Ve commodore clutch

Normally if you look on the floor it's the pedal on the left...

Seriously, I have an auto, but took a manual SIDI for a drive and found the clutch really good. Not too heavy, not too light, and after 3 or 4 changes I got used to the point it started gripping & was doing smooth changes after that

 

well weighted easy to operat smooth but needs more clamping force can slip if pushed and that a 6

 

Perfectly OK.

I have had four Commodores and three of another large Oz car, all manuals.

I am perfectly happy with the VE SV6 clutch. Have put 37K on the clock so far, with no complaints.

 

if your into any sort of performance the stock clutch will need to go, she slips easy, its good for what it is thou

 

driving my mates manual, I reckon its fine. It does slip if you give it too much, but that's just to protect the rest of the drivetrain better. For daily driving it's fine. For sports use, upgrade it (as already pointed out). But that's with most cars anyway. Most stock clutches are 'only as grippy as they need to be'.

 

thats the key the clutch will always be the weekest point in the drive train to prevent expensive failures

 

They're crap ... stick to the floor if you give them a hard time.

Bad design of the pedal and the slave cylinder is too small compared to VX.

Problem is compounded by the traction control with high output cars like mine.

There are lots of threads on the topic on other forums ... I have posted a fix in here that gives a step-by-step instruction to do a mod which removes the helper spring and adds a return spring to stop the pedal from sticking. see here: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/ve-holden-commodore-2006/118418-fix-sticking-ve-ss-clutch.html

Holden are apparently working on a "fix" but this has beein going on for years.

There was talk of replace the clutch with an LS7 clutch (E2's and W427 have them as standard) However while the extra force of the stronger pressure plate overcomes the issue ... it doesn't actually fix the fault.

You only have to remove thecap off the master cylinder and look at the build up of black gunk around the edge to know that there is not enough fluid in the system and it's overheating.

I did my fix in Sept ... and it is still going fine ... keep in mind that if you drill a hole in the pedal arm then try and do a warranty claim when they come up with the fix, they may knock you back. I suspect the lumpy cam and 310rwkw's will be a bigger warranty issue for me than a 1/8" hole in the pedal!!!

 

Standard clutches are crap stick to the floor try these guys
Textralia, Precision Performance

 

I've got a problem with my car, as I go to let the clutch out from idle ionto first gear, it makes a stressing sound, hard to explain, but its while im releasing the clutch. Is my clutch almost dead??

And wow, aftermarket clutch's $1450 FML!

 

The guys I just told you about are building me a clutch for $1300 g/teed to hold 600rwhp give them a call as well if you fry this clutch they can rebuild it at a fraction of the price

 

Is that installed? And do you mean fry the stock clutch or the one they are making?

I dont need 600rwhp out of a clutch, 200rwkw is the most it's ever going to see.

 

I cant complain about the clutch.
Im pushing 450bhp and its still going fine with 37,000 on the clock

 

but be careful if it's an every-day driver ... many performance clutches give you great launches with no slip ... but the constant shudder on take-off can drive you mad in traffic.

The LS7 seems to handle to HP and avoid the shudder.

 

i'd avoid tex clutches for the 6's.

 

Take it to a decent performance shop and get a Xtreme clutch kit fitted. i got my kit for $1200 and CHE charged me $400 to fit. $1600 and no porblems with a bit of abuse. plus drives better then stock.

 

How do you go with shudder in traffic Monaro?

 

no shudder mate as i got the organic plate like i said drives better then stock car is the missus car she loves it. lighter peddle then stock and great engagement.