VE Commodore engine mount replacement

[DavesSV6Tonner]

Stick with GM or Mackay, avoid Kelpro, they are rubbish. I know from 1st hand experience.

 

[syked]

It's a painful job because of the limited access so you really want a good set of tools for this. If removing the plastic guard lining makes the access easier then do it. The top nuts on mine were super tight so I ended up using a rattle gun from the top which wasn't easy either!

Wow!! That would have been a mission
You can barely see the nut from the top

 

[greenacc]

Wow!! That would have been a mission
You can barely see the nut from the top

Your not wrong. Plenty of bad words were used in the undoing of those top nuts.
Had to undo the bolts holding the brackets to the block then jam some wood behind them to hold them far enough out to get the socket on them from above and use a massive Flexi extension made of 2 uni joints and 2 Kong extensions Then I just sat on the rattle gun for a while and let all the ugga duggas do the work!! Awesome improvement with the new mounts in though. So quiet!

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

This job defeated me. The driver's side here has the AC compressor with the big line and the steering pinion and connecting rod in the way of getting a spanner to the top bolt of the mount forward of the mount.

I tried the 3/8 ratchet tricks mentioned from under the car back of it, but the exhaust was in the way.

I though I would just take the whole bracket off like with my VZ, but I couldn't see how to get the top bolt of the bracket off without clearing the AC compressor and hoses out of the way either.

Trust me, it was not for want of trying, I don't like a car to get the better of me.

Far as I can tell I am going to have to let the gas out, move the compressor and lines out of the way, and probably disconnect and move the steering rack.

Am I missing something?

 

[syked]

Maybe easier to remove the exhaust?

Have you tried a bending rachet with just the socket attached (not a deep socket)

Can you lower the subframe half way to give you more room ?

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

Do you mean with the bending ratchet from behind the mount, going in under the exhaust, working under the car? I guess so. I did try that literally for hours. First up when I put my 18mm socket fully on the wrench, it wouldn't go over the nut enough. So I sat the socket on there and just rested the ratchet in the top without clicking it all the way home. I could get a grip, but as I twist I have to keep bending the ratchet down under the exhaust until finally it is bent almost double, at which point it keeps popping out of the socket.

Am I f-ing up the method?

Can you elaborate about the subframe, please?

I have to go get some groceries, but I am all ears cause I will have another crack tomorrow and will read later. Wouldn't even mind going to the tool shop if you send me a picture of the bending ratchet and socket that did it.

Thanks a lot.

 

[syked]

Here in Australia, the right side was actually easier with a normal rachet and small normal depth socket...you have the right idea about not clicking the socket all the way into the rachet.

I can't see from your photo whether the wheel is off but if it isn't, you should take it off. Then sit on your bottom with your legs under the car and approach from the side on an angle and work by touch with your hands.

Regarding the subframe do not attempt unless you have a impact gun or big breaker bar. This video points out how to loosen and lower the subframe.

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

I got a big breaker bar.

Thanks dude. I am gonna try as you say.

 

[syked]

Don't remove the subframe bolts completely otherwise you're going to have a big problem.

You just need to lower it half way

 

[Fu Manchu]

It looks like this is a whole different thing to do with left hand drive.