Vb bodywork and paint

[NZR8]

I have just always liked the vb, also they are less common then vh etc, I love steel bumper commodores and always have since I was younger.

the boot has no rust and the panelbeater commented that the car was extremely straight and clean compared to others he had seen, over here in nz it is very hard to find something clean with no rust and if you do they want mega bucks for them and generally you will find they actually still aren’t 100% rust free and even the ones that supposedly are have stuffed paint that needs a respray.

I only paid $1500 for this car so can afford to put a bit of money into it but don’t want it spiraling into ridiculous amounts and it never ending up finished.

 

[Vin999]

Its obvious why the car was cheap. Sounds like your going to do it, just a bit hesitant. Its a worthwhile project to do and to keep cost down, you have to do almost all the work yourself, and think about your best/cheapest way to proceed so you can finish and enjoy it. Many have started similar projects and didn’t realize whats involved with all the items needed to replace and some ended up with a shed anchor or wrecked the car for $.

Don’t forget other costs probably needed if the other stuff is as bad as the body ....... like complete car suspension bushes, new springs/shockers, maybe radiator, maybe motor, gearbox overhaul, maybe new diff and complete brake overhaul, new exhaust, new rims/tyres, electrical issues and interior parts that are broken or don’t work, cost of labour for any work on top of what you already know about the body/rust and paint cost.

My suggestion is work out all the stuff and labour amount you need to finish and have a final figure $budget, then decide if you can afford it or if the car is worthwhile to do. Don't start anything until you make up your mind about the $ budget needed.

The spiraling cost comes when people do more than the basic and want better expensive after market ebay stuff and never stop spending and want more power and get auto workshops shops to do all the work.

As an example ... My mate had just a stock standard 304 efi conversion done to his stock plain sleeper vl executive at a good reputable workshop, he supplied the 2nd hand VT 304 efi motor/auto and it cost him a further $10k just for the conversion, most of the charge was for the approx hrs labour with a few lil items supplied, plus tailshaft, mountings alteration, so LABOUR IS THE KILLA on older cars.

 

[keith reed]

I don't know if they are legal or available in NZ but had you considered fibreglass doors? There is or was a place in Hamilton that makes them. In Australia the doors for a vb are $490 each.

 

[NZR8]

I’ve already picked up a clean rust free door for $100 and I have seen a few others for sale for similar money but to be honest I think I’m just gonna pull the pin on it, it would be my dream to restore it but in reality I think I will end up too far into it and never get it done and I don’t wanna wait 10 years to drive it, I’m confident I will make my money back easily even if I have to part it out as all interior etc is immaculate.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[keith reed]

It's not advice that I have necessarily followed myself but if you can do a little bit each day it will help you retain an interest.
What ever you do don't keep a count of what you spend. Especially if you have a wife who is not a car restorer type person.

 

[Calaber]

Between 1987 and 1990, I restored an HT GTS, fitting a 350 with Turbo 350 trans. Four years, doing what I could, as I could afford it. The desire to see the job through never left me, but there were times (months) when nothing happened. It's an extremely rewarding achievement to start with a bare rusty shell, one front guard, both doors and bootlid, but no interior, motot, trans diff or suspension. Scrounging parts from the local tip, bush tracks and wreckers. Beating out dents cutting out rust, replacing a huge section of transmission hump which had been hacked out by a previous owner. Doing everything myself except for upholstery and engine machining. I can post pics for those interested. It. Might give the OP the impetus to see the job through.

 

[vc commodore]

With you being a stainless welder and fabricator by trade, it shouldn't be too hard for you to learn how to cut and replace body panels yourself....Just use the rusty old doors as practice.

Yes suspension parts, running gear and brakes can get expensive to replace, but what parts do actually need replacing? Honestly before making a decision, decide how far you want to go and price up the components that you want to replace and make a decision based on that.....

I did a rebuild on my VC.....Got it with no running gear and cruddy interior......Admittably, I already had the running gear, so that reduced the cost.....I had the rack recoed ($395), fitted VT front brakes (about $600 or so)....rust in the rear quarter and 1 door...About 4" square in the rear quarters and the size of a 50c piece in the door.....Painted it myself with help from mates....Cost $400 or $500 due to me buying mismatch paint ($90 for 4 litres of Britticania blue)...Paid $50 for VS front seats.....Paid $90 or so for SLE door trims and another $50 for SLE front arm rests.....Already had a SLE rear seat, but no headrests....

Currently I've got another 6 cyl blue motor nearly ready to go in...Paid $300 for it....Just had to put new bearings in it and just paid $600 for another head for it....Largest valves that can go in, yella terra roller rockers, push rod guide plates and hardened pushrods....So all up, the motor owes me about $1,000.....

So help that helps you with costing

 

[VS 5.0]

I can post pics for those interested.

Yes please.

 

[NZR8]

No issues with the wife Keith Reed she’s more then happy to pay someone to do it if it’s what I want even if it’s mega dollars but I’m the one who is hesitant on that part mainly because it would take forever to save that kind of money.

I have a very good friend who owns a mechanical garage who is more then happy to point me in the right direction with anything I struggle
With mechanically and also has offered to have a good look over it on hoist etc to see what it would need to be roadworthy so that could be worth a look.

the red original 202 and 4 speed in it seem to be running well, the interior is absolutely like new it has 160000 on the clock, it has a few small issues like bonnet release cable seems quite seized and dash lights not working but nothing major. It will need brake work though as they have definitely seen better days.

 

[Calaber]

Yes please.

OK. Have to digitise a few first. They all date from pre-digital era.