Stato-licious
Dylan
- Joined
- May 5, 2012
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Age
- 31
- Location
- Perth wa
- Members Ride
- 1992 VQ 5.0L
So, it's a 1992 VQ statesman, but it has a VS 5.0 litre (not that it makes much difference.). The problem is that the car stalls after warming up. When you first start it up it idles fine but on the rare occasion will go up and down between 700-1200 (1k revs usually being a steady cold start idle). If the idles being fine the car after being driven for 5-10 minutes will start playing up. (Auto tranny) After being driven and you start coming to a stop, (usually gearing down from 3-2 or 2-1) the cars revs will just plummet to a stall (sometimes can be saved by feathering the accelerator leading to flying through the corner aha.). After it stalls the car usually takes a minute or 5 of cooling down then it will merrily start like nothing happened but then the accelerator needs to be kept on slightly otherwise it will stall from what seems like low revs. I've replaced the ignition module, (before I did it would take hours until it would start again so I'm guessing it half fixed the problem... Or fixed one of many problems ha.) before I replaced my friend suggested pouring cold water in front of the engine to cool the CAS, it started after doing it them a few days later I found out that V8's don't have CAS only the V6's do, so I thought that was a bit odd. The Ignition Leads and Coil were replaced and the dizzy was retimed 7 odd months ago. I will be replacing the Distributor tomorrow hopefully (invade it being the Hall effect, so ill update that.). I've read many things throughout different threads, starting from vacuum leaks, faulty/dirty throttle body, MAP sensor, IAC etc etc, seems like many things can cause something like this. Dealing with the whole fuel to air ratio with spark etc.). What hoses must I check for the vacuum leak? And I do have a slight rocker cover oil leak, bottom 2 alen key bolts are missing. Any small things I clean or any DIY checks I can do to various parts? I did the fault code check and it read 15 but then I took out the 'engine' relay fuse (i think it's called, front small fuse box adjacent to the battery) and now it's reading '12' satisfactory running, so I may have reset it, it's been driven after that so I might re-check it.
Sorry for the long read, I just want to be specific to keep any mis-diagnosing at a minimum, cheers.
Sorry for the long read, I just want to be specific to keep any mis-diagnosing at a minimum, cheers.