VE HSV 2006 Clubsport R8 crank no start.

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

I was getting a single click when attempting to start with my dodgy key, the dash lights would also go out as I attempted to crank but I think that was also due to lack of power attempting to start multiple times throughout the day

Hopefully this is the cause and easy fix.

What symptoms where you having "prior" to the key going out if any at all??

I have a few now that I think about it, that make me want to look into this

 

[bailzski]

Hopefully this is the cause and easy fix.

What symptoms where you having "prior" to the key going out if any at all??

I have a few now that I think about it, that make me want to look into this

Only thing was not being able to start the car 99% of the time, and continuous tried caused a rear parker globe to blow but that’s about it. Hope you get it sorted

 

[Skylarking]

The fuel pump comes an integrated internal fuel filter

Some early VE’s had a fuel pump access hatch under the rear seat. If you’re lucky enough to have one with an access hatch then you can remove the rear seat and take the access hatch off to get to the fuel pump and fuel pump connector. With such access to the connector you’ll be able to easily jump a solid +12v and -ve directly to a battery and then check fuel rail pressure. If you get fuel rail pressure then the fault is that the pump isn’t commanded to go on so you’d fault find that issue. If the connector is faulty and burnt, just replace it and problem solved. If you don’t have such a fuel pump access hatch under the rear seat you’ll have to drop the tank which just makes it a PITA.

As you’ve changed the fuel pump you’d know the issue with access to pump and wiring but if you haven’t tested it directly, don’t discount a DOA new fuel pump.

Now if your battery voltage is low, go old school and remove the battery terminals and clean the inside of the clamps on the leads using a battery post cleaner or emery cloth and do the same for the posts on the battery themselves. Make them nice and shiny and then reconnect the battery leads and hopefully that will clear up dodgy battery voltages.

And as already mentioned, charge and then load test your battery to ensure it’s working within specs and if not replace it with a nice new battery. And as your getting some voltage, it’s not the fusible links at the battery

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Only thing was not being able to start the car 99% of the time, and continuous tried caused a rear parker globe to blow but that’s about it. Hope you get it sorted

VE workshop manual link at rucxy’s post here.

The fuel pump comes an integrated internal fuel filter

Some early VE’s had a fuel pump access hatch under the rear seat. If you’re lucky enough to have one with an access hatch then you can remove the rear seat and take the access hatch off to get to the fuel pump and fuel pump connector. With such access to the connector you’ll be able to easily jump a solid +12v and -ve directly to a battery and then check fuel rail pressure. If you get fuel rail pressure then the fault is that the pump isn’t commanded to go on so you’d fault find that issue. If the connector is faulty and burnt, just replace it and problem solved. If you don’t have such a fuel pump access hatch under the rear seat you’ll have to drop the tank which just makes it a PITA.

As you’ve changed the fuel pump you’d know the issue with access to pump and wiring but if you haven’t tested it directly, don’t discount a DOA new fuel pump.

Now if your battery voltage is low, go old school and remove the battery terminals and clean the inside of the clamps on the leads using a battery post cleaner or emery cloth and do the same for the posts on the battery themselves. Make them nice and shiny and then reconnect the battery leads and hopefully that will clear up dodgy battery voltages.

And as already mentioned, charge and then load test your battery to ensure it’s working within specs and if not replace it with a nice new battery. And as your getting some voltage, it’s not the fusible links at the battery

Yeah nah unfortunately I don't have that luxury of going through the back seats,

I'll be sure to do the old school clean up tomorrow to make sure although I did use a neighbours (v6 battery) to see if that was the problem and if i needed to buy a new one, but wouldn't start with his battery as well, hopefully old school will do the trick when I clean the V8 battery and terminals/wires etc

Thanks for now guys, I'll definitely keep you guys updated as I find stuff and/or make progress, also I was due to make changes on the parts I have already installed, so process of elimination as I go

 

[07GTS]

Yeah nah unfortunately I don't have that luxury of going through the back seats,

u sure as my 2007 GTS does ? it will be glued down and look like the floor

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

u sure as my 2007 GTS does ? it will be glued down and look like the floor

Yea pretty sure mine is 2006 model, rather then take the cradle out I let it hang to give myself alot more room, changed it over that way.

I also come out 7 this morning to do the old school clean up, (the battery terminals on the battery it's self,) and came across a substance that seems as though the postive side of the battery terminal seems as though it's been hit with a welding stick like substance, after cleaning

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Yea pretty sure mine is 2006 model, rather then take the cradle out I let it hang to give myself alot more room, changed it over that way.

I also come out 7 this morning to do the old school clean up, (the battery terminals on the battery it's self,) and came across a substance that seems as though the postive side of the battery terminal seems as though it's been hit with a welding stick like substance, after cleaning

I put a new battery in this morning normal voltages all over, now only 2 codes are coming up compared to the 7 codes "when battery" had low volts, thank goodness it's only 2 codes:

P0633-04
C0569-03

 

[Jeda]

Yea pretty sure mine is 2006 model, rather then take the cradle out I let it hang to give myself alot more room, changed it over that way.

I reckon 07GTS is saying that if his 07 model GTS has the access port under the back seat, the 2006 model will have it too.

 

[Skylarking]

I also come out 7 this morning to do the old school clean up, (the battery terminals on the battery it's self,) and came across a substance that seems as though the postive side of the battery terminal seems as though it's been hit with a welding stick like substance, after cleaning

Great that an old school clean highlighted what was probably the main problem and a new battery seems to have fixed the flood of DTC’s

The problem with the battery post was probably caused by corrosion which usually shows up as hard white crusty stuff (lead corrosion) and/or green powdery stuff (copper corrosion). Corrosion impedes good conduction and can result in low voltage at modules which can then cause start issues and DTC’s, especially if the car can’t start or the alternator doesn’t charge.

If you have lots of green crusty’s, you may have to more thoroughly check the battery leads as the copper under the insulation may be borked and also cause intermittent problems.

I put a new battery in this morning normal voltages all over, now only 2 codes are coming up compared to the 7 codes "when battery" had low volts, thank goodness it's only 2 codes:

P0633-04
C0569-03

Not sure of the specifics for your car but the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0633 is a generic OBDII code that stands for “Immobilizer Key not Programmed – ECM/PCM.”

It means that the key you are using isn’t programmed to the vehicle (as the vehicle sees it). That could be because a fault exists with the key itself (so I’d always change the keys coin battery as a first step, note: dropping them can sometimes cause issues as these keys aren mil-spec items) or a fault exists with the wiring of the immobiliser system or one of the anti theft modules itself (I’d first try another key if you have one before jumping into detailed diagnosis).

If a key fob battery change or your other key doesn’t work then you'd have to look at and diagnose the anti theft system which I’ve never done. If you’ve replaced the ECU or other modules in the security chain, these need to be correctly programmed before your keys will work and start the car but as you’ve not indicated you’ve changed such components this shouldn’t be your problem .… though voltage spikes and even cosmic radiation can cause odd faults with electronics, so who knows …

In some older commodores the issue was often the key code reader ring around the steering wheel key slot but I don’t think your car used such an old system and the key reader may be elsewhere… No doubt others who play with security systems will chime in. The workshop manual will define a diagnostics process to resolve this code.

From the www, the C0569 is also a generic OBDII DTC which indicates Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction. Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction and Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control 'A' High (Cam/Rotor/Injector). The GM code and the later parameter may provide more specifics but as the code reports a sensor fault, replacement of the sensor is unlikely to resolve the underlying problem. The engine error is most likely to be caused by the systems that the sensor is monitoring, but might even be caused by the wiring to the sensor itself. So the workshop manual will have a diagnostic strategy for this code... as you’ve changed the fuel pump, maybe some wiring, nearby sensor or module was disturbed?

But the question is does your car now crank and run with only these 2 DTCs being current? Do they come back if cleared?

 

[VE R8 clubsport 2006]

Great that an old school clean highlighted what was probably the main problem and a new battery seems to have fixed the flood of DTC’s

The problem with the battery post was probably caused by corrosion which usually shows up as hard white crusty stuff (lead corrosion) and/or green powdery stuff (copper corrosion). Corrosion impedes good conduction and can result in low voltage at modules which can then cause start issues and DTC’s, especially if the car can’t start or the alternator doesn’t charge.

If you have lots of green crusty’s, you may have to more thoroughly check the battery leads as the copper under the insulation may be borked and also cause intermittent problems.

Not sure of the specifics for your car but the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0633 is a generic OBDII code that stands for “Immobilizer Key not Programmed – ECM/PCM.”

It means that the key you are using isn’t programmed to the vehicle (as the vehicle sees it). That could be because a fault exists with the key itself (so I’d always change the keys coin battery as a first step, note: dropping them can sometimes cause issues as these keys aren mil-spec items) or a fault exists with the wiring of the immobiliser system or one of the anti theft modules itself (I’d first try another key if you have one before jumping into detailed diagnosis).

If a key fob battery change or your other key doesn’t work then you'd have to look at and diagnose the anti theft system which I’ve never done. If you’ve replaced the ECU or other modules in the security chain, these need to be correctly programmed before your keys will work and start the car but as you’ve not indicated you’ve changed such components this shouldn’t be your problem .… though voltage spikes and even cosmic radiation can cause odd faults with electronics, so who knows …

In some older commodores the issue was often the key code reader ring around the steering wheel key slot but I don’t think your car used such an old system and the key reader may be elsewhere… No doubt others who play with security systems will chime in. The workshop manual will define a diagnostics process to resolve this code.

From the www, the C0569 is also a generic OBDII DTC which indicates Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction. Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction and Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control 'A' High (Cam/Rotor/Injector). The GM code and the later parameter may provide more specifics but as the code reports a sensor fault, replacement of the sensor is unlikely to resolve the underlying problem. The engine error is most likely to be caused by the systems that the sensor is monitoring, but might even be caused by the wiring to the sensor itself. So the workshop manual will have a diagnostic strategy for this code... as you’ve changed the fuel pump, maybe some wiring, nearby sensor or module was disturbed?

But the question is does your car now crank and run with only these 2 DTCs being current? Do they come back if cleared?

Abs code is cleared got new sensors coming for that minor issue!! But he key code still comes back once cleared, car now has a powerful kick but wont start battery volts remain the same once car kicks but not start, still no pressure in fuel rail after changing out??

I also triple checked all sensors and wires prior and post changing of the fuel pump, as if not fuel where getting thru yet no codes relating to the fuel pump or system whatsoever.

And I've checked my terminal wires all seem good, only thing that was really no good was the positive terminal wire in the boot that had corrosion on it, I've already replaced them terminal "connections".

Now I just have the one code showing, but I bought a brand new key battery last year, and I'm in the process right now of putting the new battery in with the original car key and taking the new battery out of the new spare key to see if that works, or eliminate another process..