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VB-Vh SL\E Dash Instrument Cluster Conversion

Pub247

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Ok guys this is my SL\E Cluster conversion I have left out the Fuel flow light and How to get the oil pressure working though i did give you help in doing it. I didn't do these as i don't have the sensors but when i get them i will add it to the guide. I tried to keep it simple and have plenty of pictures to help, used with some common sense it a pretty simple conversion. Remember this is a guide and i accept no responsablilty if anything goes wrong. If you have any constructive criticism or comments feel free to post. Also it took me about 3-4 hours to do. Note it might better to download than veiw though it's half a meg i think.
 

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yobbo88

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easier way to get to the wires behind the dash before you can move it is from below. remove kick panel and pull out heater hose and you have a clear reach to all connections behind it... i got them all off without moving the cluster... i tried reaching down the speaker hole as pub suggested but ended up with a bunch of cuts on my wrist... maybe im retarded though.... thats the only thing id change the rest is exactly the way i did it. except im a lazy bum and didnt put a how to together... good work bud
 

Pub247

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TThanks yobbo you could do that the only one i unplugged is the speedo through the vent the rest i unplugged when the dash was out. But helpful never the less
 

johnmic

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gday there, many thanks for all the pics on how to, but how do I get the fuel low light to work.
Cheers
JOhn
 

Pub247

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UPDATE:
The oil sender unit i had to run a wire straight from the sender unit to the plug at the rear of the cluster. Just as at the time i didnt have the sender unit.
As for the fuel flow light there's is a lot more involved and requires the trip computers and all not exactly one i'd like to tackle the fuel gauge is good enough for me
 

gm1961

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SLE dash

Hi all

I done this about 5 years ago, then had to rip it all out as the speedo had the bounce, got a swap and the swap had a bouce, went back and got a refund.

I went elsewhere and got a dash, also i was given a small 2 wire harness that is suposed to make the taco and oil pressure work.

The oil went straight to full untill i got the correct variable one ( buy it new i tried 2 used ones and they both leaked - they seem to be ok untill disturbed )

I was never able to get the tacho work and did not feel like taking the dash out a 3rd time - but it took about 40 mins the last time - i think i had to take a vent out to make easier to juggle / sqeeze the dash past the crash padding , also i removed the lower dash cover to undo the speedo as i have large hands

regards
george
 

bluevh

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I have changed many things in my car over the years. Firstly i had a vn auto connected to the sle dash running through a transducer out of a calais. The speedo was a little bouncy back then. since, i have been through 2 transducers as they always break. Now i have converted mine to manual and am running a cable direct from the box into the dash. First try the speedo was very bouncy 20km-60km but smooths out after 65km. I was not happy with this so i tried a spare speedo.. same problem. ran some tests with spare cable, drill, speedo away from car and found that the speedo will act differently depending on the angle of force of the cable going into the speedo, holding my drill on speed 1 it holds on 40km, if i bend the cable slightly it shows 60km and if i bend it further it gets up to 80km. So taking that into account, i tried to get my cable to stay as straight as possible going into the speedo. My speedo straightens out at 40km/h which is good. only bad thing is, comparing speedo to gps data, .....40km = 55km.... 80km = 80km.... GPS is very accurate, dont believe people who tell you otherwise. everytime i get done speeding i look at my gps and it is always the same speed the police say i was doing. I use a tom tom.


I am interested in finding out how to get the tachometer to work on the vr v6 engine.. there are a few more coils
 
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