VE 2012 Series II Fuel Tank Removal & Pump, Fuel Control Unit & Reversing Sensor Control Unit

[Lex]

11/1/2019
Dear Members, I said how I was looking for Fuel Control Module, and found it, as above,
However, the problem with the car cranking and not starting was causing error P023F,
Well after reading a few posts, and seeing where the fuel pump is located, I come to the assumption that the fuel pump was faulty, after a few attempts to get it going, what I did, was remove the back seat and hit the floor pan in the vicinity of the fuel pump
[like you had to do on the VN's in the early V series commodores],
and tried to start it, and it fired up ok.
So I ordered a new Fuel Pump, and decided to replace it myself,
What a job !, as they say, Don't try this at Home
[As I did on the floor of the garage, don't get me wrong, I have all the tools to do it, but not a hoist]
FIRST THING TO DO, IS DICONNECT THE BATTERY.
It was unable to siphon the fuel out, and is has 2 parts of the tank, part of it is on the drivers side and passengers side
as the tail shaft through the centre of it.
But I did work out the cables that supplied the Fuel pump, and made a LONG lead up with a inline switch, connected a hose to the Fuel Supply line, that went back to a jerry can, and that was the only way I was able to remove the fuel,
however, it only removed the fuel on the drivers side of the tank, so the passengers still had fuel in it. But wasn't that heavy
It started out Removing the -
Rear mufflers
Plastic under body protectors,

Exhaust [from cats back to the mufflers]
Heat shield [first one]
Tail shaft
Heat shield [second one on the tank]
Disconnect the hand brake cables [fold them back onto the K frame out of the way]
Support the K frame with a trolley jack, then Loosen the rear K frame bolts [about half way as they have very long bolts],
Remove the front K frame bolts and let the K frame hang
Disconnect the fuel supply to the engine
Undo the Tank straps and let it hang
Disconnect the filler pipe
Disconnect the filler pipe breather
Disconnect the charcoal canister breather [this one is right on top of the tank at the back], very hard to see, "but a must do"
Then finally removed the tank
Disconnected the fuel tank loom
I blew the dust off it around the fuel pump,
Washed the tank down with a Karcher [made sure I didn't get any water in the inlet/outlets] blew the water off around the top of it where the fuel pump unit goes.
Then replaced the fuel pump unit. Part# Fuelmiser FPE-703
I then washed down the every other item that was removed, so it wont be such a dirty job putting all back together.

But before I refitted the loom plug, I checked for any foreign objects,
and found that PIN 2 was burnt [as per image], Fuel Tank [loom] Part 92250930 [it has 5 plugs on it]
I rang around a couple of wreckers I deal with, and when I asked the first one if he had a fuel tank loom for a VE,
He then asked without hesitation, "has the plug melted", then told me that its a common problem.
We both agreed, its a bit of a time bomb, "Melting Pins on the plug next to the volatile Fuel"
Because of the work involved to drop the tank and replace the loom, I bet there wasn't a recall.
However, very dangerous.
I did read that the Fuel Pump can draw up to 10 amps,
where GM have compensated for that, by using a larger conductor [cables] Grey + [positive] and Pink - [Negative]
I am not going to get into the exact depths of how to drop the tank, there is a Youtube clip about it, [link below]

12/1/2019
I have rung around a couple of Dealers and the part has to be ordered,
where the First Dealer said a couple of days,
I said to him that the plug had melted, He said that its pretty common fault.
So Holden is aware of this also, and do nothing about it.
I bet Holdens are not the only vehicles with a deadly faults like this.
Know wonder cars catch on fire.

When l saw you were going to change pump, l wondered about the pump loom. Further reading & realised you were aware of it.
And yes it did need changing.

 

[krusing]

12/1/2019
Dear Members,
All Done and Running Perfectly
Mind you, it only took 5 hours to put it all back together by myself, and road test it.
In light of being the weekend, and I wasn't able to get a replacement loom till Tuesday through a Holden Dealer,
However, I rang around a few wreckers and they didn't even have one either, they did have other looms.

Me being a Sparky, I had a bright idea [No Pun intended]
So one of the Wreckers I rang said they didn't have the one I required, but they do have other looms on the shelf for VE's,
I headed over to one of the wreckers with my existing loom, and purchased a loom for LS1,
which had the exact same Fuel Pump Plug. [for $45]
My bright idea was cut the burnt plug off my existing loom,
Then Cut the Fuel Pump Plug off further down the LS1 loom,
as it would be a bit longer, about 80 - 100mm, that was ok, [so I will have plenty to play with]
I then spliced the replacement plug onto the original loom,
Slid 2 lots of shrink sleaving on each of the wires [being 4 wires]
Soldered all them by doing a staggered join, and heat shrank them, then shrank the second lot of heat shrink over each join of each wire.
Them taped them up exactly like the OEM does, and installed a small piece of the flexy conduit. [being it was a bit longer]
And then re-fitted the loom back on the tank ready to re-installed [as per image]
With the extra length, I just wire tied it back on to the Fuel Pump locking ring, so it didn't rattle/vibrate on the top of the tank.
[wire tie not shown in the image]
Then progressively re-fitting everything back together,
Very happy with the result.

I took it on as a challenge, and the mission has been completed
I also took the advantage of re-charging the battery while it was disconnected, with a trickle charger for the last 1.5 days,
came back up to a strong 12.3 volts.

Hope this helps other members, remember, nothing is impossible, its just a challenge, if there is a will, there is a way.
PS: If you need a Fuel Pump replaced, don't call me, I will call you, only kidding

 

[krusing]

Gawd,major drama there,i hadn't heard about the plug burning out.
When you took the back seat out there obviously wasn't a cut out in the floor plan above the fuel pump..?

No there wasn't,
but figured, do it once, do it properly,
I have added a bit more to this thread of how I got around from getting a replacement loom.

 

[krusing]

When l saw you were going to change pump, l wondered about the pump loom. Further reading & realised you were aware of it.
And yes it did need changing.

I have added a bit more to this thread of how I got around from getting a replacement loom.

 

[krusing]

Great write up , good advice about wiring loom

I have added a bit more to this thread of how I got around from getting a replacement loom.

 

[krusing]

That's interesting,we had the battery holder out of my Neighbours VE Wagon to refit the breather i didn't notice it.Pics. will be handy when you get the time.TIA

Images added

 

[bdedene]

11/1/2019
Dear Members, I said how I was looking for Fuel Control Module, and found it, as above,
However, the problem with the car cranking and not starting was causing error P023F,
Well after reading a few posts, and seeing where the fuel pump is located, I come to the assumption that the fuel pump was faulty, after a few attempts to get it going, what I did, was remove the back seat and hit the floor pan in the vicinity of the fuel pump
[like you had to do on the VN's in the early V series commodores],
and tried to start it, and it fired up ok.
So I ordered a new Fuel Pump, and decided to replace it myself,
What a job !, as they say, Don't try this at Home
[As I did on the floor of the garage, don't get me wrong, I have all the tools to do it, but not a hoist]
FIRST THING TO DO, IS DICONNECT THE BATTERY.
I was unable to siphon the fuel out, and it has 2 parts of the tank, part of it is on the drivers side and passengers side
as the tail shaft through the under side of the centre of it.
But I did work out the cables that supplied the Fuel pump, and made a LONG lead up with a inline switch, connected a hose to the Fuel Supply line, that went back to a jerry can, and that was the only way I was able to remove the fuel,
however, it only removed the fuel on the drivers side of the tank, so the passengers still had fuel in it. But wasn't that heavy
It started out Removing the -
Rear mufflers
Plastic under body protectors,
Exhaust [from cats back to the mufflers]
Heat shield [first one]
Tail shaft
Heat shield [second one on the tank]
Disconnect the hand brake cables [fold them back onto the K frame out of the way]
Support the K frame with a trolley jack, then Loosen the rear K frame bolts [about half way as they have very long bolts - DO NOT REMOVE THEM],
Remove the front K frame bolts and let the K frame hang
Disconnect the fuel supply to the engine
Disconnect the breather pipe.
Disconnect the charcoal canister breather [this one is right on top of the tank at the back], very hard to see, "but a must do"
Undo the Tank straps and let it hang
Disconnect the filler pipe
Disconnect the filler pipe breather
Lower the Jack
Then finally removed the tank.

Removed the fuel tank loom
I blew the dust off it around the fuel pump,
Washed the tank down with a Karcher [made sure I didn't get any water in the inlet/outlets] blew the water off around the top of it where the fuel pump unit goes.
Then replaced the fuel pump unit.
I then washed down the every other item that was removed, so it wont be such a dirty job putting all back together.

But before I refitted the loom plug, I checked for any foreign objects,
and found that PIN 2 was burnt [as per image], Fuel Tank [loom] Part 92250930 [it has 5 plugs on it]
I rang around a couple of wreckers I deal with, and when I asked the first one if he had a fuel tank loom for a VE,
He then asked without hesitation, "has the plug melted", then told me that its a common problem.
We both agreed, its a bit of a time bomb, "Melting Pins on the plug next to the volatile Fuel"
Because of the work involved to drop the tank and replace the loom, I bet there wasn't a recall.
However, very dangerous.
I did read that the Fuel Pump can draw up to 10 amps,
where GM have compensated for that, by using a larger conductor [cables] Grey + [positive] and Pink - [Negative]
I am not going to get into the exact depths of how to drop the tank, there is a Youtube clip about it, [link below]

12/1/2019
I have rung around a couple of Dealers and the part has to be ordered,
where the First Dealer said a couple of days,
I said to him that the plug had melted, He said that its pretty common fault.
So Holden is aware of this also, and do nothing about it.
I bet Holdens are not the only vehicles with a deadly faults like this.
Know wonder cars catch on fire.

Very interesting . Your article is quite comprohensive . Especial the burnt out plug . Would this have been a problem for VE 2012 or the whole of the VE series . My car is 2006 . I wonder if replacing the whole plug with a heavier rated four pin plug has any merite . Thank for the lead to this article Bdedene

 

[VS_Pete]

You may have that entrance under the back seat.

 

[krusing]

As VS_Pete mentioned, above ^
Where some of the early VE's had an inspection plate under the backseat,
So you could be in luck.

If I had of had the inspection plate,
It would of been a bit difficult to splice the plug on to the loom.

 

[bazz61]

thanx for the post , a lot of work to replace a fuel pump , do you think it would be feasible to (carefully) cut your own inspection plate given that earlier VE s had them ..?
The burnt plug is a bit of a worry ...how can GM get away with that ...?