VE HVAC 2009 - How to replace recirc door flap?

[actionmanmelb]

Hi all, I am new here. I am having a problem with a 2009 VE manual HVAC system. It was stuck on recirc no matter what you did with the switch, and the windows would fog up all the time. As well the vent temp was always higher than ambient with the A/C off.

I decided to tackle the problem yesterday and trawled the net and this forum. Found some good info but not exactly what I need.

First thing I then tried was the "hold the demist button to do a flap motor recal", this resulted in full heat all the time. Worse than before!

I then removed the covers from the left and right sides of the dash. I then did another flap recal to observe the motion of the servo's. The floor face and the screen/demist were working, but the temp control and the recirc servo's weren't moving

Then I borrowed a friends scan tool and got two codes - B0228 and B0418. I cleared the codes, but they returned immediately.

I bought a new servo motor (P/N 92192343 - $15). All four servos are the same part and can be interchanged. I the swapped the heat control servo with the new one and when tested found that it would move but then stop in a default position of full heat.

I then swapped out the fresh/recirc servo and re-tested with the same results. By this time I figured the control unit was suspect as the fault codes would not erase even with the new servo.

I then bought a new control unit and after installation and doing a re-learn I could hear a faint whirring coming from the fresh/recirc door servo.... it was continuously running.

I then removed the blower to look at the recirc/fresh door, which by the way took some finding, as I could not see the wood for the trees! The door is right in front of the blower hole but looks like part of the blower housing.

When I moved the door by hand I realised that there was no connection to the servo motor.

So after all that........how do you replace the recirc/fresh door flap?? Please don't say it's a dash out job.:boxing:

 

[MYVESSV8]

showing an actuator but no arm on the pics ive got, looks like the airbox assy is screwed to the fan assy

 

[bails66]

Same Problem Here

Hey actionmanmelb, Did you find a resolution for this problem. I have the same issue with the cold/hot mixer actuator. If I take it off and let it hang loose it does 3 movements when I re-teach using the demist button. If I bolt it back on to the flaps it moves to the hot position and stays there.

For me this all started after I replaced the actuator on the top right driver side, it had the well known clicking problem that has been posted about before. That one now works fine, but since then the air mixture actuator does not work. I am wondering if there is some sort of mechanical link between the 2 and I've buggered something when I changed the driver side actuator.

Does anyone know what the re-teach does? Is it looking to find a sensor/switch at each end of travel of the flap or does it just rely on actuator current feedback to know when it has come to the end of its stroke?

 

[gdunkley84]

Hey actionmanmelb, Did you find a resolution for this problem. I have the same issue with the cold/hot mixer actuator. If I take it off and let it hang loose it does 3 movements when I re-teach using the demist button. If I bolt it back on to the flaps it moves to the hot position and stays there.

For me this all started after I replaced the actuator on the top right driver side, it had the well known clicking problem that has been posted about before. That one now works fine, but since then the air mixture actuator does not work. I am wondering if there is some sort of mechanical link between the 2 and I've buggered something when I changed the driver side actuator.

Does anyone know what the re-teach does? Is it looking to find a sensor/switch at each end of travel of the flap or does it just rely on actuator current feedback to know when it has come to the end of its stroke?

Same problem here. Did you find any ideas. I'm thinking whole dash out job.

 

[Stimpy]

This can be done without removing the dash, had the same problem and fixed it.
If you have some smarts about you, remove the glove box unhook fan wirers and remove fan and disconnect the actuators then remove HVAC module, were you see the square hole for the HVAC module you need to cut from the centre of the hole completely in half.
Once you remove the left side of the fan box pull apart and you will find the door brocken.
Remove the door this can be turned around but you must repair the broken end, this will become the pivot end easily done and put a small bolt and glue.
Put back together to support the cut section use black silicone and 2 inch strip of 1mm stainless and rivot back in place.
Make sure put back half in first then the front section.

 

[bob builder]

so i was lucky enough to have two sons that jumped in to solve this for me, followed the vague instructions above and it worked, sh!tty job at best but it worked and a lot quicker than removing all the dash, i have a couple of pictures that might assist anyone wishing to jump in and have a crack.
I forgot to take any pics of the actual flap repair but description above is correct and to repair the opposite end that had crumbled, drilled end out, found some hard plastic spacers from a tv wall mount kit did the trick beautifully after a run on a grinding wheel with a bolt and nut. also note in the pics below there is one bolt (Picture 6)in the firewall to remove, you get to it by lifting the plastic above the (so called) fresh air filter which is fly mesh at best. Sikaflex 227 is your friend. also worth testing the door function and doing a relearn before completing reassembly of everything, once the door is installed you can plug fan, hvac module and seat (if you removed seat) back in and test.

 

[J_D 2.0]

Looks like I’m up for this cnut of a job on the SSV. System started putting itself on hot air on the passenger side a couple of months ago. Finally got around to investigating it and all the servos were ok but the recirc flap is broken.

I don’t really want to destroy the ducting to repair it nor remove the whole dash. Wondering if I can just prop the door open to fresh air and somehow fool the HVAC system into not being a cnut and putting the heater on.

 

[J_D 2.0]

So the dead shits who designed the flap door (and the whole HVAC system) should have put a metal collar around the gear splines that the actuators go into. There’s SFA meat around the outside edge of the star spline and it’s basically made to shatter.

 

[J_D 2.0]

Here’s how to do the job properly for anyone else that needs to know. Looks like I’m replacing the A/C evaporator as well while I’m there. If I’m going to that much effort I might as well replace it so I don’t have to go in again.

My A/C is stinky when you first turn it on anyway so the evaporator needed a clean anyway. For the cost of the evaporator I might as well replace it then it’s done.

https://www.4blok.com.au/ve-air-conditioner-cooling-core-genuine-ag103464-m

 

[Fu Manchu]

Here’s how to do the job properly for anyone else that needs to know. Looks like I’m replacing the A/C evaporator as well while I’m there. If I’m going to that much effort I might as well replace it so I don’t have to go in again.

My A/C is stinky when you first turn it on anyway so the evaporator needed a clean anyway. For the cost of the evaporator I might as well replace it then it’s done.

https://www.4blok.com.au/ve-air-conditioner-cooling-core-genuine-ag103464-m

Go through some of my old VE threads. I did the job.
Don’t use a Jayair evaporator. They don’t fit. Buy genuine and the cost the same.