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VE Battery Issue

eetmesoon

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Looking for some advice...out of the blue, went to start car yesterday...remote wouldn't unlock car...after some mucking around...went and got my spare key.,...same problem.

Sounded like relays responded to remote button push...nothing else.

Unlocked driver door with key...no lights...zippo.

Went and got a multimeter...not thinking pushed the remote's boot release...it unlocked! That threw me at first...why doors not open? Found battery voltage at 5.4v...that would be why the doors not unlock

Why battery flat? Last drove it Saturday. Relatively new [12 months 2 weeks old; 3 year warranty] no history of problems...here's where it gets finicky...Monday new remote Fob arrived [eBay cheapo] fitted guts of existing remote as instructions showed...out to car...NO WORKIE!

Back inside, opened up the fob, checked whatever I could think to check...reassembled back out to car...still nothing. Then I opened it up again...took battery and PCB out of fob...out to car and holding them together...remote worked! Hmmm...opened and checked closely the replacement fob parts...could see no problem...carefully reassembled...back out to car...nothing yet again! More rechecking after opening it again...in desperation really, I figured it was worth a "minor manipulation" of the 2 tiny tabs that provide earth return for the 3032 coin battery negative...I'm talking "minor" I reckon I bent them less than 1mm back towards where the coin cell was supposed to sit...VERY CAREFUL REASSEMBLY...back out side....it worked ! IT'S ALIVE!!

So thinking issue fixed at last...went out as couple more times last night...checked all buttons still open and close as they are supposed to...then went to go out Wednesday arvo and...DEAD BATTERY! I phoned supplier..he said not likely to be a battery issue [reason? If it were it'd have 1 dead or dropped cell...to get to 5.4v. he said I must've had something on - didn't realise that - so battery drained. Seemed plausible then I mentioned all the hassles I had changing the fob...he said issue was 1 of 2 things...either boot light was on as boot unlocked when I was testing remote on Monday night...or Alternator had packed it in recently and car simply ran out of battery power over the time since it was last used. He also mentioned may be a problem with computer thinking "OK, I'm unlocked now...waiting to start" which would cure itself once car was started.

Advice? Get it tested at Auto-Electrician's for dropped cell or Alternator problem [have moved from Bathurst to Central Coast [about 360 kms] and that's why not going back to him...raced out bought a charger [older used Arlec type; just because I already have 3 chargers, but they're in a Storage Unit that is not nearby] and just connected it to battery in boot, then turned charger "on" soon as I did that...low pulse beep from horn and hazards [well; not sure if actually the Hazard lights flashing or just the Indicator Lights; nor if it was caused by some type of O.E.M. Alarm??] then tried clicking remote buttons, still happening...sat in seat and switched Hazard Light switch off...lights still flashing. Got out, shut door...locked with key then tried to used remote to "Lock" card again...but blinkers and horn still pulsing...

Not wanting to upset neighbours so will follow up in morning...but advice I'm seeking...does charger get connected to battery terminals in the boot...or in engine bay? Do I need to disconnect leads from battery so I can get some charge into it?

What happens with internal electrical connections/memory settings if cables are disconnected? I did read here on Forums a comment about "if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge" can this be confirmed?

Was going to disconnected cables from battery and charge it up...but not wanting to do that if it's going to cause issues with Security Codes or Radio Codes etc

Hope for a fix so I can get it done overnight...guess I could disconnect; put charger on for say 7 hours and set an alarm for myself to get up and reconnect cables before 8 hour threshold is reached???

Here am I...awaiting knowledgeable guidance!


====================
Following is a quote from Member 'Lout' who was replying to another Member's Thread relating to power issues [https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/battery-light-with-alternator-light-on-ve-2018-ute.29451]

i assume you mean 2008 ve

from holden training module
charge mode 13.9 - 15.5
fuel economy mode 12.5 - 13.1
sulphation mode 13.9 - 15.5 for 2-3 minutes
headlamp mode 13.9 - 14.5
startup mode 14.5 for 30 seconds
if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge
after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge
 

lmoengnr

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Looking for some advice...out of the blue, went to start car yesterday...remote wouldn't unlock car...after some mucking around...went and got my spare key.,...same problem.

Sounded like relays responded to remote button push...nothing else.

Unlocked driver door with key...no lights...zippo.

Went and got a multimeter...not thinking pushed the remote's boot release...it unlocked! That threw me at first...why doors not open? Found battery voltage at 5.4v...that would be why the doors not unlock

Why battery flat? Last drove it Saturday. Relatively new [12 months 2 weeks old; 3 year warranty] no history of problems...here's where it gets finicky...Monday new remote Fob arrived [eBay cheapo] fitted guts of existing remote as instructions showed...out to car...NO WORKIE!

Back inside, opened up the fob, checked whatever I could think to check...reassembled back out to car...still nothing. Then I opened it up again...took battery and PCB out of fob...out to car and holding them together...remote worked! Hmmm...opened and checked closely the replacement fob parts...could see no problem...carefully reassembled...back out to car...nothing yet again! More rechecking after opening it again...in desperation really, I figured it was worth a "minor manipulation" of the 2 tiny tabs that provide earth return for the 3032 coin battery negative...I'm talking "minor" I reckon I bent them less than 1mm back towards where the coin cell was supposed to sit...VERY CAREFUL REASSEMBLY...back out side....it worked ! IT'S ALIVE!!

So thinking issue fixed at last...went out as couple more times last night...checked all buttons still open and close as they are supposed to...then went to go out Wednesday arvo and...DEAD BATTERY! I phoned supplier..he said not likely to be a battery issue [reason? If it were it'd have 1 dead or dropped cell...to get to 5.4v. he said I must've had something on - didn't realise that - so battery drained. Seemed plausible then I mentioned all the hassles I had changing the fob...he said issue was 1 of 2 things...either boot light was on as boot unlocked when I was testing remote on Monday night...or Alternator had packed it in recently and car simply ran out of battery power over the time since it was last used. He also mentioned may be a problem with computer thinking "OK, I'm unlocked now...waiting to start" which would cure itself once car was started.

Advice? Get it tested at Auto-Electrician's for dropped cell or Alternator problem [have moved from Bathurst to Central Coast [about 360 kms] and that's why not going back to him...raced out bought a charger [older used Arlec type; just because I already have 3 chargers, but they're in a Storage Unit that is not nearby] and just connected it to battery in boot, then turned charger "on" soon as I did that...low pulse beep from horn and hazards [well; not sure if actually the Hazard lights flashing or just the Indicator Lights; nor if it was caused by some type of O.E.M. Alarm??] then tried clicking remote buttons, still happening...sat in seat and switched Hazard Light switch off...lights still flashing. Got out, shut door...locked with key then tried to used remote to "Lock" card again...but blinkers and horn still pulsing...

Not wanting to upset neighbours so will follow up in morning...but advice I'm seeking...does charger get connected to battery terminals in the boot...or in engine bay? Do I need to disconnect leads from battery so I can get some charge into it?

What happens with internal electrical connections/memory settings if cables are disconnected? I did read here on Forums a comment about "if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge" can this be confirmed?

Was going to disconnected cables from battery and charge it up...but not wanting to do that if it's going to cause issues with Security Codes or Radio Codes etc

Hope for a fix so I can get it done overnight...guess I could disconnect; put charger on for say 7 hours and set an alarm for myself to get up and reconnect cables before 8 hour threshold is reached???

Here am I...awaiting knowledgeable guidance!


====================
Following is a quote from Member 'Lout' who was replying to another Member's Thread relating to power issues [https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/battery-light-with-alternator-light-on-ve-2018-ute.29451]

i assume you mean 2008 ve

from holden training module
charge mode 13.9 - 15.5
fuel economy mode 12.5 - 13.1
sulphation mode 13.9 - 15.5 for 2-3 minutes
headlamp mode 13.9 - 14.5
startup mode 14.5 for 30 seconds
if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge
after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge
When the horn was blaring, and hazards flashing, should have put the key in the ignition and turned it to 'on'.
Try charging it again, use the terminals in the engine bay, just remember to key the ignition.
It mighty be a dud battery(warranty applies), could be parasitic drain somehow, or even a dodgy drivers door lock actuator.
What year is the VE?
 

eetmesoon

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horn was never blaring...it was a really muted...pulsing kind of sound...lights were not fully bright...2008 Omega.

By "key the ignition" do you mean have the key in the ignition barrel? Turned on, or accessories or just inserted? Also...."dodgy drivers door lock actuator" not likely as previously disabled 2 stage door unlock...so 1 push, all doors unlock.
 

lmoengnr

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horn was never blaring...it was a really muted...pulsing kind of sound...lights were not fully bright...2008 Omega.

By "key the ignition" do you mean have the key in the ignition barrel? Turned on, or accessories or just inserted? Also...."dodgy drivers door lock actuator" not likely as previously disabled 2 stage door unlock...so 1 push, all doors unlock.
'Muted' due to level of charge in the battery, it was the alarm going off, hazards and horn. Stop it by key in ignition and turn to on.
Door actuator sends a message to the BCM that the car is 'ready to sleep', no message to BCM and the car never really shuts down.
Drivers door lock actuators were problematic on VE's.
 

eetmesoon

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Thanks very much for detailed explanation...seems the likely scenario! Won't upset neighbours and try to fix now...will wait till morning...then open door using key...put key in ignition barrel, turn to on...and then I will connect the battery charger.

Had lots of Holdens in my life...along with others here and there...[LITERALLY; FJ [in 1968], EK Special [wish I kept it], HR Wagon [twin strommies +], HQ Belmont, HJ Kingswood [brand new $6600], HD Special [rebuilt with HP179], HT [put HD running gear + a 4 speed into this], HQ Premier V8 [in Orchid Pink!], VC S, VH SL, VC S, VC SLH Wagon [custom built 253 myself], HQ Ute [fully worked 308 4 speed which did outrun some Highway Patrol SS's back in the day] VC SLH Wagon [custom built 308 myself], VR Executive Wagon, VS Acclaim Wagon, VT Acclaim Wagon, VX Executive, and now the VE Omega]. none ever had a factory alarm! Hence...no idea of process...
 

Fu Manchu

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With the key, you did cut the transponder out didn’t you? The circuit board swap over easy. It’s the transponder that you need and that’s embedded in the plastic of the fob.
 

Fu Manchu

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Disconnect the battery to charge it. Negative first.
No this won’t cause issues with codes.

Get the voltage back and you have a starting point.

It takes a technician literally minutes to test the battery voltage, load test, see if it’s getting charge and if the alternator is working correctly. Minutes. It’s all done with the one tool. Well two, there’s the technician doing the job as well.

Get someone around to look at it. Pay for it. A battery mob will be able to do that.

There are a number of reasons voltage draw happens and that’s the next step.
 
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Martbar

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When the horn was blaring, and hazards flashing, should have put the key in the ignition and turned it to 'on'.
Try charging it again, use the terminals in the engine bay, just remember to key the ignition.
It mighty be a dud battery(warranty applies), could be parasitic drain somehow, or even a dodgy drivers door lock actuator.
What year is the VE?
Hey lmoengnr, just reread your post." Try charging it again, use the terminals in the engine bay, just remember to key the ignition.
So do you leave the key in the ignition, while charging? Cheers mate.
 
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Skylarking

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So do you leave the key in the ignition, while charging? Cheers mate.
No, the act of charging a battery is separate to any anti theft system a vehicle may have. You don’t need the key to charge the car but you do need the key to access the boot or the bonnet :p

I believe the idea of putting your key into the ignition and turning it to ACC position is to tell the anti theft system that the car isn’t in the process of being stolen… But I believe it still needs the key transponder which is in the key shell. So if you change key shells you need to carefully dig it out from the old shell and transfer it to your new key shell, else flashing lights and tooting horn may occur when you unlock or try to start the car…

If you do get flashing lights and tooting horn, inserting key and turning it to ACC will normally shut the car up :cool:

You can charge the battery either via the posts within the engine bay or directly via the battery posts. Since I’ve got a tow bar, I’ve wired the battery +ve to the electric brake pin on the tow bar connector tor and made an adapter for my ctek charger so I can simply plug my charger in without needing to unlock the car or open the boot… Such can be done on VE or VF…

 
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lmoengnr

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Hey lmoengnr, just reread your post." Try charging it again, use the terminals in the engine bay, just remember to key the ignition.
So do you leave the key in the ignition, while charging? Cheers mate.
Dont need the key whilst charging, only if you start charging and the alarm goes off.
Once you cancel the alarm you can remove the key.
 
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