ben315vz
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A while ago in another thread (can't remember which one), I got flamed because I said that sometimes I roughen up brake rotors with sandpaper instead of machining them.
I just found post on another forum that I found quite interesting. Please read it, and discuss.
Resurfacing Brake Rotors
Since I am constantly reading posts where this question is asked I thought I would make a post devoted to it.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
I just found post on another forum that I found quite interesting. Please read it, and discuss.
Resurfacing Brake Rotors
Since I am constantly reading posts where this question is asked I thought I would make a post devoted to it.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
