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Upgrading VE Stock Speakers - How To
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evoke06
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Pro writeup cheers
Muke
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Really impressed with the write-up. No bull or pretending you know more than you do. Thanks. Just starting an upgrade now, thanks in part to your inspiration. Done a few in other cars, but wasn't so sure about the VE without having a manual.
Noticed though that in my SV6 the speakers are 4ohm, not 2. I think that'd be more of an issue putting 2ohm replacing 4ohm if the SV6 headunit isn't stable at that resistance. Not that it matters for me, especially as I'm replacing the headunit. An engineering company in Melbourne makes a new console that replaces the stock HVAC so you can put in a 2-din headunit. Doesn't arrive until Tues, so we'll see how complex that is to wire up. Admittedly I don't think it looks quite as good as stock (buttons only), but I can put in a new headunit of my choice. Mainly with pre-outs so I can properly also install my sub and amp I had in the VN.
Do a search for "ve fascia" and you'll find videos and various people who sell it.
So now to replace all the wiring for the speakers. Yikes. Only going to run the rear speakers off the h/u, amp for the sub and splits, but figure may as well replace those wires while the car is apart.
Calais57 - Look, I'm no expert. Far from it. But in my VN I made up some pods out of MDF, covered them in vinyl and just screwed them onto the door trim. Sort of in the map pockets (which I cut down). Sounds dodgy as, but I had no problems with them at all. For this car I think I'm just going to make spacer plates out of mdf and put a little padding between the mdf and the plastic pods. That way I wont have to trim them at all. Might ditch the plastic in the rear if space is an issue as that's pretty easy. However as the front isn't a flat surface, I am stumped as how to make them fit straight to the door. I have seen people use poly-pipe and expander-foam in days gone past. But that was more for speakers mounted onto the trim. Lets just hope there's enough room to the trim with spacers/adaptors (the splits came with adaptor plates, but the basket still hits).... btw- those adaptors that came with it are only 6mm plastic, so I guess you don't have to be very thick at all.
If only 6 1/2" meant the same for all brands. Geez, they even are different in the same brands. I have some old pioneer and sony that appear to be the same size as the stock. I know the Rockford Fosgate were larger in the old car. And now the new Alpine are also slightly larger.
Noticed though that in my SV6 the speakers are 4ohm, not 2. I think that'd be more of an issue putting 2ohm replacing 4ohm if the SV6 headunit isn't stable at that resistance. Not that it matters for me, especially as I'm replacing the headunit. An engineering company in Melbourne makes a new console that replaces the stock HVAC so you can put in a 2-din headunit. Doesn't arrive until Tues, so we'll see how complex that is to wire up. Admittedly I don't think it looks quite as good as stock (buttons only), but I can put in a new headunit of my choice. Mainly with pre-outs so I can properly also install my sub and amp I had in the VN.
Do a search for "ve fascia" and you'll find videos and various people who sell it.So now to replace all the wiring for the speakers. Yikes. Only going to run the rear speakers off the h/u, amp for the sub and splits, but figure may as well replace those wires while the car is apart.
Calais57 - Look, I'm no expert. Far from it. But in my VN I made up some pods out of MDF, covered them in vinyl and just screwed them onto the door trim. Sort of in the map pockets (which I cut down). Sounds dodgy as, but I had no problems with them at all. For this car I think I'm just going to make spacer plates out of mdf and put a little padding between the mdf and the plastic pods. That way I wont have to trim them at all. Might ditch the plastic in the rear if space is an issue as that's pretty easy. However as the front isn't a flat surface, I am stumped as how to make them fit straight to the door. I have seen people use poly-pipe and expander-foam in days gone past. But that was more for speakers mounted onto the trim. Lets just hope there's enough room to the trim with spacers/adaptors (the splits came with adaptor plates, but the basket still hits).... btw- those adaptors that came with it are only 6mm plastic, so I guess you don't have to be very thick at all.
If only 6 1/2" meant the same for all brands. Geez, they even are different in the same brands. I have some old pioneer and sony that appear to be the same size as the stock. I know the Rockford Fosgate were larger in the old car. And now the new Alpine are also slightly larger.
Troyziee
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Anyone able to tell me the maximum depth speaker I can use?
OP says stocks are 70mm deep, ones I have just purchased are 92mm deep, worried that they are not going to fit under the door trims...
OP says stocks are 70mm deep, ones I have just purchased are 92mm deep, worried that they are not going to fit under the door trims...
Muke
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Ok Troyziee, just did a quick measure since I've got the doors apart atm. From the stock pods to the window bracket is 79mm. And it looks like that runs pretty much dead in the middle behind the hole. Not sure how much of a spacer you could put in before the trim panel becomes an issue. I doubt any more than about 12mm, though I haven't really checked that properly. I just stuck a piece of grass through the grill & subtracted from that the distance to the inside of the trim. It might just be possible to get them to fit, but damn it'll be close. Have to clean up the little bits of plastic they use to line up the grill to the trim, and watch the actual bracket the window is in, not the rail or the glass.
Best of luck mate.
Troyziee
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Awesome, cheers guys!!
My issue is more in the front of the speaker, from top of the basket to the door trim, as it's a weird tweeter setup. I've attached the specs so you can understand what I mean.
Also forgot to mention, this is for the rear doors, fronts should be fine hopefully... :s
My issue is more in the front of the speaker, from top of the basket to the door trim, as it's a weird tweeter setup. I've attached the specs so you can understand what I mean.
Also forgot to mention, this is for the rear doors, fronts should be fine hopefully... :s
Muke
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Aha, ok mate it is do-able. There's about 20mm I believe between the inside of the grill to the standard pod, which isn't quite enough. Also the internal diameter of the pod is just under 134mm (that's the size of my basket and I had to slightly grind it out. 132mm maybe). The external diameter is about 150mm. So I'm guessing you will have to make a spacer and ditch the stock plastic pod.The hole in the door itself was 150mm I think. Just measured it and saw it was big enough, but forgot the actual measurement. Well that was the front, assuming the rear is the same. I didn't measure the actual rear's as I've just done that myself and put the speakers in. Pretty easy, especially if you've got a jigsaw.
I just got a piece of paper against the door and traced the flat area, used that as a template on some mdf. Then flipped that one over as a template for the other door. Put some padding between the door & mdf and all looks sweet. Actually it looks ordinary, but the trim will hide it.
As you can see I moved the hole down a little in order to keep the edges as thick as possible, since I had room. But you don't have to. Oh and that's before I glued the padding on the back...
I just got a piece of paper against the door and traced the flat area, used that as a template on some mdf. Then flipped that one over as a template for the other door. Put some padding between the door & mdf and all looks sweet. Actually it looks ordinary, but the trim will hide it.
As you can see I moved the hole down a little in order to keep the edges as thick as possible, since I had room. But you don't have to. Oh and that's before I glued the padding on the back...
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Muke
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Ok guys, need a little advice. Now I've got the sub/amp box fitting. Had to surface mount the tweeters in the dash as that's about the only place I could get them to fit. So my question is, is there any reason not to install the crossovers in the boot next to the amp??? Wondering if that might be easier/better than drilling into the door. They are reasonably heavy. What have others done?
btw- Centre console fascia/hvac controls and headunit arrived. With about 30 wires and 7 plugs I think it was on the console and 1 page diagram, I'm having one of those "oh my god, what have I gotten myself into" moments.... then all the wires & attachments for the h/u.... wow. Should be interesting.
btw- Centre console fascia/hvac controls and headunit arrived. With about 30 wires and 7 plugs I think it was on the console and 1 page diagram, I'm having one of those "oh my god, what have I gotten myself into" moments.... then all the wires & attachments for the h/u.... wow. Should be interesting.
