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VE clonk sound when pulling away?

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Pauldw500

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OK now wondering if I have a lemon, and the gearbox is stuffed?!. To explain more. When I select D From Park ivevnoticed it takes a good 2 seconds to go into gear, and that's with a bit of a clunk too. Nothing too bad but it's been noticed by the only 2 other people I've had in the car with me. Also I've noticed the 'clunk' is at the tail end of 'giving it a bit' too. So basically from standstill if I launch half quick I get the clunk, and then when I lef off the throttle it can clunk again (but not every time. So yeah if I pull away slowly like I do 99% of the time it's smooth as, but yeah just go a bit quick and 'clunk'. Oh and also when I got under the car earlier both me and a friend (who's commodore SV6 has a current worn centre bearing) both felt that after a prod poke and a pull, that there was very little, if any at all play in the drive shaft. Well, from where we could get to it, but yeah solid as, NO movement or play...

Hmmm, any thoughts guys? ....
 

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Subju

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Skydrol

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There's a rubber section around that bearing that starts to wear out as well as the bearing itself failing. If you you- tube carrier bearing removal on Pontiac G8 there's lots of videos on how to replace it.

+1

Mine felt like I had a can on the floor boards rolling around.

Mine did the same and the bearing Rubber was rotted out. To replace it, the heat shields need to come off along with a cross brace and the exhaust. While you are at it, replace the driveshaft rubber couplings, even if they looks good, is cheap insurance.

I say is a moderate dificulty and some special tools are need it (hydraulic press, sockets, retainer clip pliers, torque wrench).
 
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Pauldw500

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OK to update. Near side engine mount is rooted. Just had a roadworthy done on old car and the guy said to do a stall test on the car, and surely enough it clonks. Put into gear while holding brake and press throttle a bit.... Clonk!! Yeah can't see it being good to keep doing but can replicate it every time.

Now to see how hard it is to change it altho am guessing it'll be advised to do both ( or however many it has).

Any clues guys?

Oh and for the giggle, here's a bodge on a Ford Ranger engine mount that held 10 days till the part arrived...
 

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krusing

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OK to update. Near side engine mount is rooted. Just had a roadworthy done on old car and the guy said to do a stall test on the car, and surely enough it clonks. Put into gear while holding brake and press throttle a bit.... Clonk!! Yeah can't see it being good to keep doing but can replicate it every time.

Now to see how hard it is to change it altho am guessing it'll be advised to do both ( or however many it has).

Any clues guys?

Oh and for the giggle, here's a bodge on a Ford Ranger engine mount that held 10 days till the part arrived...

Yep, Do Both,
Looks hard, but It's really easy,

First you do is remove the Air intake from the Air Box to the Throttle body, or OTR intake [if fitted]
[because if you don't, it will be damaged when jacking the motor up]

optional: Remove the bottom radiator hose from the motor ONLY,
[Because you may stretch it, and/or snap the elbow fitting off the bottom of the radiator,]
[so you don't drop water everywhere, remove the radiator drain plug into a bucket so you can re-fill the radiator when finished]

If you going to replace them on ramps
Get your self a large block of wood, and a decent trolley jack.
Remove the engine mount nuts under the car,
Remove the engine mount nuts on top engine mounts
[this is a bit difficult do, with not too much room, especially on the drivers side is a PITA, where I purchased a 1/2 drive Kincrome Extendable Flexible Head Ratchet so It can reach the top nuts]
The top nuts were fairly tight, so with the extension handle, it made it much easier to get some leverage on them.
Then jack the motor up on the Sump with the piece of timber on top of the Jack to give yourself enough room to remove the old engine mounts, [not to high as you will probably lift the exhaust also.
Keeping in mind to keep an eye on other parts connected to motor not to damage them when jacking it up,
when you get the old ones out, you will see heat shields that face the CAT's,
When installing the new ones, remember to re-install them,
Lower the engine slowly so the bolts top and bottom line up correctly, also the heat shields are in the correct position
then tension them up.

Time approx 1.5 hours. [that being generous]
I think the Top and Bottom nuts are about 18mm [by memory].
Std Socket wont fit due to the engine mount bolt length, so a Deep socket required.
 
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P

Pauldw500

Guest
Yep, Do Both,
Looks hard, but It's really easy,

First this you do is remove the Air intake from the Air Box to the Throttle body, or OTR intake [if fitted]
[because if you don't, it will be damaged when jacking the motor up]

optional: Remove the bottom radiator hose from the motor ONLY,
[Because you may stretch it, and/or snap the elbow fitting off the bottom of the radiator,] [
so you don't drop water everywhere, remove the radiator drain plug into a bucket so you can re-fill the radiator when finished]

If you going to replace them on ramps
Get your self a large block of wood, and a decent trolley jack.
Remove the engine mount nuts under the car,
Remove the engine mount nuts on top engine mounts
[this is a bit difficult do, with not too much room, especially on the drivers side is a PITA, where I purchased a 1/2 drive Kincrome Extendable Flexible Head Ratchet so It can reach the top nuts]
The top nuts were fairly tight, so with the extension handle, it made it much easier to get some leverage on them.
Then jack the motor up to give yourself enough room to remove the old engine mounts, [not to high as you will probably lift the exhaust also.
Keeping in mind to keep an eye on other parts connected to motor not to damage them when jacking it up,
when you get the old ones out, you will see heat shields that face the CAT's,
When installing the new ones, remember to re-install them,
Lower the engine slowly so the bolts bolts top and bottom line up correctly, also the heat shields are in the correct
then tension them up.

Time approx 1.5 hours. [that being generous]
I think the Top and Bottom nuts are about 17mm [by memory].
Std Socket wont fit due to the engine mount bolt length, so a Deep socket required.
Wow, thank you VERY much for this, that's awesome... So is it 2 mounts only as I thought I read something about a 'rear' mount too...
 
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