2009 MY10 SS.

I've yet to do the front, but this has pleased me considering I've bought Alpine SPS-610 (80W / 4ohm) for the rear and SPS-610C for the front. Also, the SPS-610 just slot straight in... you do have to use the spacer provided, but attach that to the plastic pod and then the speaker to the spacer... no other modifications required. I'll update once I've completed the front.

PS - thanks for the write up... it has helped a lot!

Edit: I've now completed the job... the tweeters were a bit of an issue but I found that the Alpine ones fit on top of the factory ones with some special glue and this was able to be screwed back in... it cleared the trim just.

It was interesting to see all speakers front and rear in the door were the same, and only 20W 4ohm (not 30W 2ohm as described earlier).

One of the problems I can see is the plastic sheet inside the front doors... it tends to rattle and go crazy at higher volumes so I'll invest in some matting soon. Apart from that it sounds sweet

Hey mate,
how does the typs s speakers sound?
is there a improvement in bass and overall sound quality?

 

[kato128]

What are peoples impressions of swapping the 2ohm speakers with 4ohm? Are they a lot quieter? Asking coz my series 2 came with the 2ohm 30w jobbies and 6" 2ohm speakers seem the be rare as chooks teeth.