@Davomac7, if I’m not mistaken, the problem with the factory lsd is that as the clutch packs wear out the side gears move further away from their mating bevel gears. When that gets too extreme, the bear contact patch gets to too small and too close to the top of the gear tooth and then they break.
In older lsd’s housed in solid axles, the same could occur but because you could take the rear diff cover off and get easy access to change the clutch packs as preventative maintenance while the solid axle was still in the vehicle ment people more readily maintained their lsd. But in the VE & VF you’d have to drop the whole diff housing (a time consuming and expensive task as lots of other things also have to be removed for access). Then you’d do the clutch pack change on a bench.
Witch True trac or Harrop, they are both Torsten type diffs which as mentioned means no special lsd diff oil or additives (which is a bonus) and they don’t have clutch plates (so nothing to wear out and no potential broken gears as a result).
But the down side with all Torsten type diffs is that when a wheel comes off the ground, all power goes to that unrestrained wheel and forward drive is lost (though it’s easy to correct by lightly applying the brakes there is no freewheel).
Which is better, Truetrac or Harrop, no idea… but for the road, what I’ve read is either is better than the factory lsd. I’ll be replacing my lsd with Truetrac/Harrop once a ways out of warranty…