eetmesoon
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
- Messages
- 57
- Reaction score
- 11
- Points
- 8
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Australia
- Members Ride
- VX SEDAN...AND A VE TOO!
Looking for some advice...out of the blue, went to start car yesterday...remote wouldn't unlock car...after some mucking around...went and got my spare key.,...same problem.
Sounded like relays responded to remote button push...nothing else.
Unlocked driver door with key...no lights...zippo.
Went and got a multimeter...not thinking pushed the remote's boot release...it unlocked! That threw me at first...why doors not open? Found battery voltage at 5.4v...that would be why the doors not unlock
Why battery flat? Last drove it Saturday. Relatively new [12 months 2 weeks old; 3 year warranty] no history of problems...here's where it gets finicky...Monday new remote Fob arrived [eBay cheapo] fitted guts of existing remote as instructions showed...out to car...NO WORKIE!
Back inside, opened up the fob, checked whatever I could think to check...reassembled back out to car...still nothing. Then I opened it up again...took battery and PCB out of fob...out to car and holding them together...remote worked! Hmmm...opened and checked closely the replacement fob parts...could see no problem...carefully reassembled...back out to car...nothing yet again! More rechecking after opening it again...in desperation really, I figured it was worth a "minor manipulation" of the 2 tiny tabs that provide earth return for the 3032 coin battery negative...I'm talking "minor" I reckon I bent them less than 1mm back towards where the coin cell was supposed to sit...VERY CAREFUL REASSEMBLY...back out side....it worked ! IT'S ALIVE!!
So thinking issue fixed at last...went out as couple more times last night...checked all buttons still open and close as they are supposed to...then went to go out Wednesday arvo and...DEAD BATTERY! I phoned supplier..he said not likely to be a battery issue [reason? If it were it'd have 1 dead or dropped cell...to get to 5.4v. he said I must've had something on - didn't realise that - so battery drained. Seemed plausible then I mentioned all the hassles I had changing the fob...he said issue was 1 of 2 things...either boot light was on as boot unlocked when I was testing remote on Monday night...or Alternator had packed it in recently and car simply ran out of battery power over the time since it was last used. He also mentioned may be a problem with computer thinking "OK, I'm unlocked now...waiting to start" which would cure itself once car was started.
Advice? Get it tested at Auto-Electrician's for dropped cell or Alternator problem [have moved from Bathurst to Central Coast [about 360 kms] and that's why not going back to him...raced out bought a charger [older used Arlec type; just because I already have 3 chargers, but they're in a Storage Unit that is not nearby] and just connected it to battery in boot, then turned charger "on" soon as I did that...low pulse beep from horn and hazards [well; not sure if actually the Hazard lights flashing or just the Indicator Lights; nor if it was caused by some type of O.E.M. Alarm??] then tried clicking remote buttons, still happening...sat in seat and switched Hazard Light switch off...lights still flashing. Got out, shut door...locked with key then tried to used remote to "Lock" card again...but blinkers and horn still pulsing...
Not wanting to upset neighbours so will follow up in morning...but advice I'm seeking...does charger get connected to battery terminals in the boot...or in engine bay? Do I need to disconnect leads from battery so I can get some charge into it?
What happens with internal electrical connections/memory settings if cables are disconnected? I did read here on Forums a comment about "if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge" can this be confirmed?
Was going to disconnected cables from battery and charge it up...but not wanting to do that if it's going to cause issues with Security Codes or Radio Codes etc
Hope for a fix so I can get it done overnight...guess I could disconnect; put charger on for say 7 hours and set an alarm for myself to get up and reconnect cables before 8 hour threshold is reached???
Here am I...awaiting knowledgeable guidance!
====================
Following is a quote from Member 'Lout' who was replying to another Member's Thread relating to power issues [https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/battery-light-with-alternator-light-on-ve-2018-ute.29451]
i assume you mean 2008 ve
from holden training module
charge mode 13.9 - 15.5
fuel economy mode 12.5 - 13.1
sulphation mode 13.9 - 15.5 for 2-3 minutes
headlamp mode 13.9 - 14.5
startup mode 14.5 for 30 seconds
if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge
after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge
Sounded like relays responded to remote button push...nothing else.
Unlocked driver door with key...no lights...zippo.
Went and got a multimeter...not thinking pushed the remote's boot release...it unlocked! That threw me at first...why doors not open? Found battery voltage at 5.4v...that would be why the doors not unlock
Why battery flat? Last drove it Saturday. Relatively new [12 months 2 weeks old; 3 year warranty] no history of problems...here's where it gets finicky...Monday new remote Fob arrived [eBay cheapo] fitted guts of existing remote as instructions showed...out to car...NO WORKIE!
Back inside, opened up the fob, checked whatever I could think to check...reassembled back out to car...still nothing. Then I opened it up again...took battery and PCB out of fob...out to car and holding them together...remote worked! Hmmm...opened and checked closely the replacement fob parts...could see no problem...carefully reassembled...back out to car...nothing yet again! More rechecking after opening it again...in desperation really, I figured it was worth a "minor manipulation" of the 2 tiny tabs that provide earth return for the 3032 coin battery negative...I'm talking "minor" I reckon I bent them less than 1mm back towards where the coin cell was supposed to sit...VERY CAREFUL REASSEMBLY...back out side....it worked ! IT'S ALIVE!!
So thinking issue fixed at last...went out as couple more times last night...checked all buttons still open and close as they are supposed to...then went to go out Wednesday arvo and...DEAD BATTERY! I phoned supplier..he said not likely to be a battery issue [reason? If it were it'd have 1 dead or dropped cell...to get to 5.4v. he said I must've had something on - didn't realise that - so battery drained. Seemed plausible then I mentioned all the hassles I had changing the fob...he said issue was 1 of 2 things...either boot light was on as boot unlocked when I was testing remote on Monday night...or Alternator had packed it in recently and car simply ran out of battery power over the time since it was last used. He also mentioned may be a problem with computer thinking "OK, I'm unlocked now...waiting to start" which would cure itself once car was started.
Advice? Get it tested at Auto-Electrician's for dropped cell or Alternator problem [have moved from Bathurst to Central Coast [about 360 kms] and that's why not going back to him...raced out bought a charger [older used Arlec type; just because I already have 3 chargers, but they're in a Storage Unit that is not nearby] and just connected it to battery in boot, then turned charger "on" soon as I did that...low pulse beep from horn and hazards [well; not sure if actually the Hazard lights flashing or just the Indicator Lights; nor if it was caused by some type of O.E.M. Alarm??] then tried clicking remote buttons, still happening...sat in seat and switched Hazard Light switch off...lights still flashing. Got out, shut door...locked with key then tried to used remote to "Lock" card again...but blinkers and horn still pulsing...
Not wanting to upset neighbours so will follow up in morning...but advice I'm seeking...does charger get connected to battery terminals in the boot...or in engine bay? Do I need to disconnect leads from battery so I can get some charge into it?
What happens with internal electrical connections/memory settings if cables are disconnected? I did read here on Forums a comment about "if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge" can this be confirmed?
Was going to disconnected cables from battery and charge it up...but not wanting to do that if it's going to cause issues with Security Codes or Radio Codes etc
Hope for a fix so I can get it done overnight...guess I could disconnect; put charger on for say 7 hours and set an alarm for myself to get up and reconnect cables before 8 hour threshold is reached???
Here am I...awaiting knowledgeable guidance!
====================
Following is a quote from Member 'Lout' who was replying to another Member's Thread relating to power issues [https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/battery-light-with-alternator-light-on-ve-2018-ute.29451]
i assume you mean 2008 ve
from holden training module
charge mode 13.9 - 15.5
fuel economy mode 12.5 - 13.1
sulphation mode 13.9 - 15.5 for 2-3 minutes
headlamp mode 13.9 - 14.5
startup mode 14.5 for 30 seconds
if you disconnect battery, the bcm assumes battery is at 20% charge
after 8 hours with key off bcm will learn actual state of charge