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Upgrading VE Stock Speakers - How To

kidchameleon

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What are peoples impressions of swapping the 2ohm speakers with 4ohm? Are they a lot quieter? Asking coz my series 2 came with the 2ohm 30w jobbies and 6" 2ohm speakers seem the be rare as chooks teeth.

it will be a little bit quieter, like when you normally play it at around 16 then you may need to crank it up to 20 to get same volume. as long as u don't play it really loud and under power the speaker then it should be fine. FYI, I am using crescendo opus 7B with 8ohm. best to check with this shop www.fhrxstudios.com and have a read some of their FAQ section too.
 
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kato128

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it will be a little bit quieter, like when you normally play it at around 16 then you may need to crank it up to 20 to get same volume. as long as u don't play it really loud and under power the speaker then it should be fine. FYI, I am using crescendo opus 7B with 8ohm. best to check with this shop Fhrx Studios - Audio / Visual Specialists and have a read some of their FAQ section too.

OK well I normally listen at 14 volume and usually crank to 22-24 when I want it loud. So assuming it's not logarithmic that puts me at 18 for normal and 28 which is pretty close to the max of 30. Is that going to kill stuff? or am I going to have to be careful?
 

kidchameleon

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OK well I normally listen at 14 volume and usually crank to 22-24 when I want it loud. So assuming it's not logarithmic that puts me at 18 for normal and 28 which is pretty close to the max of 30. Is that going to kill stuff? or am I going to have to be careful?

i guess everyone's definition of loud is different haha.. so for me if it's over 80dB, it's already quite loud. i would limit it 85dB max. before I changed my front speakers, I noticed that the stock speakers distort around volume 20 (IIRC). yeah it's not logarithmic and the volume would depend on the power efficiency, ohm, spec of the speakers basically.

if you do change your front speakers, increase the volume slowly and listen, if your new speakers sound fine and don't seem to struggle or distort then it's good enough. if somehow when you reach max volume and it's still crystal clear and it's not loud enough, then you need an amp installed. hope that helps.
 

Bilbs

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I have some stockies if your still interested
 

nitro91

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does the ve ute come with factory subwoofer?
 
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Any suggestions for a sportwagon ? My International does not have the centre speaker of the subs. Want to change the front door speakers asap as the passenger one is distorting. Need to know what to get for now, as I don't have the $$$ to do all the speakers right now.
 

kato128

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Any suggestions for a sportwagon ? My International does not have the centre speaker of the subs. Want to change the front door speakers asap as the passenger one is distorting. Need to know what to get for now, as I don't have the $$$ to do all the speakers right now.

I've been lookin at Polk DB series speakers and probably going to go with those since lots of my mates and all the audio guys seem to have them in their cars. They seem like they'll fill in the massive midrange hole in the stock system pretty well. That said I've got an SSV sedan so I've got the rear parcel shelf subs so down low isn't too bad on it whereas the wagon might be a different beast entirely. Best bet is to get your audio people to let you listen to whatever you like the look of and make the decision by what you think sounds best. I was pretty surprised at the difference between speakers that are rated almost identically.
 

boneart

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UPDATE:
Just added a small section at the bottom of the original write up about a little 5 minute fix to help with the poor sound quality of the stock rear subs.
It involves reversing the wires on the subs which shouldn't work but it did for me so its worth a try.
For my SSV the difference in bass was huge.
 

The 10th Doctor

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I'm changing over the speakers at the moment, and having a few issues:

1) I can't seem to get the tweeter wire through the kick panel or anything! I've only tried on the passenger side so far, but it seems like the white thing with the fuses are stopping my guide wire from getting through. I was thinking of just using one of vent clip hole things (like this one, but slightly higher) but I guess this isn't the neatest way. Does anyone have any hints?

2) How do I mount the crossovers in the location the OP provided? To start with, I can't seem to get it to stick on due to the door plastic there and even if I did, I'd be worried about it moving. I'd rather not use superglue... again, does anyone have a suggestion?

Cheers guys!
 

Muke

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I'm changing over the speakers at the moment, and having a few issues:

1) I can't seem to get the tweeter wire through the kick panel or anything! I've only tried on the passenger side so far, but it seems like the white thing with the fuses are stopping my guide wire from getting through. I was thinking of just using one of vent clip hole things (like this one, but slightly higher) but I guess this isn't the neatest way. Does anyone have any hints?

Oh yeah that side was a bugger for me too. What I ended up doing was not using guide "wire", but a really massive zip tie (as in about a foot long). Being a bit more flexible and wanting to straighten as well as being non-metal you can jamb it in and wiggle about etc. From memory I think I found it easier to push the guide through from the inside of the car, tape the speaker wire to it from the door side and pull back through. Yes a fiddly bit of the job. May also suggest wearing your lucky undies and holding you tongue to the left.

I'm changing over the speakers at the moment, and having a few issues:
2) How do I mount the crossovers in the location the OP provided? To start with, I can't seem to get it to stick on due to the door plastic there and even if I did, I'd be worried about it moving. I'd rather not use superglue... again, does anyone have a suggestion?

I didn't use the same spot as the OP for the crossovers. As I was installing a sub and amp, I put the crossovers in the boot mounted next to the amp. It seemed easier than getting the things in the door considering the option of next to the amp (custom box in boot that holds sub, amp, crossovers). I was considering using double sided tape and zip ties to reduce any movement or vibration, but it just didn't want to sit perfectly in any orientation. Also I was thinking they'd be easier to get to to adjust being in the boot - but really that's a bit of a wank as you won't adjust them more than once while setting up (if at all).

Good luck. :)
 
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