VC - 253 please help

[T-Bone75]

Firstly, sorry for the long post.

I am after some help please with my freshly rebuilt 253 (in a VC).
I've done all the work myself, I am not a mechanic and have been learning as I go. Father-son bonding with my 9y/o boy (the car will be his eventually).

No doubt I could have done things better, I admit this - so please be gentle.

Bought the car unregistered 6 months ago, did not know the history of the engine other than it had sat virtually unused for a long time. Externally it was rough as but it did however start and run.

Over the past 5 months I have stripped the engine down and rebuilt. In retrospect I probably didn't need to go as far as I did, but as I said, I didn't know the history and couldn't see the state of it until I stripped it down.

The engine had been rebuilt previously and I don't think it'd done many km since, judging by the internals (not that I am an expert) - but there was still hone marks evident in the cylinders and the piston faces had very little residue. I cleaned everything up meticulously.

It was .060 overbore and I replaced the existing rings (with cast rings), the conrod and main bearings were .010 and I replaced with the same.
I put new Crane lifters in and a new mild cam. Cam instructions said to set up timing as per stock cam. I put Moroso Moly assembly paste on all bearings and the cam lobes, and engine oil over the piston rings, lifters, rods etc.
(I had lapped the valves, and tested all pushrods for straightness.)
All bolts were torqued to workshop manual spec.

I did feel like the engine was tight (how tight is too tight?) but obviously I could turn it over ok on the stand with a socket on the crank bolt while I was installing the pistons/conrods. The engine got progressively tighter as I did each one but none were obviously fouling. I read that 'some' tightness is to be expected with new bearings and rings.
Also I reckon the Moroso Moly paste contributed a bit as it seems very thick(?)

I believe I have the pistons in the correct cylinder, the conrods and caps (which were numbered with a punch) oriented correctly (chamfered edge out towards crank webs) and the main caps in the right position and oriented correctly (these are marked conveniently). Bear in mind when I was finished and everything was torqued up I could still turn the engine over by hand with a standard socket arm (even after I put the heads on and torqued up the rockers - although it was tighter after that).

I installed the timing chain as per pics in the manual, #1 at TDC and 7 links between the markings on the RHS. When I put the balancer back on I found that the marking lined up nicely in this position too. I packed the (new) oil pump with petroleum jelly, have primed the (manual) fuel pump by sucking up fuel to the carby.

So on the weekend I had everything set to go, the distributor lined up etc and everything connected. I had installed a new high-torque starter motor and the battery was good and fully charged. I went to start and get a couple of 'rr-rrr'.. Could only do a partial revolution each go.
Seems like engine is too tight for the starter to spin. Got underneath and put a socket on the crank pulley and I can turn the engine (but it takes quite a bit of effort). I removed spark plugs, disconnected fuel, and now I can get her spinning over with no compression - but at about half the speed you'd expect. I let it run for as long as I dared (20-30 sec) to see if it loosened up and began spinning more freely but it doesn't.

I'm utterly despairing at the thought of having to pull the engine out again and tear it down as it would mean literally months of work down the drain. I've been working with limited space, limited tools and a bad back (I had to drop the engine in myself which was.. a challenge).

I know I'm clutching at straws somewhat but if anyone has any ideas/ suggestions, I'd be very grateful..

 

[Smitty]

.. did you check the clearance on the rear main bearing thrust face?
too small or no clearance means she won't turn over easily

and do all the pistons face the front of the engine?

 

[T-Bone75]

Thanks for replying mate.

No I didn't check that clearance. Just placed the crankshaft back in as it had come out. I don't think the thrust is adjustable is it? (Pardon my stupidity).

Yes, markings on piston faces are all towards front of engine.

But I just realised that I have left off the block earth! Wonder whether that would slow down the starter (relying on the chassis earth)? Going to try earthing the starter directly as soon as I get home.
Christ I hope that's it.

 

[EYY]

What brand rear main seal did you use? What procedure did you follow to fit it?

Don't try and start it any more or you'll do serious damage. Pull the sump off and loosen the rear main cap and see if it turns over more easily by hand.

Pulling it out now could save you thousands of dollars and many hours work down the track. It's worth getting it right. Only takes a couple of hours to have the engine out and on a stand anyway, so it's no big deal.

 

[T-Bone75]

Hi EYY thanks for the response.
I think it was a FelPro rope seal? Worked it into the groove with a hammer handle?
I don't remember the crank being significantly more difficult to turn after that end cap was tightened, so I doubt taking that off will solve the mystery (might give it a try though).
Totally get your point about not continuing blindly and doing damage. I'm resigned to the fact that the engine has to come back out but sadly it's gonna take me a heck of a lot more than 'a couple of hours' to have the engine back out on the stand - I'm obviously a lot less experienced than you and don't have a proper workshop. Thanks though.

 

[SL/ENUT]

But I just realised that I have left off the block earth! Wonder whether that would slow down the starter (relying on the chassis earth)? Going to try earthing the starter directly as soon as I get home.
Christ I hope that's it.

This here would be why its spinning slowly.

 

[vc commodore]

This here would be why its spinning slowly.

+1 for the solution.

 

[T-Bone75]

And boom! Ran a jumper lead from negative to starter body and she spins round twice as fast! Put plugs in and she still turns over no problem!
I'm freakin' overjoyed! Thanks everyone for input. Will post up a pic at some stage soon.

 

[c2105026]

Ah now does it actually run?

 

[T-Bone75]

Will post back when I can. Got a few things I have to do before I can attempt that again. But it allays my fears as to the engine being too tight to start (and this indicating a serious issue). So relieved.