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VE door lock actuator

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by HavocNT, Jun 28, 2012.

  1. HavocNT

    HavocNT New Member

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    Drivers side door lock actuator has been playing up lately so have just bought one from spare parts (entire unit).

    Before I book it in to have the stealership replace it.

    Is this easy enough to do myself?

    Could not find it in any searches. But have found the VE door removal in the DIY section.
     
  2. BK Performance Wheels

    BK Performance Wheels New Member

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    Taking the door off requires about 5 phillips head screw 3 on the bottom and 2 on the side of the door. You have one star screw where you door handle is and two phillips head screws at the bottom of the arm rest. once all are out pull the door trim up and off and unclip the 2 wires off the back of the trim at the door handle. Once that is done you have to take the plastic wrap back undo the 3 star screws on the door actuator mechanism on the side of the door and then carefully manuver the actuator around so that the metal bar that runs from the outside door handle down to the actuator comes out. There is also a electrical plug you will need to undo (you might need a torch). then replace with the new one and put everything back were it came from just like lego. ;)
     
  3. HavocNT

    HavocNT New Member

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    thanks. I might try it on the weekend.

    Good excuse to get a set of Torx screwdrivers.
     
  4. HavocNT

    HavocNT New Member

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    That short bar with the hook on the end is a total biatch. Managed to get it off easily enough but to put back on.......

    All good now and have an operation door latch again.

    BTW T25 for the torx screw to the door trim inside the door release handle and a T30 required to take the entire mechanism off the door frame.
     
  5. HavocNT

    HavocNT New Member

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    I was going to take some photos. But the one with the hook pissed me off no end so forgot.
     
  6. brente1982

    brente1982 New Member

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    Just wondering where you got the part from and how much?

    I too am having a problem with mine like alot of other people. Interior light wont come on with drivers door, radio stays on and so do all dash lights.
     
  7. HavocNT

    HavocNT New Member

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    Got it from Holden spare parts.

    Part number for drivers side door = GM-92236016

    Around $223
     
  8. Jode

    Jode New Member

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    VE Door Locks Faulty

    I pretty much agree with removal of lock but have added some detail...""Taking the door off requires about 5 phillips head screw 3 on the bottom and 2 on the side of the door. (Some only have the two philips at the bottom) You have one star screw where your door handle is (underneath the little square plastic cover that has to be removed first), ( you can use a blade screwdriver to get these) and two phillips head screws at the bottom of the arm rest. Once all are out (grab the door pocket and pull the door trim OUT to disconnet clips then) pull the door trim up and off. Unclip the 2 CABLES (one for the lock button and one for the door lever) and lift the metal ball and cables off. Unclip the electrical connector for the elec window. Take the trim completely offf and put to one side. Once that is done you have to take the (peel back) the plastic wrap. Undo the 3 star screws on the door actuator mechanism on the side (end) of the door and then carefully manuver the actuator around so that the metal bar that runs from the outside door handle down to the actuator comes out. You will need to unclip that plastic connector that goes arounbd that metal bar. It splits in half then snaps back when you come to reinstall it. There is also an electrical plug on the locking mechanism. (Lift the red bar UP then withdraw the connector out sideways). you will need to undo (you might need a torch). (You may need to unstick the foam under the window runner before you can drag the lock mechanism down and out the whole at the bottom fo the door) then replace with the new one and put everything back were it came from just like lego. make sure you put the foam back under the window runner AND when you come to replace the trim, locate the pegs on the door first. No need to hook it over at the top as it will self locate. Give it a sharp slap with your hand and door trim will pop into place. Restore all screws and rememebr to stick plastic back to stop air wind and rain entering car ( You can actually open the door lock mechanism on a bench. There are 5 philips screws to undo. Nothing falls out. You will find that when they made it they have grease inside it to grease the leavers. The idiots either haven't used enough grease or it has worn off. It seems to go into little balls so I would say it is the wrong grease and is subject to cold temperatures. You can put in more grease and grease the levers and save yourself $135 for a new lock. Note, the locks are specific to not only VE but the type of VE and when it was built because they are ALL different locks. Provide your year month to the stealership and whether it is My09, My08 etc.
     
  9. Stu

    Stu New Member

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    I have a similar problem with my VE SV6 (2007) but instead of the driver's side door, I have a problem with the other 3 doors. When I hit the remote to unlock, the driver's side door unlocks no problems but the other doors take a few more presses to unlock. And this is not a 2-stage unlock problem - even when set to single stage unlock, I still have this problem. After i hit lock, unlock, lock, unlock a few times, all the locks unlock and lock with a single press of the button. But it takes a few goes for all the doors to work. Does anyone know what the problem could be here? Is it likely that 3 actuators have all crapped themselves at once? If there is indeed some crappy grease in the actuators like Jode ^ has mentioned, then i guess it could make sense that the old, crapped out grease needs to warm a bit to let the actuators work (it's cold here in Adelaide at the moment) but this seems unlikely to me. My battery is due to be replaced, could this be an issue? Is it not delivering enough charge to the actuators? But why would it not affect all the doors?
     
  10. Slick6

    Slick6 New Member

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    I had the same issue as your Stu not long after I got it new.

    Being one of the first to do it, it spent months in and out of the dealer trying to fix it but more understand why it was doing it so they could learn from it for others that could come in.

    After new harnesses, modules, batteries, switches and a range of other items the only solution was new actuators. After the 3 were fixed my drivers died just out of warranty but was replaced no problems.
     
  11. Stu

    Stu New Member

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    How have they been since replacement? I'm not in warranty so this sounds like it will be expensive.
     
  12. Slick6

    Slick6 New Member

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    They haven't failed since they were replaced and that was around aug 2010.

    Mines a 2007 model and I know another guy who had a similar issue that was resolved with an actuator replacement under warranty.

    Maybe do one and see how you go.
     
  13. Stu

    Stu New Member

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    Thanks dude. One at a time sounds like a good idea.
     
  14. Stu

    Stu New Member

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    Just an update. I had my car's battery replaced and the problem has completely gone away. The old battery must not have been delivering enough juice to the actuators for them to work properly. Now with a new one, they all work in perfect unison.

    Quite relieved as a $200 battery is way cheaper then 3 actuators. :D
     
  15. Ebird

    Ebird New Member

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    I'm not sure if this is where I ask a related question. VE 2007 Calais. Both interior and exterior driver's door manual handles are feeling as if they are barely engaging the latch itself. It "feels" like a fraying cable or stretched cable ( progressively worsening feeling like it is now barely engaging).but when I watch the video of an actuator change, I am doubting that the cable/s are the problem. Anyone got any similar experience? I don't want to wait until I can't get in or out of the car but need to know what the problem is to get correct part in advance.
     
  16. Benzito

    Benzito New Member

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    Ebird, pull the trim off the door as was described above and see if you can spot anything that doesn't look right when you are pulling the exterior handle. If something is worn or not moving properly it may be obvious.
    (On a side note I find this thread worrying. I've had a BA Falcon for the past 7 years and have replaced all 4 door lock actuators in that time, one of them twice, so I was hoping I might not have these problems switching over to Holden:doh:)
     
  17. Aquarius

    Aquarius New Member

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    Just replaced the driver's door actuator myself. Might be worth noting that the actuator can be pulled through the hole in the door while still connected to the door lock rod. Makes disconnection of the rod from the actuator much easier than trying to do this with the whole lot still inside the door skin. Same applies to reconnecting the new actuator. Do the lock rod first with the actuator outside the door. Then maneuver the lock assembly into the door, connect the cables to the interior handle and lock tab then plug in the electrical connector and finally screw the lock assembly in place. When it's in position, connect the second rod which comes from the exterior door handle using the plastic clip.

    http://imgur.com/a/RryHA

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
    lmoengnr, MYVESSV8 and brucenz like this.
  18. Parg

    Parg New Member

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    Hey guys,
    First time posting but wanted to contribute after this thread helped me out of this frustrating situation.
    I personally went on ebay and bought a tested and guaranteed door actuator from a wrecker for $50.

    Note: Before I started I disconnected the battery... Probably unnecessary but didn't want to risk it.

    The door trim was easy enough to remove... 5 Phillips head screws around the perimeter, one Phillips head under the arm rest and a torx screw hidden behind a small plastic cover where the interior door latch is.

    Carefully pop the trim along the bottom of the door (gently use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the lugs in the trim free) and pull door up and off.

    The trim will be attached to the door by the two wire cables from the latch to the door actuator I recommend taking a photo of these connected to the latch and remove the trim out of the way because it's annoying.

    Peel the plastic back near the actuator.

    Unclip the plastic clip holding the rod to the actuator.

    Take a photo of the two wire cables connected to the actuator and then remove by awkwardly pulling the wire out and around in an s shaped movement (the wire cable ends are shaped like an S)

    Remove the 3 torx screws holding the actuator to the door and pull the actuator out so you can see it.

    Remove the wiring loom by gently sliding a flat blade screwdriver between the red plastic clip and the black plastic body (see photo). The red clip will gradually slide upwards away from the body and the wiring loom will disconnect from the actuator.

    Now twist the actuator around to get at the exterior door latch rod. This is awkward and takes a bit of fiddling to twist it off.

    Remove the actuator from the car and replace with the new one. Follow the steps above in reverse to install.

    I've attached photos of the key components to give you an idea.

    Hope this helps someone.
     
    mantaray56 likes this.
  19. MYVESSV8

    MYVESSV8 Well-Known Member

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    There is a video on youtube how to do it
     
  20. AJS000

    AJS000 Member

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    My right rear door cables have unclipped from the handle and the door is shut. Can't open from inside or out. Lock doesn't move with central locking etc.

    How the F can I get it open again?
     

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