VE HSV 2006 Clubsport R8 crank no start.

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Hey guys any one know what else could be happening here??

Things I have done already, new leads and plugs, new alternator, new fuel pump, Charged battery. Everything correctly put back the same way it all came out.

(I also have new abs sensors coming as well sometime next week, but I don't think that could rectify the problem, I could be wrong??) I might also get new batteries for my keys

Also when I, use a V8 specified jump starter, it will crank but won't start until both, battery and rechargeable jump starter.

All dash lights go off when trying to start it, yet battery and jumper are full?? Hooked a code scanner up to it but can't start the car to find out more details.

Car fired up on day and then suddenly went out, then I did the above things, now I'm looking for anyone that has has this problem or could know what the possible problem could be, bad/worn ground/earth wire?? I don't know things ROUGHLY checked over 3 time, looks good cable/wire wise??

 

[BlackVXGTS]

Is this a stolen car?

You don't need to start the car to get codes, you only have to have the ignition on!

When has it actually run (and started) perfectly? What happened in the meantime?

 

[bailzski]

Hey guys any one know what else could be happening here??

Things I have done already, new leads and plugs, new alternator, new fuel pump, Charged battery. Everything correctly put back the same way it all came out.

(I also have new abs sensors coming as well sometime next week, but I don't think that could rectify the problem, I could be wrong??) I might also get new batteries for my keys

Also when I, use a V8 specified jump starter, it will crank but won't start until both, battery and rechargeable jump starter.

All dash lights go off when trying to start it, yet battery and jumper are full?? Hooked a code scanner up to it but can't start the car to find out more details.

Car fired up on day and then suddenly went out, then I did the above things, now I'm looking for anyone that has has this problem or could know what the possible problem could be, bad/worn ground/earth wire?? I don't know things ROUGHLY checked over 3 time, looks good cable/wire wise??

Do you have a spare car key? I had an issue with my VE last year where the battery in my key fob had enough to unlock and lock the car but not enough to make contact in my ignition. New battery and it started first go

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Is this a stolen car?

You don't need to start the car to get codes, you only have to have the ignition on!

When has it actually run (and started) perfectly? What happened in the meantime?

Ahaha no not stolen.

And was running fine, until the battery went dead, I changed the alternator 1st, then the fuel pump, leads and spark?

Full charged battery with jumper pack still won't start, just a lag in cranking, as if not enough power were getting through?? Dash lights go in and out to the point where there is nothing again as if the battery were dead??

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Do you have a spare car key? I had an issue with my VE last year where the battery in my key fob had enough to unlock and lock the car but not enough to make contact in my ignition. New battery and it started first go

I'll be sure to look into that for both original and spare keys,

What symptoms where you having at the time?

My sysmtoms are:

# slow cranking starter, with full battery and jump starter pack

#dashboard and lights flick completely off when trying to start as if battery were completely flat?

# not a fast cranking starter motor, lags power

 

[Dylan kingswood]

Id start with a new battery and report back

 

[Skylarking]

Modern cars have lots of electronics within which means voltage spikes can cause problems (=kill modules) which is why jump starters, especially older non protected jump starters, generally aren’t a great idea. Hopefully some module hasn’t pooped itself because of such…

When experiencing a flat battery it’s always better to disconnect the flat battery and fully charge it before doing a load test to determine that the battery is ok. If it’s ok reconnect the battery (though there is always a spark risk and with that a voltage spike) and go from there. If the load test showed the battery is porked, replace it.

As mentioned by others, checking the trouble codes can be done without the engine running and should give you a good idea what the car thinks is wrong. Just remember DTC provide a start point for the diagnostics process and not a pointer to what needs to be changes (=parts cannon approach).

As for the alternator, these smart cars require a smart alternator so you have to ensure the correct replacement is installed for it to correctly charge the battery But I’d assume a wrong alternator shouldn’t stop the car from starting, just won’t charge the battery.

For me the real issue is why did you change the parts you changed? Did you measure fuel pressure at the fuel rail and check fuel volume that can deliver before changing fuel pump? Did you just assume folate battery = stuffed alternator?

For me the real issue is whether the correct voltage is getting to all the modules so I’d be checking the voltage distribution circuit diagram and deciphering how voltage is sent around the car; when accessories is selected, when run is selected and when start is selected. Then checking the voltage at the modules at ACC, IGN & START. By doing that you’ll check that each module has the correct voltage (and ground) at the correct times. Then fix any deficiencies you see before checking all DTC for all modules (=require a quality service tool, not a $30 diagnostic reader).

Also never discount start problems after filling up the tank with new fuel. Picking up bad fuel only to see the car not start the next day after a short drive back home isn’t unheard of.

Sadly, instrument cluster going black is a voltage problem which may be earth related or bad BCM related. Needs to be diagnosed in a methodical manner.

Best search the forum as there is a link to the VE factory service manual and then spend some time learning the document and where the info is and how to diagnose issues. It’s one of the better resources for self help and far better than trowing parts at it.

 

[bailzski]

I'll be sure to look into that for both original and spare keys,

What symptoms where you having at the time?

My sysmtoms are:

# slow cranking starter, with full battery and jump starter pack

#dashboard and lights flick completely off when trying to start as if battery were completely flat?

# not a fast cranking starter motor, lags power

I was getting a single click when attempting to start with my dodgy key, the dash lights would also go out as I attempted to crank but I think that was also due to lack of power attempting to start multiple times throughout the day

 

[Skylarking]

VE workshop manual link at rucxy’s post here.

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Modern cars have lots of electronics within which means voltage spikes can cause problems (=kill modules) which is why jump starters, especially older non protected jump starters, generally aren’t a great idea. Hopefully some module hasn’t pooped itself because of such…

When experiencing a flat battery it’s always better to disconnect the flat battery and fully charge it before doing a load test to determine that the battery is ok. If it’s ok reconnect the battery (though there is always a spark risk and with that a voltage spike) and go from there. If the load test showed the battery is porked, replace it.

As mentioned by others, checking the trouble codes can be done without the engine running and should give you a good idea what the car thinks is wrong. Just remember DTC provide a start point for the diagnostics process and not a pointer to what needs to be changes (=parts cannon approach).

As for the alternator, these smart cars require a smart alternator so you have to ensure the correct replacement is installed for it to correctly charge the battery But I’d assume a wrong alternator shouldn’t stop the car from starting, just won’t charge the battery.

For me the real issue is why did you change the parts you changed? Did you measure fuel pressure at the fuel rail and check fuel volume that can deliver before changing fuel pump? Did you just assume folate battery = stuffed alternator?

For me the real issue is whether the correct voltage is getting to all the modules so I’d be checking the voltage distribution circuit diagram and deciphering how voltage is sent around the car; when accessories is selected, when run is selected and when start is selected. Then checking the voltage at the modules at ACC, IGN & START. By doing that you’ll check that each module has the correct voltage (and ground) at the correct times. Then fix any deficiencies you see before checking all DTC for all modules (=require a quality service tool, not a $30 diagnostic reader).

Also never discount start problems after filling up the tank with new fuel. Picking up bad fuel only to see the car not start the next day after a short drive back home isn’t unheard of.

Sadly, instrument cluster going black is a voltage problem which may be earth related or bad BCM related. Needs to be diagnosed in a methodical manner.

Best search the forum as there is a link to the VE factory service manual and then spend some time learning the document and where the info is and how to diagnose issues. It’s one of the better resources for self help and far better than trowing parts at it.

I changed the alternator, plugs and leads, fuel pump, because I though they were the problem.

Also no fuel pressure was in the rail before and after change, as if no power were getting to the new pump or old pump.

A few codes come up, i have checked fuses they are fine, check out relays "visually", not tested, I have been using the thinkscan plus code reader, $200 cost. Even when I hook it up it says not enough voltage even with a fully charged battery.

I dont know if it's electrical, problem or battery, earth/ground problem locations

I dont know what could cause a sluggish crank no start, no fuel in rail before and after changing, full battery with jumper when battery drains or low voltage (is the only time I use the jumper!!)

Also if it was the bcm what are those sysmtoms, and why all of a sudden would this work one day and not the next. Also VE's don't have fuel "filters" if they don't I don't know where it's location is outside of the fuel tank?